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Peashooter · Mar 22, 2025

I have Huma pin prober on my Maverick, so to be able to flip single shot tray in i must pull a little back on cocking lever as the pin is protruding into the magazine slot when it is all the way back.

Mind you it do not feel like it is seating anything too deep, even the longest slugs and pellets seat just fine,,,,,, though i have not tried the 24 grain Zans in it.
But beasts for instance chamber effortless. can not tell if its stose or a shorter heavy i am chambering.

Star7 · Mar 22, 2025

with the same part number.
OK

1handwill.gc · Mar 22, 2025

EPG said:
OK, my response to the OP’s question: Are expensive PCPs worth it?

Answer: It is highly dependent on your Use Case for the rifle. Generally, I’d say they are not worth it. The law of diminishing returns certainly applies to PCPs.

Rationale for answer: If your use case is competition shooting and you require the highest accuracy and performance available, then an expensive PCP may be “worth it” to achieve your goals.

If your use case is backyard plinking or pesting or squirrel hunting, then the performance, accuracy and reliability of many modestly priced PCPs will be more than adequate.

Support for rationale: I must have 15+ “expensive“ PCPs (FX, Daystate, RTI, Taipan, Weihrauch, etc.). My 1st PCP was a .177 Umarex Gauntlet. I still have it. I paid $199 for it from Pyramyd Air.
I filled it with a $50 hand pump from eBay. I still have it. The regulator and hammer spring are NOT adjustable. It shoots inexpensive Crosman Premier 10.5g domes amazingly well. It has still never leaked. In 2023 I put a Sightron target scope on it one afternoon and shot consecutive Thirty Yard Challenge cards of 198, 196, 197 with the $199 rifle and Wal*Mart pellets. The 10-ring on the TYC target is .125” (1/8”) diameter.

How much more accurate is a PCP costing 10x more ($2,000) than my .177 Gauntlet going to be - and do you absolutely require higher performance? Very diminishing returns here...

Summary: Expensive items such as PCP air rifles, cameras, cell phones, watches, autos, etc are “worth it” if you get the level of enjoyment that you were hoping for… but they are often not “worth it” from a pure performance perspective.

Just the opinion of a guy who now has so many PCPs that he has lost count (truth).. but who is enjoying the heck out of them, lol - so “worth it” to me.

-Ed

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That’s awesome. You’re ready to get some of your old pants and be home. Let me know. I can tell you take care of your stuff whether there is expensive or cheap

Peashooter · Mar 22, 2025

Once again i have ordered 10 Boxes of 13 grain Zan.

JimD · Mar 22, 2025

I agree with "the machine" that more expensive guns will more easily give you a lot of fpe for the caliber but I don't think it's the quality of the materials or machining as much as it is the size of the air passages through the gun. My experience is limited to one >$1000 airgun and 5 <$500 but I was surprised the first time I had my Caiman X apart at how much bigger the valve and ports were than my P35s or Avenger. The Caiman made almost exactly the same fpe at a 100 bar reg pressure as my P35-22 makes at 145 bar. It just flows better. For pellets the Caiman did not need to flow better, it's favorite is an 18 grain and it easily pushes them 900 fps or more. But I've been messing with slugs a little and I turned it up to 120 bar for that and may go higher. I don't really need to shoot slugs but it's fun to see what it takes and what I can do.

While I agree more expensive guns tend to generate higher fpe more easily I also wonder whether that is necessary or wise. I mostly shoot in my yard and I don't really need more than 20 fpe for that. Slugs from my Caiman X will carry 1200 yards so I cannot sensibly shoot it without a good solid backstop. I need a deeper pellet trap too. Mostly I shoot 20-32 fpe airguns that use less air, make less noise, are just as accurate, and do nearly everything I want to do with an airgun. If you think that way, the extra fpe from more expensive guns just is not necessary. I often think of the guy that injured a motorist shooting at squirrels with an airgun. I don't know but I would be very surprised to learn it was a 20 fpe airgun. Especially as the power and range increase we need to be extra careful.

Zeke G. · Mar 22, 2025

This listing has been renewed

Peashooter · Mar 22, 2025

Without having checked every single one, there is 1 O-ring size and hardness that is shared in between the Epic airguns Two and a FX DRS.
SO ! i got 50 of those CUZ it is probably also in my Maverick somewhere ( not breech O-ring though i would assume they are the same size too )

The Two in its adjusted part of the valve have a 5x1,75 NBR 90 O-ring, the problem is i can find very few 1.75 in 90 shore, but i can find 1.78 mm

Fortunately this is the sort of bump stop O-ring on the valve stem, so not really a sealing one,,,,,, i have managed to blow one of those i think with way to aggressive hammer settings.
I now go for the most relaxed hammer setting setup, meaning from the get go i am dialed so far back that even at 56 BAR the valve can not be cracked by the hammer.

