Air Arms Utah Airguns Pyramyd AIR FX Airguns Daystate Diana Airgun Depot Edgun West DonnyFL: PCP Air Rifle Shop and Airgun Moderators The Pellet Shop Airforce Airguns
Saber Tactical Optisan Side-Shot Scope Cam NE Airguns Baker Airguns AGS Topgun Airguns Predator International Huben Airguns Huma-Air Shooting Supplies Hurricane Luftvapen AEA Precision Airguns H&N Impulse Air ZAN Projectiles Hawke Optics Stud Mag Loader RX Target Systems Sports Match Scope Mounts Altaros Banner CTA Thomas Air Hatsan USA Georgia Air Guns Skout Airguns Nielsen Specialty Ammo Patch Worm Weihrauch Sport Talon Tunes Airgun-Revisions JTS ST7 PPP RTI AirStryk Industries Macavity Arms Vector Optics Corbin

N/A  Newbie looking to buy used complete set up

Agree on the weight and also that any bolt action is probbly not going to be the smoothest. But if the shooter can get by those two factors it is a solid platform for the a new air gunner and is very affordable. It takes much more upper strength than my bullpups for sure but it's not a deal breaker for me, just a different type of shooting. As for bolt axns I also have a Barra 250z and an Alteros M24 and none of them are speed shooters, but if you don't mind slowing down between taking shots they are fine for the type of shooting they are intended for.

Maybe a Kratos or some other iteration that Benjamin offers would be more suitable to someone looking for those traits. There's a a very reasonably priced Akela in the Buy and Sells that would make up for that.

But having said all that there are other sub $700 guns that people seemed to be stoked about. The Zelos seems to be pretty beloved & I can't say anything bad about the $460 Barra that I bought. I don't think anyone really needs to go out and buy a $100 gun to begin with if they want to have a good experienc.
My boy @Perle has shown me a lot about the zelos and it's potential. He's got a custom one that if it were to be a factory option could put a crippling dent into the fx impact sales numbers I think. That's a good direction.

My Gen 1 mrod 25s biggest flaw is a short stroke of the bolt (that stinks to actuate due to gemetry and drag) always results in a double feed.... Which blows all the baffles and the air stripper to bits. I've kept it, but boy it's heavy and long even compared to chungus my 700mm impact wearing too much billet. In 22 I think the mrod would be worth it due to less caliber specific dimensions in the gun. You can out an lw factory barrel in it and do 177 or 22 pretty easy. The 25 needs a barrel bushing made to do it iirc.

N/A  Best 22 pellet slinger?

All my BRKs are great plinkers with the CPHPs both the American and Spanish versions. I plink out to 102 yards with my Atomic (17 fpe), and lPathfinder. It’s my go to pellet for plinking fun. I save my JSBs for my Ghost for pests. An example of the foolishness…
View attachment 586406View attachment 586407View attachment 586405
I’ve been really thinking of the Pathfinder For extra shot count. Do you have one of those?

N/A  Newbie looking to buy used complete set up

Owning a marauder myself, I'm tempted to steer you away from it unless it's side lever converted or semi auto. The rear bolt combined with the weight and size of the is kind of undesirable to me. I'm not a tiny guy either. At least stay away from the 25 mrod. (what I own)
Agree on the weight and also that any bolt action is probbly not going to be the smoothest. But if the shooter can get by those two factors it is a solid platform for the new air gunner and is very affordable. It takes much more upper strength than my bullpups for sure but it's not a deal breaker for me, just a different type of shooting. As for bolt axns I also have a Barra 250z and an Alteros M24 and none of them are speed shooters, but if you don't mind slowing down between taking shots they are fine for the type of shooting they are intended for.

Maybe a Kratos or some other iteration that Benjamin offers would be more suitable to someone looking for those traits. There's a a very reasonably priced Akela in the Buy and Sells that would make up for that.

But having said all that there are other sub $700 guns that people seemed to be stoked about. The Zelos seems to be pretty beloved & I can't say anything bad about the $460 Barra that I bought. I don't think anyone really needs to go out and buy a $1000 gun to begin with if they want to have a positive experience

Just got my Airmarksman Ace slugs

Great groups with the Altaros at 905

The ACE definitely fall apart at 975 just like the Altaros would.

They really didn’t shoot that well either at 905.

