This listing has been renewed

I'm not the first one to do it, it was another forum member that came up with it and he has made some amazing builds.

Murfdurf82 said:

So far has this been pretty reliable? I got a 15 inch barrel I'm waiting on to finish

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I did the inlet pin on many other builds and are still holding up. Did it with a 1400 and did not hold up but wasn't until a HEAVY pumping and shooting session that it gave out. We are talking 200 pumps like 20 shots with no break. The pump tube was very hot. The 1322 does not create that kind of heat.

Murfdurf82 said:

So far has this been pretty reliable? I got a 15 inch barrel I'm waiting on to finish

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Yes. 12 inch barrel, ported valve, solid metal piston with felt wiper and pump cup (not flat top) .157 transfer and barrel port long bolt probe. Inlet pin.
with 14.3
10 pumps 530fps
11 pumps 550
12 pumps 571

Correct Terry.
So far, the reply from AA is;
"Try fixing it yourself, sorry for the inconvenience".
Lifetime in UK; 3 weeks in Australia.

The least they can do is send me a set of Orings, in the case that I can satisfactorily remove the burr.
Consumer laws are relatively strong here, so normally, the minimum would be New Cylinder and Orings from the manufacturer through Australian supplier.
Nice rifle, Not happy.

Depends what I'm hunting and conditions. All small game and pests i use an airgun. Wing shooting fowl and big game all powder burners. The beauty of airgun hunting is the ability to do it often and in places a firearm isn't feasible or allowed, same reason I hunt archery.

There were some performance problems with the Google sheets web view when viewing results. There is a new link to access that should load significantly quicker. Previously there were 3 separate links, now all those pages are combined in one.

All results, one spreadsheet - Series Ranking, Scores, and Results (new link, Aug 13, 2025)

This listing has been renewed

RoosterCogburn said:

Lothar-Walther 6groove RH 1:17.7 polygonal


That would be awesome.

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I was reading the polygonal rifling was common with daystate for bigger bore, some .177 came with it but more common with conventional rifling in .177....can you tell from the rifling you see in these pics? I can't tell but it does seem pretty shallow so maybe poly

Keep in mind you can always add the additional expansion chamber later on if you want to quiet it down more.

JimD said:

I test in wet magazines based upon writings of Finn Aagard, a former professional hunter in Africa. He believed penetration in wet paper was a reasonably simulation of muscle tissue. I benchmarked those tests to penetration in squirrels by shooting a couple dead squirrels I hung from a tree. I don't use guns and/or projectiles that will not go through 8-10 wet magazines of about 80 pages each. I am more worried about killing the pest than over penetration. How much penetration you get in an animal depends a lot on where you hit it. I killed 18 squirrels with my P35-25 when it was tuned to about 32 fpe. 3 shots failed to exit. Two were lengthwise shots that stopped under the skin in the rear. One was a double shoulder shot that stopped under the skin. The lengthwise shots ran a little but all the squirrels died quickly. 15 of 18 were pass throughs. My P35-22 is tuned to about that power level and has killed all 10 I have shot with it and all were DRT with pass throughs. I mainly worried about penetration of my Prod after having two of the first 4 squirrels run off. Tuning it up to about 18 fpe has dropped the last 14 I've used it on but they rarely exit. My P35-177 is at a similar power and has dropped over 20 but I lost one I shot in the rear end. It penetrates more but still often does not exit.

I have a collection of pellets I've taken from dead squirrels. All are distorted some but the copper plated FTTs from the Prod still look pretty close to the way they did before I shot them. Higher powered guns will distort pellets more, especially when they hit bone. I do not use expanding projectiles. I have shot squirrels with Crosman HPs from the Prod but they don't expand at Prod velocity. An expanding projectile will reduce penetration which could be useful if you are worried about over penetration but even non expanding 177 pellets take squirrels quickly with any sort of reasonable placement so I conclude expansion is not necessary.

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With my background, overpenetration WAS ALWAYS a concern as you are responsible for every bullet you fire. That said, I've always wanted every ounce of every foot-pound of energy expended in the target (with the caveat of enough penetration to reach vitals).

I get that on bigger game (whitetail deer+), having complete penetration and an exit wound makes bleed out faster, and makes the game (usually) drop faster. But let's face it, my #1 targets are chipmunks that are at best, still shy of 2" across, broadside.

