beerthief said:

Maybe this is an opportunity knocking at your door , new better barrel , rebuild the other parts ?

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Hahaha yeah, that’s why I’m on the fence basically…

Peashooter said:

It is a swim / row distance far beyond my capabilities, and that’s the only way i will ever visit the US again.

No one told me when to run, i missed the starting airgun

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Yes might be a tad out of reach for you .

Greetings, I am new to the forum but enjoy reading the discussions and gleaning knowledge from those that posts. I have a JK Han Noblesse Bullpup and am looking for the elusive 10 shot magazine for the rifle. I have scoured the internet and emailed dealers in Europe and South Africa that sell...

Many lightweight slugs will shoot just fine out of the standard STX liner. But if you want to shoot mid-weight slugs you'll probably want a STX Heavy liner. And if you want to shoot heavy-weight slugs fast (upwards of 1000 FPS) you want the slug power kit (probe, weight, spring).

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

It is a swim / row distance far beyond my capabilities, and that’s the only way i will ever visit the US again.

No one told me when to run, i missed the starting airgun

Waiting on a full report with pics!

greenbeans said:

Traded for it here, my trading partner got it here as well some time ago. Just to be clear, the member I traded with is great and completely honest. He offered to trade back immediately after seeing a pic of the reg and reinforced the offer after seeing the barrel. He didn’t know how the gun was looking inside and only had it for a short time, so no complaints there. Just put a ton of work into it by now and am on the fence of re-barreling or not. Would feel like quitting to stop now. On the other hand… don’t throw good money and time after bad?!

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Maybe this is an opportunity knocking at your door , new better barrel , rebuild the other parts ?

The markings on the tins are:

PA = Pyramyd Air
WM = Walmart
Am = Amazon

WDW = washed, dried, waxed

The “washing” here refers not only to cleaning with a degreaser solution (e.g. Awesome Orange or Purple Power), but also tumbling them vigorously in a wire strainer to break off the flashing at the skirts and mold parting line. With some Crosman tins, before and after tests shrunk average group size by half but unfortunately the results still fell short of tins purchased back in 2012 - 2013.

RM.510bigbore said:

As long as you pour a lead lap to the barrel you will be fine.. The other option i use on my Airforce plarforms is Air lapping...Stupid simple..Put the valve lapping compound on your pellets or slugs and then shoot through your perfectly clean barrel..I buy the lapping compound on ebay.. Sometimes a barrel sucks and you waste your time roll of the dice... I drilled 1000,s of .177 and .22 cal barrels that were all kind of off center..I often wondered if those barrels ever shot..Production grade is hit or miss.. It sucks getting a barrel machined for Airguns expensive..Out the labor and time.. Ive lapped quite a few barrels know and getting the feel for it. I also have the Tyslong digital borescope..Im not to good at uploading vidoes.. Im disabled and have time. I will hand lead lap your barrel for free .. I have casting pots set up for casting in the garage , and i have a good tipton rod i can use for 30 cal... Here to help

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Really appreciate your offer and insight!!! I may trade the gun back (my trading partner is very sorry, he didn’t know and got the rifle used a bit ago as well so offered to trade back immediately). If I decide to trade back I’ll let him know that you made this generous offer!!

Does plenum volume count towards overall air capacity?

ctshooter said:

I wanted to hop on this thread and say that I have owned several AAA Evols and none have looked like yours. That is NOT a new gun. That reg has been bastardized and beat on HARD - the purple anno should be PERFECT with no marks or dings - someone f'ed that gun HARD and left it strung out to dry. I would demand a refund for that POS used gun you got.

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Traded for it here, my trading partner got it here as well some time ago. Just to be clear, the member I traded with is great and completely honest. He offered to trade back immediately after seeing a pic of the reg and reinforced the offer after seeing the barrel. He didn’t know how the gun was looking inside and only had it for a short time, so no complaints there. Just put a ton of work into it by now and am on the fence of re-barreling or not. Would feel like quitting to stop now. On the other hand… don’t throw good money and time after bad?!

silvershooter589 said:

I have a Challenger Pro 30 and I usually prefer shooting my Gauntlet 30. Even though the AEA has a wider range of adjustment.

The long barrel 30 is going to be pretty crazy shooting anything other than very heavy slugs unless you turn that thing down a lot.

The Guantlet 30 has perfect power for shooting 65 grain slugs.

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I want a heavy slug gun

Lexingjim said:

View attachment 554116

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i see you modified the the fore stock for a pic rail addition. tell us just how you did it ?? please


SPA s great copy of a wildcat. dairyboys experience nonwithstanding

Where are these made?

