Vana2 said:

Most airgun reviews are shallow glossies where the youtube content creator reads off the manufacturer's propaganda, reminds you to "like and subscribe" then shoots a couple of poopty groups, claiming how fantastic the gun is while making excuses for the results.

It should be easy to do better - unless you are just trying to get rich quick off of youtube. In that case, you have a lot of competition.

A proper review takes a lot of time to break in the gun and get to know it's idiosyncrasies.

My biggest pet peeve is the reviewers who "test" a gun in windy conditions and expect you to believe that the hits all over the target are not the guns/pellets/shooter's fault.

I can read the manufacturer's sales literature myself. A review should cover things like ergonomics, operation and performance. Some baselines (velocities for different weight pellets) are useful.

The questions I have when reviewing targets that were shot are...
- Was the barrel cleaned?
- Is the gun broken in?
- Distance to target?
- Was the target realistic or "cherry-picked" from a bunch of poor ones?
- Pellet brand/weight tested that shot well.
- Pellet brand/weight tested that shot poorly.
- Were the pellets sorted?
- Was the group shot from a magazine or single loaded?
- Was a proper rest used?

Missing this kinda information casts a lot of shade on the results. And I often wonder at the skill and qualifications of the shooter.

If you really want to write good quality reviews, please keep in mind that are competing with AI created bullcrap videos that youtube is is being flooded with.

Probably the most difficult thing about writing reviews is dealing with suspicious old guys like me!

Good luck!

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I am definitely going to incorporate a lot of this. I am like you. I am making this because a lot of the stuff you see on these reviews, I cant tell if this was really shot at 50 or hundred yards. Also, I don't know if you cherry picked rounds. I want it to be as real world as possible. Like (when possible) you should be able to see me open the tin for the first time, load a mag, and go. Because almost no real world situation are most people hand loading every shot. I was thinking of adding a few other shot angles, like maybe a drone shot to show distance, and maybe set up a go pro near the target so you don't have to see my shakey cocking lol. But thanks so much for the input.

This listing has been renewed

Dave~H said:

I feel like I need an impact cuz it’s the ruger 10/22 of airguns.. I feel like everyone in this game needs an impact.

Yet the red panda looks so sweet and their winning competitions lately.

Next would be the evo and the alpha wolf. I wish I could spend $12000 and get them all!!

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I think the Crown would be more of the 10/22 of airguns. Nothing against the impact, just a lot of things to fiddle with on it. My old 10/22 was just load it and shoot it.

I hope we answered the question of the OP but most of the posts seem to be on the "glasses on versus glasses off" point. Since that seems to be the main discussion at this point I will add my thought. I mostly shoot from the bench and I watch my wind flags (mainly the one at about 20 yards) with my non dominant eye. I shoot both eyes open. If I did not have my glasses on I would not be able to see the flag clearly enough to see what it is doing. But for safety reasons alone I would not remove my glasses. It's one of the many things we all get to make our own decision about but my position is people without poly carbonate prescription lens should wear safety glasses when shooting.

Maker's Marksman said:

That depends on swept volume. and caliber. But those 60 ccm surely won't last further than 12 inches, at that monster caliber.

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This may help.
Pellet Rifle Swept Volume formula:
Rifle bore radius squared x Pi (3.14159) x piston stroke = cubed mm. Convert to cubed centimeter by moving decimal point 3 positions left.
Example:
HW95L .22 caliber 26 mm Bore radius = 13 squared (1/2 diameter) = 169 mm x Pi (3.14159) = 530.929 x HW95L Stroke 85 = 45,128.9 mm cubed. Convert to CC (cubic centimeter) = 45.128 or 45.13 CC for Swept Volume.

FYI & may be in error. I have these numbers for a HW95 BUT I have not measured them.
TP size = 3 mm, length = 15 mm, TP volume = .106 cc. HW95 piston bore = 26 mm with stroke of 85 mm. Piston weight = 254 grams.

Dave~H said:

I have this urge to compete yet there’s no competitions near where I live .. there is some NRL in Wisconsin which ima try to drive to a few.. contemplating pyramid air cup and RMAC but I’d be a 1st timer. I have the Pantherra 30 700 for NRL so looking for a benchrest pellet shooter to go with it.

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I had the urge to compete, and still do, but it did not take long to discover that I needed to compete with myself and become satisfied with the results before heading to a competition and humiating myself. I am still a long way from being consitant enough to compete with others. But thats just me.

Any idea what gun he used?

Even the most skilled Indian armed with the best bow won't bring home much meat if he's shooting bad arrows. However the astute Indian, realizing that his equipment handicap is less than ideal arrow material, will work within the limits of his equipment to improve success.

And in some cases, perhaps discover that even bows and arrows of materials perceived as less than ideal can be capable of bringing home the bacon if he is careful enough to choose the RIGHT less than ideal bow and arrow materials.

Examples- the best primitive bow material grows notoriously crooked, knotted, and otherwise less than ideal for building a bow. However when carefully chosen, and skillfully crafted, an Osage (Bois D'Arc) bow outshoots and outlasts any other primitive bow. Some astute Indians realized that fact; no doubt from huge investments it time, labor, blood, sweat and tears (ask how I know). At some point white settlers realized the impervious nature of Osage, yet relegated it to such ignoble purposes as fence-posts and wind-breaks.



