This is hard to say..... But.....

The new FX Leopard with a big bottle, "doubtless", is a rifle that we HAVE TO buy.....

Just imagine the accuracy of my DRS, plus being a .30 Cal and with a lot of shots per fill..... Well, everything I have dream about on this (rabbit hole) hobby.

grouch-o said:

hi @sonnysan,
thanks for the comment and tip.
yes, i am aware of the 'finned' projectile, i realized too late that there was tiny lead splinter in between the molds sealing surface and so the whole lot of 8 slugs were lost. i later sorted them out, but wanted to show my true results.
i've not been aware of the peanut mold being available. from where did you get it? or do you mean the MP molds vers.2, that looks like the swaged 'HUBEN PEANUT'?
when i asked about this from Gregor Kamenšek in regard of the K1, the response was:
"Peanuts are not casted and are therefore more accurately produced than MP molds. For the chinese barrel, V3 casted are best but Peanuts are even better. For LW barrel Peanuts and V2 mold is probably best"

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I mean the MP molds "peanut". I know the commercial product is different:


I'm attempting to replicate a cast peanut's accuracy through a customer by providing three different diameters of the same slug. It's worth it to perform the exercise, as I don't have any oversized bores to test them in (yet).

Thanks for showing your results.

If you would please do so, shoot some group"s" at 50Y at setting 3 and at setting 9 because it seemed 3 was more precise. I'm just curious as 3 through 6 are more precise as well. Also opposite of that - 10 to 1 going clockwise seem less precise.

All that is to say I'd rather be clocked away from 9 if I can get twice the precision. The problem is it takes quite a bit of trial and error shooting groups in calm conditions to make a fruitful decision.

My experience with removing the barrel to clean and reinstalling it on both DW and RW is that the poi change is negligible but MAY require a click or two to recenter sometimes. I ONLY clean these barrels by removing and using a rod w jag and patch. I had to recrown a CR94 barrel once that had a documented 100k shots through it as he had worn the muzzle rifling completely smooth by pulling a patch through from the muzzle after every session. If you are extremely careful to pull straight out, this might not be an issue.
I have 177, 20, 22, 25, and 30 cal barrels for both and it interesting that changing calibers usually requires little or no scope adjustment if the velocities are similar.
I DO like the DW/Ghost one screw though. Just one less step...
Bob

Got a Dremel tool? It's easy to chamfer the openings in the magazines so projectiles don't get hung up.

Cheap steel 3 or 4" gongs work (Ebay). Easy to figure out your own rack from which to hang them. 1/4 or 1/2" steel won't be penetrated by airguns.

The cheapish one I've had for 8 years has always been within a couple fps of more expensive (some really expensive) ones. Close enough for me!

Patrick1 said:

Don't forget to "maintain" the o-rings

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Just did lube job on my Two.
Mind you not every O-ring even if it have less than any FX i am aware of, but just the heart, so valve and immediate surroundings and regulator.

Took me about 30 minutes to do, pressured back up to the 240 BAR i had, and put away with reg pressure of 61 BAR, and pressures was the same 30 hours later.

This is interesting...
Just had dinner with Robert last night and he showed me a pic of an HW30 walnut and described the whole experience of working with HW and Minelli to create... it was BEAUTIFUL ...
I do not know how much extra it costs though...
I wasn't aware of this before... Yours looks quite nice...
Bob

shootinsquid said:

Hello airgun gurus,

I have a CX4-I which runs great, but want something to fill my 6.8L Acecare bottle that doesn’t work so hard.

I considered a Carette II, but decided against it after reading other’s folks experiences trying to get support/parts for it after the sale.

Then I looked at the Omega 4500 over at AoA. I understand that AoA supports and has parts for it, which is good if so. Additionally, it appears that particular compressor is a re-branded GX E5K1 that’s more expensive ($1500 plus tax/ship).

Looking further, on the GX compressor “official website” GX E5K2s are on sale for about $1600, shipped. But then I’m wondering about parts and support availability.

