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Homebrew FX Chrony display

Sometimes, folks that are maintaining free software libraries don't feel particularly compelled to maintain backwards compatibility. Especially across major revisions. Even big companies (looking at you, Oracle) sometime make changes that break backward compatibility. "We never liked javax.activation being in the core libraries anyway, so we took it out. Good luck!"

I'm bringing myself up to speed on arduino, ESP32, etc, because among other reasons the libraries have changes, and some of the code is broken now. Plus I was wanting to dabble in arduino (ESP32 is very similar), and I thought that e-ink display was way cool.

Interesting Groups

Actually, most of your groups are not that bad for 30 yrds. I shoot at 30 meters and find it a good challenge if I am not paying attention and doing my part. Are you just testing pellet accuracy, tuning your rifles, or somthing in between? Going between a 25.4 gr pellet and a 14.66 gr pellet as you did with the P35X will probably result in very similar outcomes to what you got from most rifles. That is a huge swing in weight, velocity, and trajectory. On the P35X, have you polished the barrel yet? Most Chinese barrels are good but a bit rough from the manufacturers. For what it's worth, I have started to size my pellets with a simple push through unit for a better consistancy in size.
I weigh to 1/10 grain increments which seems to reduce the number of flyers.

I have a 5.52 sizer (die and pusher) that was given to me but haven't found that sizing to that size has helped my two Streamlines. It has been quite some time, and we usually fight wind at our range, so should revisit the sizing. When I have purchased specifically sized batches, the results have been inconclusive.

As must be evident, I am still going around on these questions, despite that some are convinced.

Newbie (with physical limitations) needs your Experienced Input/Confirmation Please

Hi Everyone,
I will try to keep it short. 😊
Typically use my break barrel rifle( .22 cal pellet )to keep the squirrel population under control; however, my brain got zapped by a stroke back in May and have temporarily loss function of my (dominant) right arm & hand 🤣. My pump pistol has my leg all bruised and is a single shot. A PCP is what I’m thinking I need. Max distance should be in the neighborhood of 30-35 yds.
I need it to be plug & play and low maintenance as much as possible.
Here’s the present idea:

1. Diana Bandit .177 -EDIT - I will be using while standing at back door and steady pistol against left door jamb. Maybe carbine when I get better 😄
(https://www.pyramydair.com/product/diana-bandit-black-pcp-air-pistol?m=6348#13154)
2. Red Dot Optic - The 11 mm dovetail should make it plug and play
(https://www.pyramydair.com/product/hawke-red-dot-sights-vantagerd-1x20-9-11mm-3-moa-dot?a=8971).
OR
3. Scope - I really like zooming in but never had one on a pistol - don’t even know if it would fit and work well. Really need help here
4. Compressor- GX PUMP CS3 PCP Air Compressor https://gxpumpofficial.com/products/gx-cs3-pcp-air-compressor?variant=41717596291243
(hard to change mind on this since previously recommended on this forum). Not sure if connection to gun is compatible?
5. Anything Else? What am missing? I got some pellets
Thanks for your Help!
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Skout  Everything Skout EVO and Epoch

Very interesting, as I have always wondered about the air path taken through the gun, but I can't seem to see the path in relation to the regs?
Yeah, I don’t entirely understand it either and why all of those set screws are there as well 🤷‍♂️
I would really like a smart person with computer skills to make a animation of the whole process
I’m sure somewhere scout has an actual animation from their design process. It would be cool if they could share it….. if it exists😉
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RTI  Mora .357 issues

Hi,

it was never meant to tension the barrel using that technique... It just has to be tight in order to not get any air blast to the face. But with the new clamp (which you have), it has an oring which makes sure you don't get air blasted. The front cap is on there very tight. So with the new clamp you don't have to unscrew the front cap in order to take the shroud off, but you can take off that second oring which you mentioned and take the shroud off from the rear (of course you need to take the whole barrel out of the gun first). So that second oring serves like a C clamp to lock the shroud on there.

That large thin nut disassambled whole valve assembly. In order to adjust dwell time, you have to move that part which you said moves freely, so either by using a hex tool which you insert in the middle or something smaller which you put in thru the sides holes and then turn that knob.

Skout  Everything Skout EVO and Epoch

So, now to completely overwhelm everyone with chasing rabbits 🐇 🤪🤪
here is an interesting diagram from Skout about the lower frame and the air path from the bottle.
it “appears“ that there are a number of small allen screws along the frame. it’s possible that one or many of them could leak.
I believe that they used Red lock tight.
unfortunately, the only way to check them is to take the whole upper half of the gun off. 😳
I’ve done it before, but the three screws are a little awkward to get at if you don’t want to take your scope off.

View attachment 584515
Very interesting, as I have always wondered about the air path taken through the gun, but I can't seem to see the path in relation to the regs?

Diana  Springer Shooting Technique

My way of shooting the 350 Magnum:
80/20 rule, I use 80 percent of the total grip strength for the grip itself, and only around 20 percent goes into the forend stock; buttpad to shoulder contact = Average force or a hair lighter.
This is mostly for off-hand shooting and general walk-around and shoot situations. (Your mileage may vary)

Final words:
It's about follow-through, while trying not to mess with the vibrations.
Go for a hold that you're mostly comfortable with, so you can do it repeatedly.

