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Scotay42 · Friday at 3:33 PM

According to fx it doesnt need the fromt reg at 250 bar, just leave it wide open.

Normkel · Friday at 3:31 PM

Ezana4CE said:
See post #30.

No my question.

trapdoor2 · Friday at 3:22 PM

Years ago, I made 2X4 inverted "Ts" and slotted the vertical bit to accept "free" cloroplast political signs. Cheap, easy to store on the range. Duct Tape if the slot is too wide for friction fit on the sign material.

Conical_diabolo · Friday at 3:22 PM

Scotchmo said:
I’m considering going to this GP match. I’d like to know what the Troyer difficulty will be. An exact 36T for both rifle and pistol would make 100 GP points available to the winners of each class. Since I have a number of GP matches to choose from each year, I now tend favor those that are best for staying in the running for a GP championship points total.

Pistol course Troyer? And rifle course Troyer?

Exact 36T on both, done in the AAFTA course planner and double checked.

6gun · Friday at 3:12 PM

zerochance said:
I have the same question. I just bought a bunch of Crosman pellets. Looking to do some plinking.

New cphp or old? My disco loves those and it I had something to trade for old style cphp I might. The best pellet waster I have I couldn't in good conscience recommend, plus it's discontinued and riddled with small problems... My aea hpss can burn pellets up like nobody's business plinking semi auto. If you found one of those I'd send a couple replacment valves to trade for 2 tins of cphp

6gun · Friday at 3:09 PM

I bet there's an adapter to delete it or maybe the M4 adapter works (I don't know if it does) If it just keep creeping on you, try a huma up front or let it creep all it wants. I'm super glad I huma converted from the delrin piston amps on my m3.

If there's no atmospheric reference port, technically you could delete the internals. Im a fan of the dual regs, so I never looked around and thought out the delete. I hope this is of some use to you.

JimD · Friday at 3:05 PM

Great shooting Tommy. One of the issues I had with my Caiman when it was new was the cover over the pressure gauge kept falling off. Finally I looked at it closely and it was obvious the laminated wood stock was pushing the cover off the gauge. A little sanding like you describe for your fill issue and that issue was permanently resolved. My more long standing hobby is woodworking so that sort of issue is much more minor for me than things like figuring out why a regulator doesn't work properly. But it's fun to learn new things too.

MarkWE · Friday at 3:05 PM

This listing has been renewed

rodjava · Friday at 3:05 PM

Get yourself a digital gauge for your #2 regulator. Preferably one with a right angle adapter and mount it on the left side if you are shooting right handed. You will know for sure if there is any creep and when it happens. You will also notice how long it takes between shots to acheive a consitant psi reading between shots. You may or many not be suprised at what you find.

Scotchmo · Friday at 3:04 PM

I’m considering going to this GP match. I’d like to know what the Troyer difficulty will be. An exact 36T for both rifle and pistol would make 100 GP points available to the winners of each class. Since I have a number of GP matches to choose from each year, I now tend favor those that are best for staying in the running for a GP championship points total.

Pistol course Troyer? And rifle course Troyer?

6gun · Friday at 3:04 PM

Sleestak said:
At the very least you're gonna need a HPC in addition to the gun ....if you haven't factored that into the budget.

With a compressor rolled into that basket, I'd recommend the Marauder as a starter. It's a classic and you'll never really out grow it because it simply performs.

Owning a marauder myself, I'm tempted to steer you away from it unless it's side lever converted or semi auto. The rear bolt combined with the weight and size of the is kind of undesirable to me. I'm not a tiny guy either. At least stay away from the 25 mrod. (what I own)

OxHadrien · Friday at 2:58 PM

.25 Crow Magnum 820 fps.

