Sleestak said:

That would be a big nah from me too.

They are the most unused accessory in the world of PCP shooting.

Call me lame but I'd rather shoot my springers or Sheridans if it came down to having to hand pump

FWIW, I have a Hill Evo 350 that's awesome for direct fill a CX CS4 for lazy filling of big tanks and an expendable Yong Heng for rage filling. In a way you get what you pay for...even w HPCs

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Well, I've only got the one air rifle, so far. For now, I just have to make trips to the local shop for refills of my mini tank. If that becomes too much of a chore, I'll likely get a compressor to fill the tank. I'm just not going to use a manual pump at this point in my life.

But if I am out of air and want to go to the range, I'll just pick some of my "powder burners" to shoot. That's more of a dilemma, because I've got a fair number of those vying for my attention, and I can only bring so many! Decisions, decisions! Rifles? Pistols? Calibers?

Corvid_hunter said:

If you can get over the hi-cap necessity, Daystate Red Wolf in .177cal is pretty good. If you search for an old post of mine you will find the shot count string I did. I don't remember exactly how many it was, but it was a lot.

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I had a Redwolf once.
Some things I liked but more than anything was the almost non existent cocking effort and that there was a aftermarket cocking arm that was made for it. Arzrover has some of them which I've tried on his RW's before and to me it makes a huge difference in appeal for the RW.

There's really nothing I found negative about the RW in particular but at the same time it didn't fit my short LOP well, I didn't like to charge it up, mine didn't shoot but mediocre at best(could have been the various batches of 22 cal MRD's back then), and so I found myself leaving it in the safe much of the time.

The two other Eguns I have/ and had/ have given me problems. One was a Daystate Panther and the Skout EVO. My darn EVO is a great gun in so many ways but it can't be counted on to stay working, I love it and hate it at the same, lol.

igolfat8 said:

I do not think heat really helped although i was not able to get it to budge before without heat, so??? I had two punches, stuck in opposing holes in the end cap, then twisted as hard as I could and the cap finally began to move. It was EXTREMELY tight and I am not sure why it needed to be that tight?

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Finally got the shroud of as well… with what I would call brute force. Put a long 6mm allen key in there, clamped the rifle between my legs and went at it… and the metal of the end cap actually scratched quite a bit and got indentations from the Allen key. Man was that thing tight. HOWEVER, it basically unscrewed the baffles from the barrel instead of the cap from the shroud?! Meaning when I pulled the shroud of the baffles etc went with it and only barrel was left on the gun. Was it the same for you? Videos I saw are with the “in shroud mod” still on the barrel…

Hateful McNasty said:

Why would it get locked ? Is it political or something?

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I wondered the same thing

.22 caliber using JSB 18.13gr pellets, a common baseline tune includes:

• Regulator 1: 150 bar
• Regulator 2: ~120 bar
• Valve Adjuster: Line 4 position
• Hammer Spring Wheel: Setting 3
• Power Wheel: Max
• Expected Velocity: ~890 fps1

As a manufacture , I would give a China company the blueprints and they would build my product the exact specifications . If China skimps on quality it would be because i told them to skimp . Otherwise the Chinese company would go out of business , just like any other company in the world .
Now if it is solely a China blueprint and spec's then it is their product .

shambozzie said:

+1 on everything Trucker3573 said. Add agood range finder and bingo.

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Oh yeah def need the range finder. Have to know the distance..lol. OP I would just pick a distance you are comfortable that you are going to shoot pellets into the same spot for your zero. That is very important especially your up and down. Needs to be on. I then roughly estimate with calipers my scope height. Then I move the target really close like 10 yards. Put your info (BC , speed, scope height and zero range) into a calc. Then punch in 10 yards for distance. Dial up what it tells you. Shoot at 10 yards. If your POI height is off adjust your scope height in the app until your poi is spot on matching the dial that the calc gave you. When doing that step do not touch scope elevation turret ( after you dial the scope for 10 yard dist according to calculator)only change scope height in the calculator. After that you should find everything is pretty darn close as long as your gun is shooting approx the same speed and the bc info is good. I don’t have a chrono that calculates BC so I use the number in the element app. Seems to work well out to the max 73 yards I have in my experiences.