Thank god i do not have very many friends, or family for that matter, it seem i am often elevated to resident expert on some matters, but while i do like to help people it also frustrate the hell out of me when people are not even trying with fairly basic / simple stuff.

ShootingNewB · Mar 22, 2025

This listing has been renewed

Moe M. · Mar 22, 2025

2Ten said:
That's what I needed to hear, Moe. I started with the 177 Vantage. Then I decided to spring for a Mike Mellick R9 (because, hey, it's a fun hobby), but it was only available in 177 at the time. Not sure why I'd want a 22. I just thought it might be a cheap and easy switch.

By the way, what did you do to "smooth out the trigger?" I put a longer adjusting screw in mine, and that helped a lot. I may try the RC bearing thing one day.

Sorry about the lateness of my answer, No, I didn't go with a longer trigger screw, I found a U-Tube video that showed tow mods using bearings, the first used a small ball bearing from a roller blade skate, the second was a bearing cut from the barrel of a plastic ball point pen.
I didn't have quick access to the skate bearing but I did have a bunch of cheap ball point pens hanging around my workshop, so I cut a 1/4" slice of the plastic barrel and installed it in the trigger replacing the factory bent wire spring in the trigger group, I didn't have to remover the trigger assembly from the receiver, it only required removing two roll pins and the spring, inserting the plastic bearing, reinstalling the two pins that hold the trigger and bearing in place and joining the action back into the stock.
The whole job start to finish took me about 45 minutes and didn't need any adjustment when done like that has to be done when changing the trigger screw.
If you do choose to purchase another Vantage or .22 cal. Crosman Optima (the triggers are identical) you might want to look up the bearing mod on U-Tube and give it a try.
Another option you might consider is the Diana two fifty gas piston air rifle in .22 caliber, it's a bit more money at $150.00, but it needs no work, thee triggers are sweet, scopes are good quality, and the functioning is just about perfect when it comes to power, accuracy, and reliability, I have one in .177, my adult son has one in .22 cal., we purchased them last fall and they have been 100% reliable and shoot as well as my Weirauch rifles.

Rand0m44 · Mar 22, 2025

Hey all -

Went through Buck Rail and did the avenge x chassis upgrades (went from synthetic tube model. With the Leepers folding stock not being produced I went with a Law Tactical version (It was a knock off, but served its purpose. Easy peasy

Tried to do the same for Notos Ar conversion kit from Buck Rail - only problem is the folding stock is too close to the grip. Where can just a I find a simple 2” threaded spacer to go into the receiver? Or another option to not break the bank

Any help appreciated

xsarfc9x · Mar 22, 2025

Picked this up for cheap on eBay after the seller couldn't reseal it. Added a c88 valve and an FX liner kit. I have a .22 500mm superior liner in it now. It's doing about 45-50fpe with the reg set at 165bar. At 50m it shoots alot of stuff well but at 100m the 23g H&N .218 do the best.

I picked up a 700mm heavy and the extension as well so will test it next week.

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Gr8Recreation · Mar 22, 2025

Gotta have faith we’ll see the pendulum swing back to what works. Right now, they’re on the precipice of taking the same route the automotive market has taken, wanting to fill up their $ervice department$

blackdog899 · Mar 22, 2025

AirRanger said:
Trying for the life of me to get the new Huma regulator with XXL plenum to seal properly in my Daystate Huntsman revere, I have polished all surfaces where o-rings make contact, I tested the reg in a reg tester to make sure it was leaking out the vent hole on the reg, I have used lots of silicone grease but still air slowly leaks out of the base of the air tube just in front of the reg gauge, there is a small groove cut into the threads of the valve housing threads to allow the reg to vent to the atmosphere and somehow air still leaks, I’ve contacted Huma and they are machining me and new plenum with a deeper o-ring groove where the base of the plenum is supposed to seal against the face of the valve housing as I suspect that is where the problem lies. This gun came with a huma reg with small spacer and that seals with no issue but this new reg with XXL plenum just keeps slowly leaking so we’ll see if the new plenum works, I’m very gracious to Huma-Air for the way they have responded to my issue very solid of them for doing that. Here’s some pictures of what I’m working with.View attachment 549249 View attachment 549248 View attachment 549247

My above post was in reference to this. Does a larger plenum decrease overall shot counts?

