so, first off they do not have a soft material piston seal, they do have a metal ring on the cylinder
now the buffer at the on the cylinder is old because in can see thought TP it is cream in color
so, question are you a very good air gun smith if not you should send in out and when the interial buffer is change the breech seal can also be changed
now hold should you change the breech seal without taking the rifle apart
with some very good DENTAL picks will it be easy hell no but you cut and pick the old seal out clean up the mess and i do mean clean up the mess
where to find the seal
many sell a kit and that will have the internal buffer and the breech seal and a new piston ring, in my view the piston ring is not needed as they have a 100,000 shot life span
many sell the breech seal for 30-35 bucks to pricy Knibbs has them but they have been offline all day
here is your best bet and the price is very fair

https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/6889471.htm

dig the breech seal out and replace it but the internal buffer will need to be change at some point
if it is still whole it will last for a while

OldVet said:

About the AR15 yes that is true as long as it was permanently attached it counted as barrel length. On a Guantlet the rifled barrel is covered by a shroud these are 2 separate things you can't say the Guantlet has a 281/4" barrel. It is 231/2" the shroud is 28.

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I agree that what the gauntlet has isn’t a 28.25” barrel. It’s just a shroud over a shorter barrel. I was just trying to clarify that the barrel should be one continuous piece of metal, or perhaps one continuous laminate, but isn’t necessarily measured by the rifled portion or the portion that contacts the projectile.

Barb and I will be there…..I think she is shooting long range only so you full Monte folks have a chance at gold

Tony P.

Since I'm between projects right now and waiting on parts, I resurrected to Reximex pistol project. Cut some aluminum bar stock and sketched rough layout so I can start hogging out extra mat'l to lighten it. Plan is to use 1911 grip panels. Also I opened it to show my trigger job on it. Shoe return spring cut 1.5 coil off, secondary sear block spring I got off my Q-jet rebuild kit, and I ground the secondary sear to drop early. Hardly any noticeable creep now.

Umair .Please take care of yourself, rest up and feel better,its the good guys like you that make this the best air gun site going ,wishing you a speedy recovery Pat

Avator said:

Can I ask why you feed the coons in the first place?

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So I can eliminate them. They cause a lot of property damage and swim and $hit in my pool!
Now I planting a vegtable garden have to keep critters in check.
Therefore I'm proactive.

RabbitofCaerbannog said:

It’s rated for higher than 850 with 25.4s out of the box? Damn. at 850 you’ve got a 40 foot pound .22 5fps spread is good. im pretty sure the reg on the gauntlet is at 1900psi for .22 youd be shooting 18s dang near 960. Anyway, if you start increasing hammer spring just watch what the spread does and listen to the tone of the shot. If you start seeing much heavier air usage higher pressure Might be needed. you can only go so far on the hammer spring at a pressure Before you just wasting a ton of air for little gain.

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I never touched the hammer spring as I'm going to find some better pellets.

Cut some aluminum bar stock for my Reximex pistol grip project. Laid rough sketch on it as I will hog it out to lighten it and use 1911 panels.

CharlieF said:

I think we may be pole vaulting over mouse droppings.

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I like the metaphor of pole vaulting but let’s postpone, at least for awhile, the question of what we are vaulting over…

Sawney Bean said:

Barrel length should be the length of the solid portion of the tube the pellets travel through. It doesn't have to be rifled and the pellets or bb's don't even need to be in contact with it, but it should be one continuous piece of metal. There have been guns made in the past with barrels that open up halfway down the bore so that the total length is very long but the pellets only contact the bore in the first few inches. I believe the intention was to provide a long sight radius while keeping the lock time/barrel time as short as possible. It was also quite common with defensive rifles in order to meet the 16" minimum barrel length requirement. They'd make the last 4" or so of the barrel some sort of permanently attached flash suppressor.

Click to expand...

About the AR15 yes that is true as long as it was permanently attached it counted as barrel length. On a Guantlet the rifled barrel is covered by a shroud these are 2 separate things you can't say the Guantlet has a 281/4" barrel. It is 231/2" the shroud is 28.

Marker said:

Hi... It's Marker...I keep looking at your RPA...Question...is that a Pistol Scope..or is a rifle scope with a 3" eye relief...and is that scope only being held on just by the rear mount only and is the front mount there just for show ...just Curious

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Yes it is a rifle scope. I only put it on to mockup and see if a pp750 rear scope dove tail would work. I end up using a fixed 4X scope with parallax adjustment down to 5 yards, it has 7-9'' eye relief, so a Taco hold is required.

TimeSniper said:

I’ll have to reach out to Clayton, I’ve gone and checked out his store but it was closed. I believe it’s because he was at airgun Oregon for the comp last year.

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Hey hey, whats going on? Im down for a shoot sometime.

-Clayton

If that one is that bad I can grantee the piston seal is just as bad if not worse.

There are videos on rebuilding them. Not that bad if you are mechanical. Just lots of little clips and specific order of assembly. I have done both of mine in the kitchen table with success.

Norcal said:

So, fishgod - did you get your Zelos .22? If so, how's it shooting for you?