These things slap

Hanzis · Friday at 2:55 PM

I see, understand the material removal is delicate is saw the chamber and you cannot hit the seal areas, so the only option is a round or corn shaped burr and steady hands-that is a fine piece of work to do. I have a spare mag i want to do that to but cannot quite really tell where the thin wall area is. I was going to just follow the walls and see how much i can remove or some what guess where the wall thins out probably on the wide side parallel to the magazine then remove more towards the front pellet direction and behind the pellet direction, I'm just guessing here. Or a sketch/diagram cross section might help ?
I see what you did with the barrel to stabilize, man nice job there, I have another Sig looks similar i extended the barrel length and have it inside the moderator to cover the length. Great pictures and guide for the right parts -- thank you! That a really good looking set up, inspiring to see what its potential is i will want to do a similar set up -- impressive!
If you can modify a mag for me I would be interested in that also ... Im in the US just let me know. Thanks

JimD · Friday at 2:54 PM

The only risk I worry about is operator error. The equipment might break and vent air in an unexpected manner but mine has not. I worry about me not venting pressure away before opening things. I've done that a couple times and been lucky but I think that is our biggest risk. I set up a dead head test of my YH once where I could not vent all the air (due to a one way valve on my second filter). Stupid but by the time I figured it out all I could do is point the dead head in a safe direction. The small bore hose did not have a lot of air and no harm was done. But more than we need safety gear we have to think about what we are doing and not get casual particularly about filling tanks and guns. If do not mess things up, there is a very good chance we will not need any safety gear. If we mess up bad enough even really good safety gear may not be enough protection. We Always, Always, Always have to vent off the pressure before we open things.

Gerry52 · Friday at 2:51 PM

OK, thanks, got it. Double male is what's needed.

Conical_diabolo · Friday at 2:50 PM

Diabolo here to remind you: the 2025 SOFT AAFTA Grand Prix is happening on September 12th in Ashland, Oregon!
Starting to make the order for the medals, t-shirts and purchasing food for the meals!

Pre-registration is required to have correct information and supplies. https://form.jotform.com/233436457185159
We need to normalize pre-registration for all events going forward to assist all match directors please!

Here is a current list of competitors and equipment being used. https://docs.google.com/.../1tKaXK7xAN.../edit...

Again, I would like to thank all of our sponsors for their continued support.
JSB Match Diabolo AirGun Oregon Dead Lead Air Co LLC Athlon Optics Jefferson State Air Rifles AAFTA - American Airgun Field Target Association

zerochance · Friday at 2:47 PM

I have the same question. I just bought a bunch of Crosman pellets. Looking to do some plinking.

Airgun Nation · Friday at 2:43 PM

Alrizzo said:
If you call TopGun Airguns, I’d recommend talking to anyone except Ricky. In my experience, he just wasn’t helpful, had an attitude, and even refused to honor the price listed on their own website for the Panthera Hunter Compact — instead saying it would be approximately $150 more. Really disappointing. In the end, my $2,900 purchase of rifle and accessories went to Utah Airguns instead.

Hi welcome to the forum. Being that this is your very first post, it should be noted that you've replied to a special ad from precisely 5 months ago. If you made this purchase 5 months ago, then it appears that your comment belongs in the Dealer Feedback section.

wooferocau · Friday at 2:41 PM

On the Impact M3, Can you just pull the "Guts" ( Piston assembly and adjuster) out of the front Reg Housing to effectively delete the front reg ??

What about the small bleed hole on the valve body?....will this vent with no internal s ?

Thanks.

Poopshoot55 · Friday at 2:41 PM

Going to be very hot tomorrow, I will be bringing a cooler full of water for everyone

dmw6455 · Friday at 2:39 PM

Today 4 shooters made it out in fairly good conditions.

markhooper · Friday at 2:33 PM

DonnyFL said:
Hey there airheads!

The other day we sent out an email talking about all the years of experience we’ve had working with airgunners around the world—chasing down the best sound suppression possible in the airgun game. We got some great responses back, and thought, why not bring the conversation here to Airgun Nation and keep it going?

One of the big topics that came up was how air volume and internal design, whether it’s a monocore or traditional baffle stack, actually affect the shot report. Sure, there are computer models that can predict airflow and potential decibel reduction, but the reality is airguns behave very differently than firearms. They have their own quirks in how large volumes of air get expelled and how we tame that sound. Even though DonnyFL and airgun suppressors in general have been around for a while now, the science of airgun silence is still very much evolving.

