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Moly grease.
- Thread starter MACTEN
- Start date
OK, this might sound odd and I apologize for the long winded-ness before I even start, but here goes...
Years ago I was searching for a new "something" to lube my cases with as I resized them for reloading. Ever shoved a dry 300 win mag case into a die? If you have you know what a mess it can be. Use too much of the lube and you'll get an easy removal but dimples from the hydraulic "hot spots" between the case and die. Use too little and that case isn't coming out till the second coming. So there I was, half a dozen or more different lubes and none was really up to the task. Then I came across this great stuff called "Imperial size wax", other reloaders ranted about how good it was. Couldn't get too much as you just "Moisten" your finger tips with it every second or third case and just kind of rub your fingers on the cases as you put them on the ram...majic!
But, sometime later I ran across a bunch of guys, can't remember where just now, but it was online. They introduced me to "Ed's Red" and some other really great home made bullet lubes. But also, a new (to me anyway) case lube, said it was even better than Imperial. Well, I just had to check that out, so I sourced all the materials and mixed up a batch. No kidding, this stuff is the shiznit for case lubing and I have still to get thru even a half ounce of the stuff (I made like half a pound of it).
Now, fast forward a couple years, I'm dealing with an obstinate Webley Premier. The Webleys, for those that don't know, use a sliding link along the top of thier air tube that has a bad tendency to gall, stick and render the pistol un-usable. So, I had tried polishing the raceway as well as the small link. Tried different oils and greases. Then it dawns on me, how about that super case lube I made up? So I did, that Webley has yet to catch again after many hundreds of rounds.
What is this majical stuff? 50/50 Anhydrous lanolin and petroleum jelly. That's it, just heat the two together in a pan till they form a nice consistent mixture, pour into small jars and let cool. The lanolin is not the best smelling stuff and you'd be wise to not make it in the kitchen unless you really want to know how many times your wifes head can spin around spewing split pea soup. I just use a small hotplate I have out in the garage that I use to pre-heat my bullet moulds. You can find the lanolin on Ebay or at least I did, I'm sure Amazon has it too.
FWIW
Chris
Years ago I was searching for a new "something" to lube my cases with as I resized them for reloading. Ever shoved a dry 300 win mag case into a die? If you have you know what a mess it can be. Use too much of the lube and you'll get an easy removal but dimples from the hydraulic "hot spots" between the case and die. Use too little and that case isn't coming out till the second coming. So there I was, half a dozen or more different lubes and none was really up to the task. Then I came across this great stuff called "Imperial size wax", other reloaders ranted about how good it was. Couldn't get too much as you just "Moisten" your finger tips with it every second or third case and just kind of rub your fingers on the cases as you put them on the ram...majic!
But, sometime later I ran across a bunch of guys, can't remember where just now, but it was online. They introduced me to "Ed's Red" and some other really great home made bullet lubes. But also, a new (to me anyway) case lube, said it was even better than Imperial. Well, I just had to check that out, so I sourced all the materials and mixed up a batch. No kidding, this stuff is the shiznit for case lubing and I have still to get thru even a half ounce of the stuff (I made like half a pound of it).
Now, fast forward a couple years, I'm dealing with an obstinate Webley Premier. The Webleys, for those that don't know, use a sliding link along the top of thier air tube that has a bad tendency to gall, stick and render the pistol un-usable. So, I had tried polishing the raceway as well as the small link. Tried different oils and greases. Then it dawns on me, how about that super case lube I made up? So I did, that Webley has yet to catch again after many hundreds of rounds.
What is this majical stuff? 50/50 Anhydrous lanolin and petroleum jelly. That's it, just heat the two together in a pan till they form a nice consistent mixture, pour into small jars and let cool. The lanolin is not the best smelling stuff and you'd be wise to not make it in the kitchen unless you really want to know how many times your wifes head can spin around spewing split pea soup. I just use a small hotplate I have out in the garage that I use to pre-heat my bullet moulds. You can find the lanolin on Ebay or at least I did, I'm sure Amazon has it too.
FWIW
Chris
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Very interesting. However petroleum jelly is of course petroleum based. The Lee die sizing grease used to be pure lanolin I believe, and that may not be a bad idea. I have gone through dozens of tubes of the stuff when I reloaded. Maybe I have a tube around that isn't a brick.
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"I have gone through dozens of tubes of the stuff when I reloaded. " That Lee stuff is crapola in comparison. I abandoned that years ago. I wouldn't use that to lube a shovel.
That is one of the best parts about this or even the Imperial wax, you make or get a pellet tin sized tub of it and you'll be passing it on to your kids. You just don't need much of it at all.