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Sorry for taking a while to get a proper update. I wanted to get any issues sorted before posting

I'm in Canada so I bought the Zelos .22 through Wes at Airgun Archery Fun, as well as a bottle adapter. Stand up guy, no problems there. The gun itself was flawless, however the bottle adapter was leaking at 2 out of 3 orings. The adapter to bottle connection oring was too small and unable to make a seal. (2.4mm thickness instead of the 3.1mm which I replaced it with). Also the fill valve oring had a large gash in it so I replaced it with a new identical one. Managed to get both at a local hydraulic store who didn't even bother to charge me for them since they were such small items.

After a thorough barrel cleaning, the gun is shooting excellent. As I want a fairly high shot count, I turned the pressure down to about 1600psi which had the JSB 18.13 (the most accurate pellet out of the ones I tried) shooting extremely accurately at 895-900fps.

Tuning it was a bit trickier as it seems the stock hammer spring was too stiff to have any usable adjustment at this lower pressure. Increasing spring turns was not giving any adjustment, in fact, it was slightly decreasing fps as the spring increased. I read about this on a different thread about the zelos and copied the shorter replacement spring suggested. This gave me adjustability from 500fps to well past the peak curve. I managed to tune it properly and the consistency of the fps increased, as well as the efficiency.

Shot count is excellent for me. After tuning, I get around 80 shots at full pressure, and the 700cc bottle I swap to afterwards gives me at least 200 more shots. So I am able to have close to 300 shots total at 900fps.

Accuracy is also excellent in my opinion. At 30 yards, a grouping of 5 shots makes one larger hole, about twice the size as the diameter of the pellets. I'd be pretty confident in being able to hit a literal pea or corn kernel 9/10 times at that distance. At 50 yards, they are less than 1/2 inch center to center. At 75 yards I get about 1 inch center to center. Anything beyond that distance and the wind played too much of a factor to give a fair rating.

Final thoughts: I'm extremely pleased with the gun once I got everything sorted out. The shot count is much better than I had hoped, so I may play around with increasing the pressure a little bit more. Accuracy has been great even in a light breeze, although I haven't had a dead calm day to try 100+ yard shots for fun. The trigger after adjustment is also very nice and light with in my opinion, a short and crisp second stage.

Happy to discuss anything else about it more, thanks again everyone for all the input!

2 Cards

FX Panthera 700mm .22 cal, JSB 25.39gr unsorted, windy condition and target distance from firing line to target stand is 55.33 yards.

I don’t know if I scored them correctly

Video proof:

This listing has been renewed

Ta-Ta Toothie said:

Rarely shoot paper, but here's one with swaged slugs. 50y, 6-5 shot groups done an hour ago. Corbin .218 rbt 35.5 @ 987.

View attachment 557110

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Spectacular groups with the swaged slugs!

ARW said:

Thanks.....Yeah, I just ordered it this evening and am super pumped about this setup and can't wait to get it and start shooting it. I kept hearing for a while about BRK coming out with a slug barrel for the Ghost and they finally did. If it shoots anything like my current Ghost, I will be very happy. This barrel is 28 inches long compared to the original 23 inch also.

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That's a perfect length barrel for easy added power! I am sure that barrel will sling slugs with great accuracy! I hope you post some pics of shots and thoughts when you get it . Again, congrats!

This listing has been renewed

Barrel length should be the length of the solid portion of the tube the pellets travel through. It doesn't have to be rifled and the pellets or bb's don't even need to be in contact with it, but it should be one continuous piece of metal. There have been guns made in the past with barrels that open up halfway down the bore so that the total length is very long but the pellets only contact the bore in the first few inches. I believe the intention was to provide a long sight radius while keeping the lock time/barrel time as short as possible. It was also quite common with defensive rifles in order to meet the 16" minimum barrel length requirement. They'd make the last 4" or so of the barrel some sort of permanently attached flash suppressor.

Gwhite said:

All my HT-X3006 adapters are already out there: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6977381
I think I can just create a single dovetail adapter that fits the Nate, which would allow reusing the mounts I designed for the HT-X3006.
I want to be able to use the sights on the pistol when firing. What is the distance between the sensor bore-line and the top of the Nate Chrony? If it's more than ~ 1.5 cm, how big is the sensor area? On the HT-X3006, I can offset the pellet path a few mm to get the sights above the housing.

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The distance from center to top is ~15mm & bottom is roughly the same, however alignment is absolutely critical (new software has alignment detection though - so you can detect if there's an issue)
I would not recommend to use the outer surfaces on the Chrony as a reference point, and only recommend using the center bore as the reference.

Also looking at the designs - they're most likely not rigid enough & you'll see errors in fps with the NateChrony. To get the accuracy, I have to detect on a certain part of the pellet, if there's vibrations/movement the front sensor may detect on a different part of the pellet to the rear - at best it'll be variances of ~5fps, worst it'll be 50-70fps (assuming ~500fps speeds).
The adapters will need some form of bracing/contact top/bottom to secure them enough.

Well If I remember correctly 1.75 turns out should be about 145 bar or slightly less
I've used those regs a lot in the past and even made a custom reg tester for that reg

Max out presser on those regs is about 2800-2850 PSI give or take a little

Sawney Bean said:

If I were in the market for one I would jump on that, but I just can't bring myself to spend that kind of money for any airgun. Maybe an original Girandoni.

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If it was a lefty.....I would have lit my jeans on fire from getting my wallet out so fast!