From my experience the Altaros can be shot at almost any speed at 50 yards and in but if they are not shot at 880-920 lthey fall apart at 100+. One exception is I saw a Mora firing at 940 with good results.

Mike

I shoot the Altaros at ~960, a bit higher outside in the heat. And well, go check the Long Gong Challenge thread...
  • Like
Reactions: steve123

Help with classifieds

Thanks woodwelder I am also a carpenter..33years.
Me too 25 years. I'm spoiled and get to shoot in the shop every morning and make my own parts.

Airgun critical thinking, skilled fine woodwork and furniture making and machine repair info is dwindling.... And I'm not that old, just an oddball for my generation. Heck showing up early or on time is dwindling too. Hello fellow wood pushers.

FX  What causes regulator to be same pressure as the rest of the air tube?

Hi etothen. I have questions for you. There are pieces of information missing from what you've described that I need to help diagnose the problem.
First of all, are you sure you have an FX AMP regulator in that impact? If it's a HUMA regulator, then I can't help.

Assuming that it's an FX AMP regulator:

There are places where you mention what the plenum pressure was, but you do not mention what the tank pressure was.
For example, you said you increased the regulator pressure and the plenum pressure jumped up to 150 bar, but you didn't say what the tank pressure was at that time. If the tank pressure was also 150 bar at that time, then you may have actually set the regulator to some unknown amount above 150, but that's all the tank had in it at the time. If that was the case, then the regulator was doing exactly what it should do.
Another example is where you say the plenum pressure was 170 bar, but you didn't say what the tank pressure was at the time. If the tank pressure was, for example, at 200 bar, then that would indicate that the regulator is set to 170 bar and the regulator is doing what it's supposed to do.

Your observation that a high plenum pressure and a weak hammer setting is normal in that it would take several dry fires to finally drop the plenum pressure enough below the regulator set pressure to allow the piston to back away from the tiny hole in the end of the set screw and let air from the plenum to escape out to where the bottle connects to. This is normal behavior for an AMP regulator.

Your observation that when you removed the bottle tank, the plenum pressure didn't bleed out right away -- it required dry firing to drop the plenum pressure below the pressure that the regulator was set for. This is normal behavior for an FX AMP regulator.

Initially you said that you thought you were having a similar problem to that of the original poster, but this doesn't sound like the same symptoms. So far it sounds like your regulator is working as it should.

I did say that, IF the only problem with an FX AMP regulator was bad set screw O-rings, then you could bleed the air from the rifle and remove the set screw and replace just those two O-rings and re-install the set screw to fix the problem without needing to remove the entire regulator housing -- and that is STILL true. But I'm not saying there is anything wrong with your set screw O-rings -- so far, I just don't have proof that the O-rings are bad.

If you have more info that would help with a diagnosis, let us know. Cheers.

stovepipe
It is an AMP regulator as far as I can tell, hex head not screw driver, looks internally exactly as expected given the AoA FX AMP rebuild video.

The reg pressure was set at 107-109 'ish, then I turned the set screw an eight of a turn and the plenum reg pressure jumped to 150 which was the bottle pressure at the time. So I pulled the bottle off and dry fired to drop the plenum pressure to zero and reinstalled the bottle and the plenum pressure jumped back to the bottle pressure. So I did this a couple more times as a kind of control alt delete for regs and the behavior continued.

So next I put the bottle on and hooked it up to the pump (unrelated side note below on this btw) and the plenum pressure followed the bottle pressure up to 180 before I stopped the pump, removed the bottle and dry fired until the plenum was completely empty.

Then I tried screwing the reg probe in until I just felt it touch something, about two and a half turns and I attached the bottle again and the plenum reg pressure again showed the same value as the bottle. So it looked like the plenum reg was stuck open, but it did still hold pressure when I took the bottle off. I was surprised that it looked open, but only one way?

So I gave in, went to the AoA site video on the M2 reg rebuild and removed the reg, inspected the piston, surfaces and O rings and found that everything looked lie it should with the notable exception of a lack of grease. I lubed the reg parts up, but only with silicone oil and then and reassembled it as per the instructions with the one problem being that I tracked the washers but I did not see any difference in color in the last two counter to the instructions in the Reg breakdown video describing them as Black, they were the same color as the rest of the washers?

