All three parts of the Spring Valley practice vlog are now live on YouTube.

Hands down the Kral factory with my valve design. No limit on money so I'd buy them a hammerforging
machine for my 3 groove barrel with a tensioned shroud and make a sub $1000 retail tack driver.

Wow that post was from 4 years ago! That was the stock that came with a Kral Super Jumbo the first PCP I bought back then. I used a Harbor Freight bench grinder to get the pad down to the size I needed.

F6Hawk said:

I have emptied my CS4 several times (about five, and blew all the water out with air) and refilled it. It takes about 500 ml. I am going by a measuring cup, not a manual.

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That's interesting because I measured the amount of coolant it took to fill my CS4 and it's very close to 300 ml - also by measuring cup.

NAProf said:

Hi,
My 2 cents - use a .22 for HFT if it is going to be your only air rifle and you want to do pesting or hunting with it also. If you are shooting American Field Target (Hunter Class) you are limited to 20 FPE. Typically, folks use AA or JSB 13.4 gr .22 pellets shooting them around 820 fps. They can be very accurate, though the trajectory will not be as flat as a .177 (unless you are shooting 13.4's in .177 of course).

I have been pretty successful in Hunter Class using a .177 shooting at 820 fps. The hard part of FT is not getting your dope figured out, it is ranging accurately and reading the wind. I have shot some really good 30 and 40 yd cards in the AGN 30yd challenge using the .177 at 820 fps. In fact, most of the shooters on that thread who are shotting the 13.4's are at 820 fps or lower, and there is no requirement limiting speed. They just seem to shoot better there.

Cheers,
Greg

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Thank you Greg. Question, if you have been successful with 0.177 why are you recommending .22?

Trucker3573 said:

The hammer pre load is either quite low or there is blockage in the airway

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A blockage ..... why didn't we think of that

Rolland said:

I got it from Crosman600repair.com, [email protected] You also might contact Mike Baker a member here he has a vast supply of parts and is very knowledgeable on the repairs.
Good luck on the repairs I found the rifle to be a bit tedious to reassemble, I hope it lasts a while before I need to go back inside.
Cheers

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Thank you very much!

Oh my, what will Bob Sterne do now?

dormitionskete said:

Thanks. 35 yards is my limit. But I shoot exclusively .177 -- I've never even shot a .22 air gun -- and I have to be able to hit within 1/4" to make a good clean kill. I couldn't do that at 75 yards in my wildest dreams.

I got 5 chippers today despite being sick and not spending much time outside. What a day. That makes 76 for the year so far, not including other critters. I end up burying some almost every day because the cat can't eat them all, on top of what she's getting herself.

We have a point where they love to tease me b/c they know it's out of my range. 65 yards minimum. If you ever want to come to central Colorado and show them who's boss, that'd be keen.

View attachment 582093

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That looks and sounds great!
Ive never been west of Tyler TX. So far.

Sign of the times... price point seems to out sell quality.

This listing has been renewed

Normkel said:

Which Chinese chrony?

I have one of these and don't bother with my other chronographs. PVC tubing over the U bolt and some rubber inner tube glued to the V block to avoid gun finish damage.

View attachment 582170

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A slightly newer version of yours. The text on the top is in both English and Chinese, and it will do FPS or m/s. I used a bunch of electrical tape to do the job that your tubing is doing. It was my second one - I dropped the first one and it went flaky on me.

R.Ramjet said:

Just found out Johnson Paste wax that I have used on the metal and wood of my guns for years has been discontinued. Such a great product stopped with no reason to the public. Not advertised for guns but one of the best gun finish protectants on there. Was sold in a big can at about $6 in stores. Now leftover cans going for $100 on EvilBay! WTF!!!

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Businesses are not prone to discontinuing products that are selling well and profitable. There is a good reason they discontinued it.
Unless of course you gave them a reason to get even with you

Blejda said:

I agree with above stated rifles.Would add Streamline and Taipan Veteran 1.

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+1 on the Streamline. I have two .22s that shoot as well as my DRS and S510 Extra.