Lastly, I consider myself handy and can tinker with minor/medium repair jobs that aren’t too complicated.

Which direction would y’all recommend I go? Thx!

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The thing is it’s not working hard just long. Very little heat buildup, just putts along.

If I want to "diagnose" the penetration & wound channel of a projectile I just use modeling clay. The youtube videos are more about titillating than functionality. I'll bet 99.9 percent of us here don't use ballistic gel.

6gun said:

Check out nielson specialty ammo too.

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Thank you, I will.

They sent me a return label.

blackdog899 said:

Wow, I wish there were benchrest matches within 100 miles of
me that I could justify to myself something like that. CAUSE I WOULD! !

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There is a club that shoots informal benchrest 25m indoors about an hour from me. I went a couple weeks ago and a Thomas and RAW both posted perfect cards.

This gun is primarily for field target but I’m starting with pellet testing indoors at 20y.

Mr.H said:

I bought my gear a couple of years ago, so they may have been a little cheaper. I bought my units individually, but I'm pretty sure Amazon does sell both of those units in a combo pack for $240.

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If they did I didn’t see it. $189 tripod 100 lb52 head. Not with the other head either.

Don't forget to "maintain" the o-rings with a little silicone every 2 months or so, Makes them last quite a bit longer.

I even put my arm between the cocked side lever on my FWB 65 pistol and the body of the gun while loading . I just have this thing about pain .

Jlowe said:

You can get a replacement kit from Utah Air guns. I would call them. I've done regs on FX air guns before and it a pretty straight forward job. You don't need a complete reseal, but hey, it's not my air gun.

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If some o rings are dried out going bad do you not think that more then likely others could be in same condition.

A standard velocity 22rf 40gr bullet goes approximately 1060 fps which is 99.82 fpe and the G1 BC is approximately .16.

In my tuned Vulcan 3 the 60gr Altaros slugs are going 862 fps which is 99.02 fpe and the G1 BC is .245.
These slugs blow less in the wind than the 22rf but go slower so they have more drop up to around 400 yards when the slugs are going the same velocity as the 22rf because of that higher BC.
Edit, Keep in mind a V3 "HP" is capable of another 100+ fps with that same slug.

Practically speaking both my two guns, one a 22rf match rifle, and the other that V3, are so close in precision out to 100Y it's hard to see any difference because they both average around 1.1".

The ES for my 22rf with match ammo is 40fps and the slugs are 15 fps. However once in a while the 22rf has a shot that goes much slower due to, I can only guess, having less powder in it.

The 22rf seems easier to shoot to hit with. The V3 is very close behind my 22rf.

As far as in top level BR comps the 22rf with lot tested ammo also seems?? to be dominant, and same with PRS or NRL type matches.

PCP's with slugs are closing in on 22rf in a few ways but at the same time exceed it in others, specially much lower ES, and the availability of higher BC slugs.

22rf is less hassle if that's a main concern but match ammo is getting really expensive.

thom said:

View attachment 546534View attachment 546535
I shot two of my Chinese rifles today. I have two or three more that are under levers. One of these is a break barrel and the other is a side lever. Both shoot well and can shoot 2" groups at 25 feet offhand. I like the side lever best. I'm amazed at how well these cheap guns perform.
One thing I don't like is loading a pellet with the action open, danger of losing a finger or two.

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I have had my thumb smashed by that model of sidelever. It was a long, long time ago and I had no idea of the safety issues then. Thumbnail grew back, but I always keep a hand on the cocking lever now.

This listing has been renewed

mikey fingers said:

Ballistic gel/Ballistic bodies. Why are they used ?do u use them ,if so for what .is it for fine tuning ur gun and technique. Just for fun? And when is 20% appropriate?? Why are the zombie parts just so expensive? What do u think ??

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Real B-Gel is (or was ?) $$$$ their are video to DIY but then it is not guaranteed to be consistent through and through .