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TX200 Break-in

I bought a new Air Arms TX200 in .177 caliber. Out of the box, it shot 13.7 fpe and rather snappy. I decided to install a Vortek 12 fpe kit to calm it down. When I first installed the kit, it shot 13.2 fpe. Not the results I desired, so, per Vortek's instructions, I cut a coil off the spring because it said I would get a 1.5 fpe reduction. Wellllll, no. It now shoots 12.6 fpe. I know I can take it apart and cut more off the spring, but it's rather annoying to do so. The gun really isn't broken in, per se. I have about 300 shots through it. The last 5 shots over the crhronograph gave 16 fps velocity spread and 5.6 SD. Am I expecting too much at this point? What is your experience in tuning these guns?
 
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Just installed will shoot strong untill it all settles in. You may see fresh ( example sake). 980 fps then as you go youll see it drop a bit say 950 , ,920 then settle at 900.

Dont know how many shots your allowing for that breakin but if you jump the gun too fast you may be saying oops cutting the spring .. im no pro tuner but just in opinion
 
I am not a pro-tuner but have worked on a few rifles. In my experience Vortek kits use stout springs. The shot cycle is snappier but without twang. The 12 fpe kits in .177 produce slightly above that level.
With the ARH UK 12fpe kits I've tried Krytox a couple of times and the shot cycle seems quicker compared to moly and tar lubricants. An option might be to coat the spring in heavy tar to dampen vibration. This might lower the velocity closer to where you want.
Another option is to add a short stroke spacer on the piston head. I tried the Tinbum delrin spacer in a couple of my rifles. These reduce lock time and can drop the velocity a little.
 
A tighter fit seal will bogg / slow one down. Last tune i just added a hand full of seals in extra of a order and over the year i try one / new fit seal . I got a lot of mixed results from excellent to i dont know about that one... Next... I index each ones results but . The one in now i dont see getting better . Well satisfied.. a better leave that one alone thing..

That tuning is a just do it . Only right or wrong is your own personal satisfaction on any one done..
 
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I bought a new Air Arms TX200 in .177 caliber. Out of the box, it shot 13.7 fpe and rather snappy. I decided to install a Vortek 12 fpe kit to calm it down. When I first installed the kit, it shot 13.2 fpe. Not the results I desired, so, per Vortek's instructions, I cut a coil off the spring because it said I would get a 1.5 fpe reduction. Wellllll, no. It now shoots 12.6 fpe. I know I can take it apart and cut more off the spring, but it's rather annoying to do so. The gun really isn't broken in, per se. I have about 300 shots through it. The last 5 shots over the crhronograph gave 16 fps velocity spread and 5.6 SD. Am I expecting too much at this point? What is your experience in tuning these guns?
If you have the time, I would go conservative and just shoot another 1.5 to 2 tins. Then chrono the gun (as suggested above, plus your Vortek piston seal may take some time to break in).

I know it's annoying to tear the gun apart again. But, the other option if you don't have time, (I had to get under 12FPE for WFTF competition, within 2 weeks, so I needed a fairly stable/consistent shooting platform fast), I went with the "heat and collapse 1-2 coil option". Mine was a Tony Leach set up. I think it would also work with any spring including Vortek.

In my limited experience, it's easier for me (a home tuner) to tweak that last 0.2-0.75 FPE with heating and collapsing coils. My experience with cutting coils are either I'm too close and still just a tad over 12 FPE or I'm around 10 FPE (I can't seem to hit that sweet spot between 11.5 -11.75 FPE when I'm cutting coils). Another advantage for me with heating, I cheated and heated the spring twice to get below 12 FPE (I know repeated heating can compromise the strength/ brittleness of the metal...so far, knock on wood, no spring breakage...)
Edit: you could add washers to bring your FPE back up if you cut too many coils.

As a general rule, I would focus more on accuracy (shooting quality pellets, managing the snappy recoil) vs velocity. The only reasons I chrono my guns are to ensure I'm under 11.75FPE (for WFTF competition) and/or if my accuracy/group size is down in the dumps..
 
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Totally agree, bought my TX200 about 6 months ago and about 300 pellets shots. still work full time so not as much range time as I wold like. This gun shot great out of the box once I found the right pellets. I have the Vortek HO kit but not touching anything until 1000 shots plus and may never modify at all.
Not sure makes a difference but mine is in .22 and can shoot 1" groups at 50 yards. My feeling is, for what these guns cost, unless a perfectionist or competition shooter, shouldn't need more that TLC
 
I have a couple of TXs, and changed the internals for a sleeveless piston from a guy called Tony Leech in the UK. I have run both 21mm and 22mm versions and they are superb at about 10.5 ft.lbs.

The top piston is his work, the bottom two have TBT nose extensions. All have delrin guides replacing the AA metal stuff.

B1C2ACFB-D0FD-4D6C-9B72-755C4E16EC5C.jpeg


My rifles…

11189562-734E-46DD-B83D-00569D1124CF.jpeg
 
I am retired so I have the time to shoot about a tin of 500 per week, or more. I have had 3 replacement springs in my TX200. I chrono about one time after each spring settles in. I shoot benchrest in a league and in a monthly match at both 10 and 20 meters. Although there is a definite correlation between fps and pellet weight for accuracy I have no interest in fps per se. What I have learned is it take 1000 shots minimum to let the spring settle in , maybe closer 1500. I can see it in group size and also consistency. I shoot a lot of group's at 25 yards at notebook paper reinforcement rings. When 5 shot group after group starts repeating in the .250 center I know the spring has reached a happy spot. This is when I will crony to see where is settled in at.
 
