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jpiperson2002 said:

There are lots of good Huben threads out there already.

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I started this post as a Taipan Slash thread.

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

1handwill.gc said:

That was an awesome video. How much are you gonna sell it now that is used

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This particular one I did not get to keep. But I liked it so much I bought it. So it's going in the glass case. I won't sell it until I accidentally drop it on the pavement or it falls out of my car while I'm driving or something like that. In my life that is a real thing. The virtus 22 I reviewed, I accidentally ran over it with my truck on the way to mail it. I told the guy who was buying it and he said quit messing with me. It was mostly okay so he took it anyway and I gave him a few bucks off.



Those are some of the guns that made the cut.

I've been messing with regulators for awhile with some success. But I had to think about what was going on more with a couple SPA regulators that were not working and I think I finally understand basically what is going on with the regulators I have in my SPA guns which work the same as the Huma in my Caiman.

The basic functionality is just a piston formed by the shaft the spring washers are on that has a plastic disc on the top that interacts with the end of the adjustment screw. The "piston" closes the valve formed between the plastic disc and the end of the stem when the air pressure in the regulated chamber raises high enough. The spring washers are pushing to open the valve. So if you increase the force from the washers by turning the adjustment screw clockwise it takes less pressure in the regulated chamber to close the valve. That's why you turn clockwise to lower the regulator. I think it's a good idea to make sure you can easily move the stem with the washers up and down after you finish servicing a regulator. The air has to be able to move it. There will be a little resistance but if there is too much it won't seal and the gun will be unregulated. That is what happened to my SPA regulators. I didn't put enough silicone grease on this area.

kaylaindy said:

Got $2500 burning a hole in your pocket? Here you go:

This aint' no Western Sidewinder...way nicer. Worth the $, if you got it to spend, in my opinion. Best slug shooter out there for sure. Thanks for watching! -Nate

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That was an awesome video. How much are you gonna sell it now that is used

We use a 12" or 14" aluminum plate or steel disk/gong at 160 meters, usually under windy conditions. Those can be 100% hits with pellets, off the bench with front & rear bags. The aluminum plate has a much nicer and louder ring to it.

40, 60, 77 @ 100 meters, we use .22 rimfire metallic silhouettes hung from two chains. Good fun.

The 100 meter ram needs to be of lighter material in order for it to move well. IIRC, 1/8" steel.

We also shoot disks at 125, 135, 145 metres, hung from chains onto steel rods, up the rock slide at the end of the range.

The steel disk is an old cut/off wheel with 126 hits at 160 meters, despite the wind. We repaint after every day's shooting.
IDK if that is of any value for your shooting.

Daisy model 25, then a Crosman 760, and then a Crosman 2100. Crosman 2100 was actually a great gun and I put many thousands of pellets down the barrel.
R

Yeah it sucks but we know going in that Hikmicro is unwilling to support US sales. I'd love to try one, but no way am I jumping thru hoops to buy someone's products. Doesn't seem to make sense as the US market would seem to be substantial...who knows?

There are lots of good Huben threads out there already.

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Same experience as above.

The cylinder end pieces are aluminum, and on the fill end the holes to accept the 4 drive pins in the removal tool are not drilled very deep.
Cylinder was clamped in a sized collet and a breaker bar was used to turn the removal tool. I made a witness mark, and then managed to do nothing more than mangle the end cap to the point that the only remaining method of removal would be boring it out. It did not rotate at all......
Heat= no effect
Lots of rotational torque= no effect

Just got a new trigger with rail section from Rustic Industrial Customs. Put it on the GK1 shorty i got, the light/laser sits right where it should now. And the fit and quality are top notch.

Reg or hammer settings.

You can get an inexpensive 1:1 spa pp750 reg from ebay. Sometimes regs will creep during fill. Your hammer may be low in the range. But sounds like youre creeping. Your reg may be set ridiculously high because that's how unregged guns behave.


Have you screwed your hammer spring adjuster all the in/out

The first shots are they really quiet?

One thing no one can gripe about w/ FX guns is you can go to the website and download any guns exploded view and get all the oring sizes.

My P35-177 has killed the most squirrels in my yard for exactly the reason suggested by Reg Creep. Chairgun will calculate your maximum range and it is a good thing to check, particularly before shooting squirrels up in trees. A safe direction to shoot is always required but at some angles the difference between the 300 yards or so the 177 can carry and the 500 to 600 the higher power 22s and 25s can carry puts things I would not want to impact into the potential path. If you limit yourself to shots on the ground or with the tree behind the squirrel you can also shoot safely regardless of how far the pellet could potentially fly.

Dstrac said:

Last time I had trouble with not being able to adjust a scope it was some cheap utg scope rings causing the issue. A one piece cantilever scope mount can provide a solid way to attach to a rail.

What about something like this 20 moa mount.

Amazon.com: DISCOVERYOPT Heavy Duty Cantilever Scope Mount, One-Piece 20 MOA Picatinny Offset Dual Ring 30mm 34mm Scope Mount : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: DISCOVERYOPT Heavy Duty Cantilever Scope Mount, One-Piece 20 MOA Picatinny Offset Dual Ring 30mm 34mm Scope Mount : Sports & Outdoors

a.co

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Every single time for me it has happened with a very reliable scope all of a sudden needing 90moa /30 mrad of elevation to hit paper. Every times its happened ive either mix and matched rings or tried crap rings or using a rail riser. Tighten everything to spec. Grab some rings you've had work on something else or a scope you know is 100% chances are it isn't the optic, almost never is.

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Conrod said:

Now that is kool! Got a link to utube that explains how?

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The owner's manual Page 2 under Directions for use: 1. Machine test, Attention: <cuation symbol> 1. Note - describes adjusting the "Safety Valve"

This video shows how to adjust: https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...B3C0975A101DF9370B60B3C0975A101DF&FORM=VAMGZC

I couldn't agree more with every word!
I still have a Brk Sniper HR I bought used on here a good while ago. It is bulletproof. If I ever doubt a scope, I slap it on that rifle and it tells the tale. Never a hiccup, just dead accurate.

I also had a Katran and it was my introduction to Airmaks and it just puts a smile on your face every time.