You and your Magnum, ENJOY.

Taipan  Taipan Slash first tuning report.

Here's my Slash shot string from a few days ago that I would like to share..... I'm very pleased with it.

Taipan Slash Tactical Compact .22
  • Fill Range: 290 bar - 170 bar
  • Reg Setting: 165 bar
  • Pellets: AEA 25.3
  • FPE: 50.5
  • Total Shots: 58
  • ES: 28
  • SD: 5.1
A couple of notes:
  • Notice that shot's 1 and 37 are a little higher.
  • I have three 12-round pellet magazines, so must reload after shot 36 which takes 4-5 minutes.
  • Removing those two 'first' shots would lower ES and SD a bit.

Accuracy is excellent with this semi-auto. I was able to hit my 90 yard 1" target 7 times in a row from a bench... best I've ever done with any PCP including my excellent Huben K1's.

The superb Taipan trigger, plus being able to keep my eye on the target without movement or cock between shots is the key I think.

Taipan Slash - Shot String - AEA 25.3 - 205-08-06.jpg

Dust Cover fo FX DRS Probe

ThankYou ! I was just thinking I should have a cover for my DRS fill probe .
I was looking for one but didn’t like the design or price on a piece of plastic with a hole in it. It was pretty simple, just needed a little trial and error to get the sizing right, a tenth of a millimeter makes all the difference. It’s a 6.6mm hole for the 1st 26mm and 6.1mm for the bottom part.

Skout  Everything Skout EVO and Epoch

So, now to completely overwhelm everyone with chasing rabbits 🐇 🤪🤪
here is an interesting diagram from Skout about the lower frame and the air path from the bottle.
it “appears“ that there are a number of small allen screws along the frame. it’s possible that one or many of them could leak.
I believe that they used Red lock tight.
unfortunately, the only way to check them is to take the whole upper half of the gun off. 😳
I’ve done it before, but the three screws are a little awkward to get at if you don’t want to take your scope off.

IMG_7689.jpeg
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Hornets nest

Great instructional video and how to remove harness Nest safely with a proper equipment and planning. However don't find too many of those videos on YouTube because you won't get it as many clicks as if you doused it with gasoline and hit it with a flamethrower. Which can be done in relative safety since it was only three in the outdoors. Although you would have lost more of the tree potentially.

I'm too cheap to buy all that safety equipment. So I would have found some appropriate bait laced with friponil and let them eat the food and take it into their nest and over the course of 24 hours would probably kill them all with no risk and less cost.

Brocock/BRK  JSB Hades 15g vs. Jumbo 18g

I'm shooting a BRK Pathfinder .22mm (loving it so far). This question pertains to hunting Iguana more than target practice/plinking.
I would like to establish which pellet is best suited for these extremely tough skinned creatures. I’ve had great results with the Jumbo 18.13g pellets But got started thinking that the lighter Hades with the hollow point type quality may do more damage or better stated, cleaner kill than possible straight through shot from the Jumbo. Taking an average of say … 25 yards & no wind to speak of , I tested both however, my results were inconclusive. Im probbly testing on the wrong targets. Here is what I did: @ 25 yards I set up a metal basin. Pretty sturdy, a little thicker than a coffee can. Five shots on the right with the Jumbo 18.13g & five shots on the left with Hades 15.89g. I knew all of the pellets would go through & make an entry hole, it was the result of the exit hole that I thought would help me see the benefit of either. As I guessed the entry holes were impressive. The exit hole were non-existant. I can say the entry holes from the Jumbo, inspecting from behind seemed just a hair more aggressive but the exits were nothing more than divits that were almost identical. Still the Jumbo seemed to be a hair heavier. Next the only thing I could think of was to shoot some coconuts that were laying around the yard, same results. Entry but no extit ( bad choice of target). Lastly, the only fruit I could get ahold of quickly was a large apple. I thought I could at least get a good view of the exit. As you may have guessed both pellets just passed through. I’m not suggesting that the 18g doesn’t make a more impressive thump on entry. It certainly hits with more authority than the 15g. I’m trying to find which makes more damage. I plan on continuing this experiment. In between time I’d like to hear from anyone that can tell me definitively can the Atomic like head of the lighter Hades do more damage than the Jumbo heavier pellet.
Any feedback is appreciated.
For big lizards don't overlook the hades that is the sister to the 15 dome. The 18 will do it really well if you have the steam to send them close to 900. Then there's the heavy hades/monster redesigns. The hades format is a nice middle ground of energy deposition, tissue damage and energy retention imo. If it's just energy dump I like polymags or hybrid slugs. The little 17grain nsa slugs aren't bad if your gun likes them.

If you can send a dome pellet fast enough and accurately they'll expand. My slug gun in 22 happens to like monster hades even if it's a bit fast. At 960 they really do things.

I use all those words to get here : pellet speed (within reasonable energy to kill your quarry) and pellet type don't matter if it's not THE most accurate and repeatable pellet your gun can shoot. If you can put a shot exactly where you want it every time, the rest is irrelevant imo. Happy hunting!

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