Motorhead said:

Need to see the BOTTOM of reg/ drop block.
It would seem weird an adjustment wound be blind sitting under barrel shroud, but whats being pointed at is where the inner spool is assembled into block from.
Generally is such design the seat adjuster to change pressure would be at the other end of block ( Bottom )

I never worked with this reg version as it was only made in the last year or so of production.

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Ohhh I think you’re right- i think these are the respective regulator pressure and hammer spring tension adjustment screws

ddkroetz said:

I am ashamed to admit it. But you are right I had it on backwards. I looked at some pictures and videos and realized what was going on.

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Classic, we’ve all been there! At least it works now, it really is a easy to use unit.

Plumb bob.

I’m curious if you’re watching your second reg pressure between shots, to see that it’s refilling to the same point each time. Maybe wait 30 seconds between shots, and see if it evens out some.

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I have several Ithaca Model 37's that are everything you could want in a pump shotgun and can regularly be found for $300-$500 in great condition.

Nice job. Shag carpet, hmmmm … that’s a blast from the past

My spring guns like them. Both in .177 and .22.

Any pellet is match grade if the shooter shoots better than most shooters.......

There are no shortcuts or magic formu!as or charts to let you skip finding out where your gun shots best. I test a fairly wide range of pellets but at the velocity the guns shoots them with the regulator the factory set and the hammer spring a little under the peak for that regulator setting. Then I may change the regulator if a pellet looks decent but the velocity seems high or low. I have not found velocity to be a strong enough influence to change an inaccurate pellet to accurate. But it can make a good pellet better. To me velocity under 800 or much over 900 is a little suspect and possibly worthy of changing. But I have several guns that shoot well at up to 950.

You guys do good work. I thought that was our dinner for Saturday night roaming around

I have shot the 30gr with my vulcan 500 laser accurate 170 bar will get the 30gr going around 930 fps you will need a heavier spring you can use talontune spring

I have done a lot of tests on the Vulcan factory regulator and the Huma The factory regulator is amazing and very consistent build like a tank, but If you go above 170 bar It will become slower you may need to change the washer stacking it will fix this problem and make it recover faster Right now my v500 shooting JSB 18.13gr and the v700 shooting the 33gr precision slug amazing rifles and they will draw a smile on your face whenever you use them

Thanks for that information. Do you know what the pressure was at on the gauge when the velocity was maybe 20 fps lower than before? That would be very helpful to see where your regulator is set.

But regardless, the first thing to try is increasing the hammer spring and see what happens to velocity. There is a screw on the back of the air tube that lets you adjust how hard the hammer hits the valve. Try turning it clockwise 1 half turn and record the velocity. If it goes up try another half turn. Keep increasing until it stops going up. You probably don't want to stop at the highest velocity you get. Usually you turn the banner screw enough to reduce velocity from the peak by 3 to 5 percent. But it won't break the gun to stay at the peak.

If the velocity from adjusting the hammer spring is not high enough you can raise the regulator setpoint. But that is harder to do. But I can tell you how.

I use a stabila gimbal laser level and match my reticle up, if the gun has a bubble I level the gun first and then do the same. Carpentry things.

johnwoitalla said:

Who are "they?"

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Arken

MongooseV8 said:

They run a 20-30% off "sale" year round. Kinda lame tactic but thats how they do it.

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Who are "they?"

Theyre dragging butt on my stuff. Pre-ordered a month ago to ger"we can't tell you when that model is going to be in" so I upgraded and it still hasn't shipped. The product is good, they just seem under staffed. I know they were when the zulus came out.

i concur the trigger spring is not needed the sear will reset the trigger and if you install the screw and lower the sear screw the trigger is first rate and that will give anyone looking for a nice little spring pistol something to buy
now my pistols had been done already and the spring removal was icing on the cake
great idea
now the trigger hole is 5.5mm and the pin is 5mm and the case and cover hole are more then 5mm so that could be a place for a larger pin and it could be shimmed but 0.5mm was too much, i think .1mm each side .2mm total could help
i put some tape in the frame hole and that helped
great idea thank you
mike

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igolfat8 said:

We tried JTS, AEA and JSB 25 grain pellets. It STACKED the JSB’s (deep). It did not like the JSB (Shallow) pellets. Since the JSB Shallows and the AEA and JTS also have shallow bases I wonder if the poor accuracy of those 3 had something to do with the seating depth? I’m not sure if the seating depth is adjustable on the Vet???

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Good question Tim! I will try and contact Tony @ Talon amd see.....

I have a Karma SLS Standard in 22 cal. My pellets are JSB 15.9 shooting in the high 990 range. Accuracy seems to be very good. I think the 1 high shot is when it fell off the regulator, or maybe just me That's at 42yds.

I'd send it back. Something is messed up. That shot count is low compared to my stock two year old 2240 and Diana Chaser. Both of those get 40+ decent shots. I'm also getting 500 fps with 11.9 RWS Hobby. Put the $ in a Diana Chaser if you really need a cheap Co2 gun. The 2240 in stock form is a plinker and not much more. The Chaser in carbine form really amps up the game in velocity and accuracy.