When I attached the bottle the plenum pressure still followed the bottle pressure. But now when I detached the bottle the plenum pressure dropped to zero so I hade at least changed that. So I ordered some thick silicone grease and a new set of O rings. I suspect that they were the original rings and that they had not been adjusted or lubricated with grease in a very long time and doing anything to them made them give up.

So I have experience building/rebuilding and maintaining scientific equipment including gas chromatographs (I am atheoretical/computational climate physicist that has had enough practical experience with machinery that I am quite handy on the experimental side) and in my experience the surfaces I inspected looked like they were in excellent condition, the washers looked and acted exactly as expected and I suspect that the O rings are the likely suspects so I will carefully pull it apart, grease it liberally, install new O rings (although I am not looking forward to that one inside the block even though I have the perfect flat spade shaped dental probe that I bent into just the right shape to get into that 'ringland' so here's to hoping) and see what happens.

If it works, great, if not, well it is only 11 dollars wasted on the new O rings and I will re-asses then. I would point out that finding AMP regulators to replace or rebuild it has proven problematic and if I cant figure out the sourcing problem I may end up wit a Huma regulator for that reason. If you know where to find AMP regs and or rebuild kits let me know.

I hope I properly, sequentially and adequately addressed your questions with my lengthy diatribe about my regulator problems and would love any information about what was happening and exactly where I blew it because there was an easyer fix I missed lol.

PS. It was probably replacing the pin O ring next to it's head wasn't it?

*I have just started this hobby again after a couple decades and am new to PCP's and have been shocked by the pressures these little instruments work at and further shocked that I could get a, so far, reliable pump for $150 that will regularly pump them up too 300+Bar.

Help with classifieds

This is more complicated than it should be imo
Not really. I can only speak for myself but I'd rather have people passionate about the hobby than wham bam sellers or buyers that never participate. We have to share what we know or the hobby will become all gamo break barrels and low effort questions about the cheapest ammo and questionable buyers or sellers who may be unscrupulous.

FX  FX M3 power plenum leaks/drains through 1st reg

First off if you are not helping and hate FX just move on..
My M3 with PP upgrade started leaking fast, OK no big deal I'll replace some O rings and be done. Well the first thing I notice is that the plenum empties through the front reg when the bottle is removed. WHAT? I changed the front reg (new) still the same. Changed the 2nd reg (new), no change. Changed the PP O rings and I think every other O ring including the 2nd stage one that is buried.
Anyone have an idea what I am missing.
Thanks much. Kerry

Help with classifieds

This is more complicated than it should be imo

New

Help with classifieds

I would vote to lobby for a longer participation requirement than we have 😂

New

New member here and New to pcp's live in Texas . Having trouble navigating the classifieds...can't seem to contact with any of the posts. Any help and or advice is appreciated.
You have to participate for a while. It gatekeeps bad sellers out of the classifieds. They want the site to be participation based and not a commission free ebay.
  • Like
Reactions: WoodWelder

N/A  Best 22 pellet slinger?

There is an abundance of choice for a good and reliable .22 cal shooter. My Wildcat MK3 is easily tunable to the pellet of choice and my Impact, while taking a bit more finess, can be tuned in a similar fashion. I am currently working with an Epic Two 300mm that seems to be the cat's meow for me. It likes most pellets from FX Atomic at 15gr to JSB Exact Monster Light at 20 gr without having to change the tune. Oh and it has a CZ unchoked barrel which is opening the world of slugs for me.

I also looked at the Evol, Kalibrgun Snip, AirMaks Katran and ATG Uragan before purchasing the Epic. All great guns with stellar reputations, reviews and accuracy. It was the abilitly to tune everything externally and the choice of CZ or LotharWalther barrel that pulled me in.
  • Like
Reactions: Nealgl1985

FX  M3 Front Reg Question ( Delete via internals removal)

I just left the 1st reg wide open, if I remember correctly that was 225 bar.
I believe you're in the ballpark of either the guage or the Bellville stack max for the front reg. I can't remember which. Just beware the 2nd reg behind the trigger that's the one I was having piston face deformation issues with at 165 bar at one point combined with summer heat/sun of about 110f. If you could get the M4 reg or a huma for behind the trigger I think it would be problem free even if you heatsoak your gun like me. The brass piston with a delrin seat seems to be far superior and long lived for my uses.

Filter