Another example- Well crafted cane arrow shafts, fletched with buzzard ass-feathers, can shoot as well as the the best wooden arrows fletched with eagle feathers.

One more example- Indians largely abandoned stone arrowheads in favor of iron arrowheads... made from the white man's discarded whiskey barrel bands. Maybe not exactly "water from wine", but definitely an excellent example of "one man's trash is another man's treasure".

I was gifted this arrow, identical to those in the mini-series Lonesome Dove, by the bowyer that made and provided the Indian bows and arrows used in L.D. The director was so impressed with the arrows that he decided to add a scene featuring a good close-up of one. That added scene is the arrow impaling Gus's saddle in the creek-bed. BTW, my bowyer buddy used a genuine, well-rusted whiskey barrel band to make the arrowhead(s).

Your's Truly,
Makes Meat With Crummy Bows (AKA- Still crazy after all these years)






Correction- Still crazy after all these decades.





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Florida_Man said:

All depends what the application is. But I’m sure I could find something good for 1k cheaper and spend the rest on pellets.

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Agree. When I was in the same situation with the same budget, that is exactly what I did.

Let me understand, you'll be using a double male foster to connect compressor hose to tank hose for filling the tank? It appears in the picture (Amazon ad) that there's a male foster on the tank ( with a rubber cap) and THAT'S what's used for filling tank from your compressors's hose. You shouldn't even need a double male, or am I misunderstanding? Or, is your tank different from the one shown in ad?

Can anyone recommend which target would be best for dipping my toes into 10m?

The big advantage of FFP is the value of the markings on the reticle do not change with magnification change. The big disadvantage, which is directly tied to the advantage, is the size of the reticle changes with changes in magnification. If the reticle is fine (like my Arken 6-24) it becomes almost invisible at the lowest power of the scope (6X in my example).

The big advantages of SFP are mechanical simplicity and the size of the reticle does not change with power changes. It's disadvantage is the size of the markings on the reticle are a function of the magnification and only match the mil or moa marks at one magnification. The reticle of the SFP does not move when you change power so it is a bit simpler.

I mainly shoot targets (paper) but like to be able to pest with the same gun and scope. When pesting I use 6X mostly because I want to be able to find the target quickly. If I cannot see the reticle well at 6X it requires me to use higher magnification making finding targets take more time. So the scope becomes less useful to me.

It is also possible to have a thicker reticle FFP where the reticle remains visible. My Primary Air 4-14 is that way. But that sort of reticle is not great for shooting paper targets (but I did shoot a 198 on the 30 yard challenge with the PA 4-14 but I could not see the aim point, I had to just center the reticle on the target).

Because of my desire to use both extremes of the magnification range of the scope I prefer SFP scopes. I sight most of my guns in at 30 yards so I only have to hold over at under 20 yards and over 35 yards. When I hold over I usually estimate the hold over based upon the size of the target. The head of a squirrel is about 2 inches in diameter, for instance. So if I need 1 inch of hold over that is about half the diameter of the squirrel head. Holding on the top edge should hit right in the middle of the head. I also usually put stickers on the inside of the occular lens cover with tick marks of holdover. For SFP scopes I do it at 6X and another higher power. So I can still use the reticle marks at a couple pre determined magnifications.

They both work, clearly, it is just how you see the trade offs.

I have a Polygon Twist barrel in my RAW. It was made before the slug thing became an interest. I have tried to shoot the same weight slug as the AEA Center Punch @33.9 that prints good paper, but the slug won't group very well?? Do you have an auxiliary plenum mounted? Thanks, Bill

marflow 777 said:

is it want over need

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I can understand paying a stupid price for a gun when you need it; like when coming under attack, or while starving to death surrounded by plenty of meat on the hoof... armed only with pockets full of cash. But there are few real examples of needing an airgun.

However, I assume I'm not the only airgunner to have paid more than a reasonable price for one I wanted. Correction- oneSSS I wanted. Correction- one$$$ I wanted.

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A is set screw, don't mess with B its hole where TP was drilled.

coastal drifter said:

on the wildcat the set screw is under the cheek rest, I dont know if they are the same

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Yeah, its kinda the same block but only a few details are different

on the wildcat the set screw is under the cheek rest, I dont know if they are the same

katonahjohn said:

Two magazines for my Marauder. Original mag stopped working. Spring failure? Operator error? Loading the two new mags with the manual in front of me, just seems complicated for some reason. Maybe my dementia is getting worse? Find out thursday range time when the temps are supposed to be in the upper 70's to see if I dun good!

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Welcome , and some
Lions main Mushrooms are good for dementia also type in Google search bar
"Herbs for dementia"
Seriously these things will help Happy shooting. OV

truth be told some people hate to lose,some people are stupid ,some have money to waste ,some do not know anything....human nature is not about being sensible when caveman instincts prevail.

Joedirt199 said:

He hasn't been around since 2016. Doubt he sorted it out.

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