Man, a ton of awesome targets guys!

This listing has been renewed

Caleb2424 said:

My 109 yard group with 22 maverick I was aiming for the white dot. Not my tree so I couldn’t go measure. This was JTS dead center 25 grain.

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nice group, I see you got the white dot in the end

Racer88 said:

I briefly considered getting one as a "back-up." And then... I changed my mind.

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That would be a big nah from me too.

They are the most unused accessory in the world of PCP shooting.

Call me lame but I'd rather shoot my springers or Sheridans if it came down to having to hand pump

FWIW, I have a Hill Evo 350 that's awesome for direct fill a CX CS4 for lazy filling of big tanks and an expendable Yong Heng for rage filling. In a way you get what you pay for...even w HPCs

Pretty cool. Glad I made it before the lock of this thread.

Moke said:

Me too.

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me 3

It will come soon enough. Just participate like you aren’t wanting to buy that gun in the classifieds and it will all unlock before you know it. I can assure whatever you are looking to buy there will be more and as soon as you grab something another one that is a better deal or something completely different that is a screaming deal will pop up very soon after you purchase. It’s like an unforeseen rule.

I vote Yes. It seems to me that the Red Panda's price is if anything a bit lower than other airguns with similar performance in competition. If I wanted a benchrest gun for competition it would be on the short list.

I also like the fact that it is a "manufactured in China" gun that competes with the best. I do not think my under $500 airguns built in China are equivalent to airguns costing 3X as much but I don't think the difference is as big as some want to suggest.

thunderxt1 said:

I still can't private message someone.. plz help

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the rule say Quality posts , I think more as Conversational posts
What gun do you have or plan on having and where can you shoot ?

coastal drifter said:

where you from ,what you shooting?

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ya dont say

etothen said:

You need to make a spreadsheet my friend. Then you can graph it all out together. My setup is pretty jankey. Cheap Chinese Chrono that I read the numbers from of into my phone as the FPS shows up. I then read the them off the phone and into Google docs and the spreadsheet I made auto populates running a average of the last five shots and the standard deviation against the string comprising the shots from that fill of the string and I add in the Hammer spring settings so I can see how that evolves.

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That's the last 450 shots graphed out all using voice recognition because lazy...

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Yeah … that ain’t gonna happen.
Ill make do with what I know haaao

Gerry52 said:

The ones pictured are the OLD & RARE Hatsan Vortex pellets (no longer made). As good as JSB's at the time. The newer Vortex Strike SUCK! Don't even bother. Stick with a Diabolo (not Diablo) 44.75. Diabolo is your standard pellet shape.

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That makes sense! I was going to say i tried a tin of vortex pellets and they were garbage. The tin was full of lead shavings.

I test in wet paper. An old outdoor writer/professional hunter named Finn Aagard recommended it as a reasonable simulation of muscle tissue. Mostly I am interested in penetration. Holes that do not reach vitals don't kill well. But if you have enough penetration a wider hole could be helpful to make the target bleed out faster and minimize wasted energy if it penetrates through. I like to see a minimum of 7 to 10 magazines (at about 80 pages per magazine) for small game. If the gun and projectile don't provide that much I don't use it on game (or only on smaller game like birds).

etothen said:

You need to make a spreadsheet my friend. Then you can graph it all out together. My setup is pretty jankey. Cheap Chinese Chrono that I read the numbers from of into my phone as the FPS shows up. I then read the them off the phone and into Google docs and the spreadsheet I made auto populates running a average of the last five shots and the standard deviation against the string comprising the shots from that fill of the string and I add in the Hammer spring settings so I can see how that evolves.

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That's the last 450 shots graphed out all using voice recognition because lazy...

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Love the way you did it would you mind sharing the spreadsheet having a beauty and just cost me an awful lot of time and stress it’s all right fill it up by hand and I like with the deep with your spreadsheet. It’s very comprehensive and at the same time it keeps you all thermometers you’ll ever want. Let me know how I can get a copy of it from you

Nice setup. Thanks for sharing. New comers will enjoy the length and girth.