When Donny first started this company, it was a lot of good old-fashioned trial and error. Just the other day, Yolanda was reminiscing about those early days, how she and Donny would stand out in the field doing A/B tests, swapping moderators back and forth, and listening closely to the differences in tone and volume. No meters. No fancy charts. Just honest, real-world feedback about what our ears told us worked best.

Over time, we’ve added sound meters and other R&D tools to the process, but we’ve learned something important: feedback from real shooters still matters more than any number on a screen. A meter might tell you it’s “quieter,” but your ears can reveal something completely different, especially downrange.

So how do you choose the right suppressor? It’s not as simple as picking the “quietest” one on the list. Caliber and power tuning matter, a hot-rodded .22 PCP can be just as loud, or louder, than a .22LR rimfire. Barrel system design plays a role too. Shorter barrels often have a sharper, louder report, while longer barrels can be sensitive to weight on the muzzle and may not play nicely with a heavy suppressor.

Then there’s how you actually use your rifle. In competition, suppression might not be the top priority, you might be more focused on how a suppressor can influence barrel harmonics. On the other hand, if you’re pesting in your backyard or working in a sound-sensitive area, maximum suppression becomes a must-have.

The quick and dirty rule is that more internal volume usually means better airgun suppression. But that’s oversimplifying it. Tone matters just as much, and in some cases, going with a really long moderator may hurt the balance or handling of your rifle.
We’re working on a comprehensive air rifle suppressor selection guide to help make those decisions easier. In the meantime, we want to hear from you. The best part about the DonnyFL community has always been the feedback we get from real shooters. We started out as a grassroots company right here in the online forums, and that community-first approach will always be part of who we are.

So, how do you judge airgun suppressor effectiveness? Is it tone, volume, group size, or a mix of everything? Got a favorite testing method you trust? Let’s make this thread a go-to resource for anyone looking to get the most out of their airgun sound suppression. Also, check out our full lineup of airgun moderators and air rifle suppressors!

View attachment 585435

I have a Donny FL shogun that I got for my 22 caliber airforce Condor.. it's internal bore where the pellet comes out is 0.357
now if think that if it was a smaller diameter it would silence better.. like 0.25 instead of 0.357..
Mark

doninva · Friday at 2:32 PM

I have a .177 akela for sale. The gun gets 100 shots at an average of 850fps with 10.5 Crosman pellets before it drops off the regulator. Gun is back yard friendly. Included is the 14 shot magazine and a sorta crude looking single shot tray but it works flawlessly. I will take 450.00 shipped to lower 48. Perfer the gift option or add 3%. I will also except a USPS money order, gun held till it clears.The following mods have been done.
1.) I installed a Lane regulator set at 1650psi. The gauge, on the gun shows the regulator pressure.
2.) Made and installed as ssg. Will send original hammer adjuster and spring in the box.
3.) Polished and adjusted the trigger to a nice two stage trigger.
4.) Bought and installed a barrel band ( attaches to shroud)

pteracota · Friday at 2:31 PM

Clark33 said:
Hi,
I think I can make the modifications on the magazine for you. I’ll send you an email as soon as I have some time probably at the end of August or the beginning of September.

You should know that changing only the spring is not enough to increase the power and simply doesn’t work. It’s essential to machine the inside of the magazine head to gain volume, but above all to completely rework the valve. If you only use a softer spring, the valve can’t close properly after being struck by the striker due to the pressure and its very small outlet holes. The result is that after the first shot, all the CO2 is released and escapes through this valve.

When I received the Glock, I first tried to change only the valve spring, but on this model, it doesn’t work because the stock valve is too restrictive. I wasted about fifty CO2 cartridges testing every spring possible without success. Only after enlarging the valve I was able to use a softer spring without malfunction. The valve only accepts softer springs after modification.

I would be interested in buying a modified magazine. Although it would need to be limited to 6 ftlbs as i’m in the UK.

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FX M3 Front Reg Question ( Delete via internals removal)

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