PCP Rifle SOLD Serpent arms 28ga
- By Cheplicki
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- 10 Replies
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Those pellets are happy from 800-920. It just depends on your barrel and your tune.Yes I agree they SHOULD have gone with the conical endcap. But I’be been told that’s normal and it’s unnecessary on the 500mm because if you are plan on hammering the snot out of the compact, you should just get a 600/700mm barrel. I may get back on the phone with them today and see if I can get some additional information and advice on things. Even in AEAC master tuning guide video (forgot his name) he states the valve hits the shroud and it’s normal and just to tune from 1/4 turn off the shroud. I guess I need to figure out exactly how much speed to take off with the hammer and how much speed to take off with the valve. I’m guessing 30ish fps from hammer and another 30ish from the valve for peak efficiency and performance. Take the gun to 910-915 fps, drop back on hammer to 880ish, pull in the valve adjuster to 850-860 fps (which is where I’ve heard the hades are happy). From what I’m understanding this is ideal??
Good morning Tony, this post is a little over a year old, but your website still states that you make both pellets and slugs. There's also a video of someone showcasing your slugs with an open tin a .30 pellets and your lid off the tin. Did you make pellets when you first started? Not sure why someone would lie about the company they got them from.I am truly sorry you feel that way, but we don't make or sell pellets . We only specialize in making Slugs.
once you get it down it becomes very natural while loading a side lever .Cool, I was just wondering about trying that. If the trigger failed, it would hurt - but all of your parts would still be attached!
Sorry, pre-coffee momentI would like to think that I, and the guns can shoot 2" groups at 25 yyards but reread my op, I said 25 feet.
Does it move at all?Have a Tm-1000 trying to remove stock,
no go!
I believe the action may have been set in stock when urethane was not completely dry and basically glued itself together? I’ve tried heat to stock hoping to expand stock and break bond but to no avail. Any ideas?
Yes I agree they SHOULD have gone with the conical endcap. But I’be been told that’s normal and it’s unnecessary on the 500mm because if you are plan on hammering the snot out of the compact, you should just get a 600/700mm barrel. I may get back on the phone with them today and see if I can get some additional information and advice on things. Even in AEAC master tuning guide video (forgot his name) he states the valve hits the shroud and it’s normal and just to tune from 1/4 turn off the shroud. I guess I need to figure out exactly how much speed to take off with the hammer and how much speed to take off with the valve. I’m guessing 30ish fps from hammer and another 30ish from the valve for peak efficiency and performance. Take the gun to 910-915 fps, drop back on hammer to 880ish, pull in the valve adjuster to 850-860 fps (which is where I’ve heard the hades are happy). From what I’m understanding this is ideal??Gotcha, in thay instance, yes it is normal. But they really should've gone with the same conical shape on the compact as they did with the 600mm/700mm.
I believe you need to use a heat gun to remove that small piece along with needle pliers.
Thanks for the well thought detailed response it helps a lot as I had some wrong understandings. Why does the 25 use air more efficiently power for power? I find myself hunting taking shots hunting typically between 40 yards to 100 yards. I would probably take more shots at 100+ but since I only have 27fpe in .22 at the muzzle the drop off in energy at those distances starts to get questionably ethical. However, I am looking to step up to a new air rifle shooting 50 fpe at the muzzle so with a heavier pellet or slug I could carry good power at that longer distance. My intuitive sense says that shooting a heavy 22 slug would give me a better BC and accuracy at that distance. Just to make sure I am understanding you, are you saying the .25 is better for power and accuracy at that distance and more efficient using air translating to a higher shot count per fill as well as more power and accuracy at 90 -125 yards?
What did you shoot them out of?I was testing out the KOs to see how they compared at accuracy and drift in some wind today. Shot at a dirt bank we had about 100yds away. 3 shots with the KOs then 3 with the JTS. Group wise actually both did very well I'd say under an inch shooting out the door of my truck. KOs were about half the drift. But what surprised me is I saw the backs of every KO. They opened up so well in that dirt it's comical compared to the JTS they got some hard lead lol. Only found one of them but literally looks like I just pushed it through with a cleaning rod lol it went in about an inch and a half deep into the dirt. View attachment 546623View attachment 546622View attachment 546624
Heat the Action with a hot gun ( electric of course) and let cool, or even as mentioned put it in a frig or freezer. The expansion, contraction may break or loosen the bond a bit?Have a Tm-1000 trying to remove stock,
no go!
I believe the action may have been set in stock when urethane was not completely dry and basically glued itself together? I’ve tried heat to stock hoping to expand stock and break bond but to no avail. Any ideas?
I would like to think that I, and the guns can shoot 2" groups at 25 yyards but reread my op, I said 25 feet.Good shooting, 2 inch off hand groups at 25 yards is better than many people can achieve with any gun.
You might want to try other brands of pellets as well. In all my (25) airguns, the Crosmans consistently perform poorly.
Cheers!