Filnez said:

It's not inexpensive but very good wax, Renaissance Wax.

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This is the best I have found and it stays good for a long long time

I probably should shouldn't say this but, I got really lucky I've got enough fun tokens to pretty much do what I want, within reason. I've got my PCP's that pretty much do what I want, IF I do what I'm suppose to. My Sapsan works well, my Maverick Compact .22 project gun is a touch temperamental but it works well enough out to 100 yards or so. My Maverick VP 600mm .25barrel is interchangeable withe 30.2 gr slugs or 33.9 gr pellets (AEA's) point and click 125 yards. My GSAR Raptor is a monster, it's long and big, and now consistent as all get out with 30.2 gr AEA slugs. If I wanted to push the gun it'd do 49.2's but I honestly don't want to push it that hard and it sucks air like there is no tomorrow. They actually work pretty well at lower speeds but then, why bother. I have a Tequila pistol that works very well and is very accurate for what I do with it at 25 yards or so. I have an old Daisy 717 that still works well. The Mrs.'s doesn't give me any grief when I buy some stuff so meh I'm good.

Let me see what GMI can do about the demand in Casting equipment.

Which Chinese chrony?

I have one of these and don't bother with my other chronographs. PVC tubing over the U bolt and some rubber inner tube glued to the V block to avoid gun finish damage.

Motorhead said:

I would start with a fresh and likely stronger spring within the latch assembly.
Then again a strong spring will also create greater wear as latch post rubs on breech face even harder ...

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This is REALLY good advice - I have a 70's vintage HW35 like yours that had the exact same problem - I could break the barrel like it was a HW30!. But I sent it to Motorhead who installed a fresh spring and, presto - it's tip top and is one of my sweetest shooting springers! My breech face and the latch both showed some signs of wear, but the old, weak spring was most of the problem. Certainly worth trying!!

Got the carbine .51 kitted the way I want and I installed the high power bias port. Cant wait to test. Got the discovery optics 2-12 ffp lvpo Air Shootist had reviewed, he has a 10% code and link on his youtube video. 16 moa hold under should get me to 190yards with a 390g without any turret adjustments. Got to retest test with the high power and all ranges of slug weights again. Going for a reasonably flat shooter.

orangeokie said:

The GX 4 is hardly larger than a lunch box. I have one and love it.

View attachment 582145

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We are just friends, exchanging opinions, correct?

I am very curious as to your preference for the CS4 over the smaller and lighter CS3. I'm assuming that you don't fill tanks or the reason for preferring the CS4 is obvious. I had a New Warrior (left one in the photo) which is about the same size & wieght as the CS4. Very much different case for transporting and moving. Also, protecting it in transport is much more complicated for the CS4.

My CS3 runs for hours at the weekly range day, since I'm shooting full power .22 PCPs, so the bit shorter CS4 run time might be another possible advantage.

I'm data-gathering, and this seems a good opportunity to hear informed comparisons.

rut said:

Do you get any pressure release from the bottom filter bleed valve after you open the compressor bleed valve first?

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Do you understand how this filter works and how youll get a yes and a no to this answer?

rodjava said:

What different photos do you need?

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Some more detailed information, such as the printed details, or the file for printing can be provided. I still can't explain how the rest works.

F6Hawk said:

Because you... released all the pressure! (Opening the bottom filter valve or the compressor bleed valve is the same thing, in terms of pressure, but NOT waterl). I open the compressor valve first, then the bottom filter valve, and then the upper filter valve. This way, I empty the compressor of water (primary separator), then the bottom of the filter (secondary and less water), then the pressure from the top of the filter to the gun/tank (no water).

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Do you get any pressure release from the bottom filter bleed valve after you open the compressor bleed valve first?

katonahjohn said:

OK folks, I have bit the bullet, or actually the pellet.
Stopped of at my LGS. Ordered a Benjamin Marauder, 22 cal, synthetic stock.
Stopped off at Amazon. An inexpensive compressor, a Vevor. and a spinning target to shoot at (G).
A small step for mankind, a big step for me!

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Now comes the hard part, learning how to lie convincingly about your shooting success.