If I remember correctly, the reason for the petroleum jelly in the mix is to make the stuff more liquidy and sticky.
Chris
That is one of the best parts about this or even the Imperial wax, you make or get a pellet tin sized tub of it and you'll be passing it on to your kids. You just don't need much of it at all.
If I remember correctly, the reason for the petroleum jelly in the mix is to make the stuff more liquidy and sticky.
Chris
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I've had good luck with Hornady One Shot case lube.
ONE SHOT® CASE LUBE
One Shot® Case Lube with DynaGlide Plus® technology is a micro-penetrating high pressure dry film. It contains no petroleum, teflon or other synthetic silicone so it will not contaminate powder or primers.Upvote 0
It’s a shame that the airgun manufacturer doesn’t give better lube instructions to give more longevity to their products. Moreover, better component construction choices to reduce wear would be the “ideal” solution!
Ditto.I've had good luck with Hornady One Shot case lube.
ONE SHOT® CASE LUBE
One Shot® Case Lube with DynaGlide Plus® technology is a micro-penetrating high pressure dry film. It contains no petroleum, teflon or other synthetic silicone so it will not contaminate powder or primers.
I wonder if you could use it as a pellet lube?
Justin
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I'd want to know what it does to rubber before trying it on pellets. Could probably grab one of your hundreds of o-rings (that's probably all of us) and let it sit in it for a few weeks. I've been using either PB Blaster silicone or WD 40 silicone as a pellet lube with good results last time I actually was at the range.
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Or on the bolt , since it's a dry lube. I never thought about the oil viscosity changing in cold weather. But with metal on metal I'm going to put some kind of lube on it.
I've never used a pellet lube. Does it really make a difference ?
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I'll be using moly Honda 60 I used to use (new name now but same thing) with really good results so that's that. Thanks for all tips everyone.
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I haven't used Moly in my rifles, but I HAVE used Dielectric grease on O-Rings in my rifles. Just that small package at the front counter of Oreilly's has lasted me over 3 yrs now.
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I work in the aerospace industry, and Krytox (Ultimox is a generic version) is applied to every fastener and fitting we install as an anti-galling and anti-seize lube. Mostly in stainless, titanium, aluminum, and inconel.
It will work fine, but I really can't see anywhere where you'd need an extreme pressure cryogenic proof anti-seize in an air rifle.
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A few things...
Why do you need moly or graphite anywhere on a PCP gun? Both are extreme pressure, sheer resistant dry lubricants. Unnecessary on all counts in a PCP.
Caution: most all of the paste or goop type moly lubes will thicken drastically with time and in cold weather. This will cause major issues.
Silicone doesn't go on threads period. It's about as good as water as an actual lubricant and will cause metal threads to gall.
Any black oring in a PCP gun is Buna rubber. It's not affected by petroleum lubes, and is in fact the same material as most orings in your car engine. So don't go nuts believing you have to use SILICONE (not SILICON) grease to preserve the orings. Use anything you have handy, it doesn't matter.
Most lubed parts in a PCP don't really even need lube to begin with. Using the wrong stuff or too much will do much more harm than just doing nothing. There is no extreme sliding pressures to contend with, except for a surface that contacts a loaded spring that has the potential to turn when compressed, like a hammer spring. But again, any plain old grease will suffice, as it's hardly an "extreme" pressure.
Just some things to think about.
Why do you need moly or graphite anywhere on a PCP gun? Both are extreme pressure, sheer resistant dry lubricants. Unnecessary on all counts in a PCP.
Caution: most all of the paste or goop type moly lubes will thicken drastically with time and in cold weather. This will cause major issues.
Silicone doesn't go on threads period. It's about as good as water as an actual lubricant and will cause metal threads to gall.
Any black oring in a PCP gun is Buna rubber. It's not affected by petroleum lubes, and is in fact the same material as most orings in your car engine. So don't go nuts believing you have to use SILICONE (not SILICON) grease to preserve the orings. Use anything you have handy, it doesn't matter.
Most lubed parts in a PCP don't really even need lube to begin with. Using the wrong stuff or too much will do much more harm than just doing nothing. There is no extreme sliding pressures to contend with, except for a surface that contacts a loaded spring that has the potential to turn when compressed, like a hammer spring. But again, any plain old grease will suffice, as it's hardly an "extreme" pressure.
Just some things to think about.
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I'll be using moly Honda 60 I used to use (new name now but same thing) with really good results so that's that. Thanks for all tips everyone.
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A quart of Mobile 1 0-10 and some Tri-flow, You will have a multiple lifetime supply and the slicked gun in town,, next to mine.
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I'm thinking moly grease but I don't know if anyone have recommendations for blitz metal on metal parts.
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