Bramezy said:

Hello All,
Im wondering into unchartered territory on a budget.
Looking for a "cheap" jacket to try out a few new classes.
Any input on these Creedmoor jackets? Im a big guy and want something that will actually fit.
Measuring at 49" snug so 50" gave a tad bit of room, thats with a tshirt.
Thanks

PS - Search only gave 2 old threads and none really addressed this specific jacket. Im not buying anything beyond this at this time. Seem some nice ones out there but if I stick with shooting a class that allows a jacket I may upgrade down the road.

View attachment 554162

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any body your size at the shoots ? the only store i know of is in TN

No problem with a little "wiggle" in there. It's not enough to be concerned with.

Hatsan on the other hand needs some shims. They will flop around about 2-3 clicks in windage. The play is between the upper and lower leaf and can be tightened up with a couple layers of painters tape. The fit of the locator pin to the bore needs a single drop of epoxy. After that the sight is as solid as the HW.

The play in the HW is less than one "click" on the windage screw. At 50 yards that's not very much. Most of the play is in the rear aperture and that centers itself pretty closely.

I'm not crazy about HW sights because of the very limited view in the front hood. You can't "hold over" much past 40 yards or you run out of front post. You need to elevate the rear sight for long shots and that is a huge pain. I can shoot to 100 yards with every other iron sight setup I have (Diana, Hatsan, Cometa) but the HW is only good to 45 yards without holding below that ridiculously small front tube.

Peep sights suck for hunting and plinking because you have to adjust the sight to elevate. You can't even see a 50 yard target through the peep if you are zeroed for 25. They make great target sights but they just don't work for targets at multiple distances unless your screwing the sight up and down all the time.

The rear sight is OK on an HW even with a little play. It's the front sight and a very limited elevation capability that bothers me. I can still hit shotgun shells at 60 yards with it but I'm holding the rear blade way below the front post down on the front sight dovetail lug. With a little larger "korntunnel" and a taller front post the sights could work a lot farther out without fiddling with the elevation screw.

I filed a little notch on the front sight "ring" and it makes centering the post much easier. Still when you are that far down the front sight it's just guesswork. The sights were designed to be adjusted for range and are just not as adaptable to hold over as the sights found on most other pellet rifles.

MushroomPsyche said:

Sorry but I have not tried the lead free pellets. For anything under 20 yards though, there's a good chance they will be accurate enough at those distances.

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The barn is 25 yards long, 12 yards wide, and the upstairs is about 12 yards tall. Running a pythagorean theorem twice, I get about 30 yards if I am shooting at pigeons or starlings roosted upstairs from one end of the barn to the other. Most shots will be much less though.

Downstairs might actually be more interesting as I may need to hit a house sparrow in the head in a little nook or cranny, next to a rafter/beam, so good accuracy will be required, but that will definitely be inside 20 yards.

I will be doing my darndest to make sure I don't end up with rats in the barn. All chicken feed will be stored in rat proof containers, and the coop itself will be rat proof.

Really no expert here , but looking at the marks in the barrel , TO ME , look like short strokes with maybe a SS brush . like the brush was put in a hammer drill and pulled through the barrel . i am just looking at the scratches . hope i am wrong .

greenbeans said:

I may as well try. I have 400 and 600 grit here but I guess you’re right, that’s not good enough for something this deep. My only concern is that I’ll end up with a .23 bore at the muzzle if really get the rings out… like a reverse choke

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As long as you pour a lead lap to the barrel you will be fine.. The other option i use on my Airforce plarforms is Air lapping...Stupid simple..Put the valve lapping compound on your pellets or slugs and then shoot through your perfectly clean barrel..I buy the lapping compound on ebay.. Sometimes a barrel sucks and you waste your time roll of the dice... I drilled 1000,s of .177 and .22 cal barrels that were all kind of off center..I often wondered if those barrels ever shot..Production grade is hit or miss.. It sucks getting a barrel machined for Airguns expensive..Out the labor and time.. Ive lapped quite a few barrels know and getting the feel for it. I also have the Tyslong digital borescope..Im not to good at uploading vidoes.. Im disabled and have time. I will hand lead lap your barrel for free .. I have casting pots set up for casting in the garage , and i have a good tipton rod i can use for 30 cal... Here to help

cahil_2 said:

How did you know what the reg pressure was on the classic?

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I was told they are set the same, and both of mine shot 880 FPS. Much like the Tactical version you can attach a manometer to the plenum (after removing the stock) of the Classic version.