Uragan (updates as I learn the gun)

Yes. Your spring is going into coil bind when you dial in more spring tension. Order a higher rate spring. Mcmaster Carr is a great source. Order several different rates for experimenting. Order music wire springs if possible rather than stainless, as stainless tends to fatigue and break. 

Knife

Thats what mine does. If I go over a certain point the fps drop 50 fps. Can't figure out why manufacturer puts on a huge bottle and doesn't increase plenum size so you can get more air out of your tank. Going off regulator at 150 bar is crazy


 
Just moved, it took a long time and I'm not done yet but I have started getting the airguns out. Still a fan of the uragan and actually just picked up a .177 so I have 4 (ugh) .177 to .30 all standards / full size. 

No real info to add yet but the .177 it shooting to specs and seems to be extremly conistent (spread and on target) just have not had more than a few shots at a time to test it. 

Havent shot much in months and what I have shot is mostly 10m with the LP1 as I have very little air to work with until the electritian gets the 220 line installed for the compressor. 

Anyone else try the .177 full size yet??
 
Good Day,

Recently I picked up a brand new Uragan standard in .30, sweet synthetic and a beastly looking thing;

The physical build of this thing checks all the boxes twice over and is ideal for me as I will be using it for hunting strictly. So I got this rig with an intention to sling slugs. I have not tried any so far as I am still waiting for delivery of slugs. 
Over the weekend I took it out and decided I try some JSB 44.75, and my initial observation was that the velocities had a lot of inconsistencies/sporadic which I believe threw my groups off. Have a look,

Scenario A

- Tank at 290Bar

- Velocities = 897, 867, 864, 855, 859, 865, 865



Senario B

-Tank at 250Bar

- Velocities = 904, 904, 903, 907, 892, 909, 911, 902, 896, 898(215Bar)



Senario C

-Tank at 200Bar

- Velocities = 907, 904, 904, 902, 902, 902



Senario D 

-Tank at 280Bar

-Velocities = 939, 939, 939, 938, 936, 938, 941, 940(~250Bar) , 928, 924, 952, 948, 944, 940, 939, 940, 940, 908, 910, 907, 908



Never really ran a shot string below 200Bar. Most of the time I refilled air at 200Bar.

What do you make of the velocities? Could there be an issues with the Reg? I am no expert in PCPs so I am not gonna pretend I know what is happening here.I have not tinkered with the gun at all, so everything is as I received from factory.



Your input is highly appreciated.



Thanks.


 
I just got one and it is too loud for me even with a Donny Sumo on it it is louder than my FX Dream Tact which also has a Sumo on it.

In the woods is ok but I want to shoot in my backyard and it is too loud.





Jeff,

loudness is pretty important to me. Thank you for sharing your experience!

To better understand your comments, would you give the specifics of the two guns.

I take it, you have an Uragan Standard — and a Dream Tac with 500 or 600 or 700mm barrel?

What caliber are the guns? Out of the box power, or upped the power? (to what FPE?)

Thanks. 👍🏼

Matthias
 
Someone was asking about a brass restrictor,here is what was in mine (UK .22 Long). I made some different ones from 8mm bras round bar.

(mccastro's images deleted for quoting, original post is here: https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/uragan-on-the-way/page/6/#post-559774)

@mccastro (or anyone else) - if there is a brass restrictor, is it located under #122 (circled in red in the image below)? (original exploded view swiped from one of Michael's posts)

exploded view.1646225782.jpeg




Edit 04/05/2022 - I found it in another thread on here....that is the screw.
 
I've had my Uragan for ~2 months, and it's been great. Until now. After filling, I purged the line and removed the probe, and all of the air began leaking out of the fill port. I tried refilling and quickly purging several more times, hoping that might fix the problem, but it did not.

I contacted AGN, and this was their reply:

We thank you for purchasing Uragan,
and we are sorry to hear about this issue.

Actually, this leakage is very easy to rectify.
But you should be capable to disassemble and then assemble the air rifles.

To rectify the leakage:
You can turn screw #103 for 30' in the clockwise direction approximately.
Or screw in the screw all the way up to the hilt
and then turn it back for 10'-15' in the counterclockwise direction.

Check the attached picture, please.


thumbnail_Screw #103_URAGAN.jpg



Very helpful, but I'm going to have to disagree that this is an easy fix. To get to that screw, I'm going to have to totally disassemble the gun.

uragan.jpg


Anyone have any experience tearing into this part of an Uragan? Looks like even once I remove the barrel, it's going to be tight getting a wrench in there. Any tips would be appreciated.

My other option is to return it to Krale to fix, but given shipping fees and the time it will take, I'd prefer to fix it myself.
 
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Just to follow up, I was able to resolve the issue with my Uragan. When I purchased it from Krale, I knew I might have to address any issues myself, just didn't expect to have to do so after only 2 months of owning the gun. But I'm glad I did the work myself, the guns are well built and actually quite easy to work on. AGN's customer service was also very helpful.

As for getting a US dealer to work on my Uragan, that would have been a last resort if I couldn't fix it myself. But I felt it would have been a dick move to call someone up and say, "I saved over $300 buying my gun somewhere else, but can you now fix it for me?"
 
Why would it be a "dick move"? They most likely make far more money per hour doing repair work than when selling a gun. I would not have thought twice on paying them even when I did not buy it from them. I really doubt that they would have checked their records to see if they sold it to you. I also doubt whether they would have discounted their services if they had sold it to you.
 
I should have taken pictures while I had it apart, but was too focused on getting everything right. This thread gives a good explanation for removing the barrel: link

Once the barrel is out, you need to unscrew the air hose with a 14mm wrench to get to the screw. This was the most difficult part for me, as there is very little room inside the frame to turn the wrench. I don't know if AGN has special tools they use or what, but I had to use my grinder to remove material from the outside of my 14mm wrench in order for it to fit inside the frame, and even then could only turn it a few mm at a time. But once you break the nut loose, you can turn it the rest of the way out by hand. Once off, it is a tiny 2 or 3mm allen that only required less than a quarter turn. Felt like a lot of work to disassemble the gun just to turn a screw such a small amount, but it worked. I did not use any loctite or anything on the screw as it took a bit of effort to turn it. I'm hoping I won't have to do this again, but if I do, I will use some sort of threadlock next time.

uragan.jpg