I have a couple of TXs, and changed the internals for a sleeveless piston from a guy called Tony Leech in the UK. I have run both 21mm and 22mm versions and they are superb at about 10.5 ft.lbs.

The top piston is his work, the bottom two have TBT nose extensions. All have delrin guides replacing the AA metal stuff.

View attachment 342139

My rifles…

View attachment 342138
Sweet rifles! I really like the TL piston
 
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I bought a new Air Arms TX200 in .177 caliber. Out of the box, it shot 13.7 fpe and rather snappy. I decided to install a Vortek 12 fpe kit to calm it down. When I first installed the kit, it shot 13.2 fpe. Not the results I desired, so, per Vortek's instructions, I cut a coil off the spring because it said I would get a 1.5 fpe reduction. Wellllll, no. It now shoots 12.6 fpe. I know I can take it apart and cut more off the spring, but it's rather annoying to do so. The gun really isn't broken in, per se. I have about 300 shots through it. The last 5 shots over the crhronograph gave 16 fps velocity spread and 5.6 SD. Am I expecting too much at this point? What is your experience in tuning these guns?
Paul, I have about the same timeline with my TX200 .17 as you before adding the Vortek kit, I did the HO, although it is smoother, I feel it will need a few tins through her to settle down. And for me, that could be awhile. I really enjoy the TX.

Patrick
 
I am retired so I have the time to shoot about a tin of 500 per week, or more. I have had 3 replacement springs in my TX200. I chrono about one time after each spring settles in. I shoot benchrest in a league and in a monthly match at both 10 and 20 meters. Although there is a definite correlation between fps and pellet weight for accuracy I have no interest in fps per se. What I have learned is it take 1000 shots minimum to let the spring settle in , maybe closer 1500. I can see it in group size and also consistency. I shoot a lot of group's at 25 yards at notebook paper reinforcement rings. When 5 shot group after group starts repeating in the .250 center I know the spring has reached a happy spot. This is when I will crony to see where is settled in at.
Thanks for your feeback really, I tried retirement but didn't work so well for me so I'm back at it full time w WFH 2 days a week. Keeps me sharp but miss the shooting part, I guess that will come eventually for me as well and that's a good thing. Not a hunter, really into the math and physics of shot placement. Thats what rings my bell. totally agree with all you assessments about breaking in spring guns.
 
Thanks for your feeback really, I tried retirement but didn't work so well for me so I'm back at it full time w WFH 2 days a week. Keeps me sharp but miss the shooting part, I guess that will come eventually for me as well and that's a good thing. Not a hunter, really into the math and physics of shot placement. Thats what rings my bell. totally agree with all you assessments about breaking in spring guns.
Your day will come. I landed a paper route the week I turned 10. Quit working when I was 70.5. Was layed off once for 4 weeks and was once 2 weeks between jobs when I quit one. Now it's play time. There is about 6 of us that shoot the pellet guns daily and also shoot a weekly match a half hour away and we hold a monthly match. Buy a TX200 or HW97 and have fun. We shoot in an indoor archery range, 25 yds. It was just me, I talked a friend into buying one and we keep growing. We also have some guys still working that join on weekends.
 
Tunning is not just replacing springs and seals. What condition is the piston seal, the breech seal, is the end cap tight in the compression tube, is the piston a tight fit or a loose fit, are the ends of your springs smooth or rough, have you tried changing the piston weight inside, tried shimming the spring, have you checked the loading port for burrs and what type of lube and how is it being applied?????? All these things mentioned can alter your velocity, accuracy, consistency, and overall firing behavior. Spring and seal are only small parts of the tunning process.
 
Totally agree, bought my TX200 about 6 months ago and about 300 pellets shots. still work full time so not as much range time as I wold like. This gun shot great out of the box once I found the right pellets. I have the Vortek HO kit but not touching anything until 1000 shots plus and may never modify at all.
Not sure makes a difference but mine is in .22 and can shoot 1" groups at 50 yards. My feeling is, for what these guns cost, unless a perfectionist or competition shooter, shouldn't need more that TLC
 
I have been shooting a TX for just over a year. I have started about a half dozen or so friends in that time who have bought either TXs or HW97s. I have shot these guns out of the box, home tuned, and professionally tuned. My overwelmong thought is this. Tuning in general does not make them more accurate, but tuning them makes them easier to shoot accurately on a consistent basis much easier.
 
You can shoot all the pellets you want and wait for things to settle in, or just shoot a hundred or so and if everything functions well, go ahead and tear it down. No need to rush out and spend money on a kit unless you need new parts. On all my TX's I use the factory parts for the first tune. When something wears out or breaks then buy a new one. My current MK 3 has all factory parts, just cleaned, polished and lubed properly. Both spring ends polished and lubed. All mine became excellent shooters right away without wasting thousands of pellets. My newest one was bought almost three years ago, still has the original parts, from factory but cleaned, polished, deburred, lubed and timed with weights and shims. Just shot over the chrono yesterday...still 910 fps with jsb 8.4 gn. Yesterday shot a 5 shot group at 40 yds covered with a dime.. You can buy all the kits you want and they are good, but why not use the factory parts, they can be used to make a fine shooting rifle!! Mabey I am just cheap!!!!