Jezter6 said:

IMHO you were doing good right until the last line. Yeah, we need to encourage ways for new shooters to get into a match and still knock down targets. No, what we dont need is people with 20+ years of FT going out there and absolutely dominating a newbie friendly class so that it's unsurprisingly 'uncompetitive' for the noobs to join. Adding in cash prizes just to give the old guys more incentive to go beat up on new people will SURELY bring more fodder for us to stomp on.

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Sounds like we might need to add some rules to the low price point equipment class. Maybe no competitors with over 2 or maybe 3 years of experience allowed?
What else would make it work to make it easier to enter the game and keep them coming back?

Bigbaby said:

It’s a .25 with a 600mm barrel shooting JSB 25.39gr. My velocity dropped when I increased pressure above 100bar with same hammer setting. I may try again with higher pressure if my accuracy is off, right now I’m just happy to get my velocity back to where it was before I started messing with it.

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Correct, when you increase pressure, you increase hammer SLOWLY. go up 10 bar, click up 1 or 2, shoot 3 shots... see where velocity goes, then click up 1-2 more, see where its at. until it stops rising, or it drops. wherever the velocity stops rising or drops, is your absolute peak velocity for that regulator pressure. Then roll back a click or 2. that'll be your sweet spot.

The air presses against the valve, Every 10Bar higher, thats 150lbs more force pushing on the valve stem. so your hammer has to strike harder to get a full open. More air pressure also pushing on the pellet.

So, when you raise your pressure 10-20bar and leave the same hammer set.. you're going to lose a lot of speed. You have to work up the wheel. but do it in controlled small increments. 1 hammer wheel position can be the difference between a good spread and a perfect spread.

RoosterCogburn said:

what projectile are you trying to shoot? which barrel length, what are you trying to do.

100 on a .25 can obtain 900, but pretty low. Might have better luck at 120-130

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It’s a .25 with a 600mm barrel shooting JSB 25.39gr. My velocity dropped when I increased pressure above 100bar with same hammer setting. I may try again with higher pressure if my accuracy is off, right now I’m just happy to get my velocity back to where it was before I started messing with it.

RobBonnell89 said:

They must of fixed it. It’s working now. Now I gotta decide if $50 worth of parts is worth $40 shipping haha. I better find more stuff to buy

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That's why I always go to order from them and I can't make it past the checkout. The shipping is just to much.

orion said:

Yes you are right, I was confused thinking about holdover, the yardage in the turrets are not going to change with the magnification, the holdovers do in a SFP

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This is something interesting that I was thinking for a while, you guys can confirm me that on SFP scope holdover change on the magnification but if you mark your turret and adjust reticle with them it shouldn't change with the different magnification ? Thank you !

OldVet said:

Thanks .

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De nada, senor
Alles gut, ja?

This listing has been renewed

what projectile are you trying to shoot? which barrel length, what are you trying to do.

100 on a .25 can obtain 900, but pretty low. Might have better luck at 120-130

bump that reg up to 125-130, try starting at the middle of the wheels adjustment range. MAX is not exactly meant for lower pressures.

JackHughs said:

I agree. The small volume cf tanks are not inherently less safe or less reliable than the larger volume tanks. However, they can be less useful depending on your intended use. I have a 3 liter Tuxing which is great for pistol or low power rifle target shooting but is all but useless for the higher power rifles.

JackHughs

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But they are very good as a tether rig.
I have 2 3L with adjustable fill valves. One set at 2200psi for unregulated and the other set for 200bar for regulated guns.

I have 3 9L and 2 6.8L for my overnight work. I don't run the compressor after 8pm or before 9am so I dont annoy the neighbors.

Bigbaby said:

The DRS Tactical only has one wheel with 100 clicks for hammer adjustment. I installed a meter on the plenum yesterday only got good fps with the regulator bottomed out (evidently had residual air) and max hammer spring. I took a look at the plenum pressure today and it read “0”. I adjusted to plenum to 100 bar and backed the hammer spring down 40 clicks, then adjusted the hammer spring up until I got 900fps on the chrony. I went up on the pressure and fps went down, so I backed pressure back down to 100 bar and readjusted the hammer spring to give me 900-913 fps. 900fps is what the DRS was shooting when it arrived and has been very accurate so I think I’m good again. I appreciate the advice.

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I'm retarded. for some reason i was thinking dynamic.

This listing has been renewed

Ok so I'm still waiting for my L-tech it'll be a year since I ordered it in Sept. Or Oct. Hell I can't remember when I ordered at this point but I'm starting to think I just got robbed for over 600.00

bchannell said:

* hammer strike consistency

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That.

.

Byahkin said:

Block for forward rifle support; no rear bag

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Assuming the Gamo Varmint springer is relatively powerful, no human can expect consistent accuracy results resting the fore-end on a block; even if all screws and connections are rock-solid.

.

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

manabeknives said:

OH!!..I'm going to use it 2x

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Gotta stop there . 100 % is all you get.

Yep, me too. My part of a deal doesn't end until I know a buyer got what I sent or vice versa.

It is the SPA reg. I finally read that 2.5 turns is 130 bar.

RoosterCogburn said:

holds air. fills gun. If you have a 250bar 300+ bottle gun and you want to shoot a bunch and fill from reg pressure to fill. No.


I can fill my vixen from 115bar to 250 bar 2 times. Before I start getting short filled. That’s a 250cc bottle. If I wanted to fill to 3000psi ~210b from 115. That’s now 8 fills. It’s just how you play it.

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I agree. The small volume cf tanks are not inherently less safe or less reliable than the larger volume tanks. However, they can be less useful depending on your intended use. I have a 3 liter Tuxing which is great for pistol or low power rifle target shooting but is all but useless for the higher power rifles.

JackHughs

Got the Ronin in & tried a few rounds. It is indeed stupid quiet with it. all you hear is the hammer spring. I will try adjusting the hammer spring next..
Have new prism scope on the way.

I am absolutely positive that this gun has not been touched in 57 years. I have a heat gun and will use it on the front pins and trigger screws. May leave it set all night with WD40 or Liquid Wrench first. The 150 does not have a bear trap mechanism so no hole to insert a pin in when removing the take down bolt. I have a heavy duty spring press anyway so either way that is what I would use. Us Springer folks don’t worry about spring pressure. Is a silicone grease preferred in the piston and in the barrel? I want to use the best lubs so this is a one and done. Also I see no need to remove the ring. Correct? Thank you everyone for all your help. The seals are on the way. ARC is the place.

If I were making the choice it would be for a GX CS-4 (with external power supply)
The internal supply is just not worth another $66 for me