SpiralGroove · Mar 22, 2025

phoenix_cow said:
I've been looking at .30 cal to take down some of the yote population I hunt at along with other pests (groundhogs mostly). And I'm really on the fence about what gun to get. I'm really thinking of getting an FX Maverick VP, seems to fill in everything I would want. Short, great aftermarket support, slug shooter, isn't super heavy, accurate (from what I heard), and more then enough power for me. But the price is a lot to take. I'm really worried about buyer remorse.

I've had 3 PCP rifles now, all under a grand (Avenge-X, Notos, and an AEA Element Max). And I have been happy with them. Are +1k guns really worth it? For that matter are +2k guns worth it? You guys/gals that bought these higher end guns, do you feel you got your money worth?

The Yes answer …… in your case is depends on “The Importance“ of getting rid of the Yotes?

For me, it’s nice to have at least one accurate, dependable, nice looking shooter.

In PCP’s (for the last 10 years) I’ve worked my way up from a BAM B50, QB78’s & QB79’s, AT44-10, BSA R-10 and then RAW HM1000x’s.

I’ve taken all these guns apart and modified them, understanding their differences as quality/price go up.

On most less expensive guns, you spend more time refining manufacture shortcuts needed to keep costs down, parts don’t fit as well or the design is over complicated as they couldn’t find a simpler way to build it. If you look at Weihrauch springers or RAW guns they are very cleverly designed, simple and bullet proof. Less expensive guns almost seem to have a planned obsolescence much like modern washers, refrigerators or dishwashers.

So if you need a gun to solve a specific problem, want it to be accurate, and stand the test of time, you must spend more for the design, materials, craftsmanship and accuracy these guns offer.

For folks that prefer not to tinker with their guns, getting a quality one right off the bat seems the most reasonable approach.
DO YOUR RESEARCH

.

That said, if you buy a gun and have buyers remorse, you can always sell for a reasonable price ……. if you take care of it.

I look at my Airguns as if they were coins or another valuable asset and take the utmost care of them. I wouldn’t take any less that 75%-80% of the cost upon resale.

So yes, airgun’s can be well worth $2K or more depending on how good they need to perform …..
or … buy something less expensive and spend your time modifying it to perform.

Peghead · Mar 22, 2025

Ievgen721 said:
This can't be. All Diana rifles produced after 1980 are designed for stop scope.You are probably confusing the screw at the end of the Diana dovetail, which is often cut off by the scope mount and is now missing. This screw has nothing to do with the scope stop.I can't explain everything right now, but there are at least two sсоpe stop options that I use.

It has two stops, but they are very shallow.

Longbrownbox · Mar 22, 2025

Super sharp video & loved to see that slug hit the mark!

Peghead · Mar 22, 2025

Ievgen721 said:
These bullets shoot great, probably the best bullets for 25J+ magnums, but they are no longer produced, and a NOS can of them costs $50-60 on eBay, so you will have to choose something else.

10g slugs. I actually have some Barracuda Match 10.65g. See how they work

shamu · Mar 22, 2025

Thanks guys for your comments. Very much appreciated

cpl666k9 · Mar 22, 2025

Decided to stay with an air rifle from someone in the states. Thanks for everyone’s comment's.

MarkWE · Mar 22, 2025

See new ad

blackbird1993 · Mar 22, 2025

I would be interested: which type of o-ring sets did you all use? I use this sort of set:

Is there a set others can recommend?

addison · Mar 22, 2025

This listing has been renewed

SniPeralez · Mar 22, 2025

This listing has been renewed

JaceSpace1369 · Mar 22, 2025

Perle said:
450mm

Total lengh with the Hugget minimagna is 30.5 in. It’s short … I think it’s my shortest

Wait, it's that long with the mod?? Damn that's a shorty!

JaceSpace1369 · Mar 22, 2025

Found out over the last couple days my Throne gen 2 .22 not only had a bad barrel but also suffers from a really bad hammer bounce. There is a lot of preload before it's even cocked, on top of the hammer weighing 60grams and the spring being too weak for it. So, I am on the quest for a heavy spring that's a bit shorter to hopefully fix it.

I also have a leak coming from the valve as it is no longer closing.

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