While I do prefer expanding pellets, I know that sub-two inch penetration with my 392 is not likely-no matter how fast I'm shooting the pellets or how well/fast they expand. I'm also shooting in a relatively 'shooting-friendly' suburban area (and want to keep it that way), I'm always sure of my surroundings and backdrop, so pellets that pass through bury themselves safely in the dirt, but why use a pellet/power combination that can penetrate 8+ inches in a 1.75" pest?

The easy answer would be to pump the rifle less for less power and less penetration, but I'm a power junkie.

History (feel free to skip to problem)

O.K. I am pretty sure I will get the same answer but I seem to be having a similar problem. I do have a couple caveats though. I bought a used an airacuda max to see if I liked the sport enough and I did. I am a physicist so I completely nerded out on tuning but hammer spring an pellet weight only since it has an internal reg. I had established that this would be a sport for me and so more research on guns to see what I wanted as I am leaning towards bench rest as I am also a disabled vet in a wheelchair so PRS is probably not going to be possible.

After searching I narrowed it down to a Skout Epoch, Daystate Wolf of some kind or an FX impact, King or possibly a Crown for the right price with the right barrels. I found a used Impact M2 sniper config with the 480 bottle and a .22 cal 700mm barrel. I plan on moving up to the power block and 720 plenum but I was shooting it daily on a 70 yard range I set up in the yard with retrievable targets on a cordless drill driven paracord rig.


I shot it for a few days shooting 14.3 grain exacts at 963 fps +-5 with hammer spring on max and a reg reading of about 105 and then moved to the 18.13 grain JSB's because I had better accuracy with them in my Airacuda Max and was getting great accuracy (for me anyway). with the external knob thing tightened to two about 2.25 lines except for the occasional flyer I was dropping 9/10 under an American quarter at the end of the range and had quite a few sub MOA at five shot groups that fit under a dime at 70 yards and 100 shot strings on a fill with +- 4 FPS.


Problem
But I knew I wanted to reach out farther so I decided to up the reg a bit. I turned it a quarter turn and it immediately went to 150 bar and I thought well, that is higher than I wanted to go as a first step but lets try it.

It shot at 750 fps now? And that was with the wheel at Max so I was puzzled. I though maybe I have a light hammer and it cant open the valve enough? So I went from 2 lines of the nob on the return spring (I think that is what it is called) to four and still no luck. so I pulled the bottle, degassed the plenum even though it made me a bit nervous as I was aware that this could cause problems with gaskets suddenly in a relaxed position after being under pressure for years.

And then no matter what I did the plenum went to the bottle pressure after that.
So is it reg rebuild time or should I just try to replace the set screw O ring first before bringing the reg all the way out for a full rebuild?

What do I need to do to take the set screw out after degassing? I saw the rebuild video for the M2 by AoA and they were taking the trigger apart and pulling the reg piston and stack out using compressed air that I don't have ready easy access to so if there is something I can try short of that I would like too.

And if I need too is there a way to get the stack and piston out wo using low compressed air? I mean I guess could use the can of computer dusting air for it unless I am told that that would be a bad idea.

It is an old gun, should i just get a new reg for it because this is likely to happen in the future and being efficient (read lazy) I like to make my future problems easyer to fix.

What say you Airgun Nation?

Most airgun reviews are shallow glossies where the youtube content creator reads off the manufacturer's propaganda, reminds you to "like and subscribe" then shoots a couple of poopty groups, claiming how fantastic the gun is while making excuses for the results.

It should be easy to do better - unless you are just trying to get rich quick off of youtube. In that case, you have a lot of competition.

A proper review takes a lot of time to break in the gun and get to know it's idiosyncrasies.

My biggest pet peeve is the reviewers who "test" a gun in windy conditions and expect you to believe that the hits all over the target are not the guns/pellets/shooter's fault.

I can read the manufacturer's sales literature myself. A review should cover things like ergonomics, operation and performance. Some baselines (velocities for different weight pellets) are useful.

The questions I have when reviewing targets that were shot are...
- Was the barrel cleaned?
- Is the gun broken in?
- Distance to target?
- Was the target realistic or "cherry-picked" from a bunch of poor ones?
- Pellet brand/weight tested that shot well.
- Pellet brand/weight tested that shot poorly.
- Were the pellets sorted?
- Was the group shot from a magazine or single loaded?
- Was a proper rest used?

Missing this kinda information casts a lot of shade on the results. And I often wonder at the skill and qualifications of the shooter.

If you really want to write good quality reviews, please keep in mind that are competing with AI created bullcrap videos that youtube is is being flooded with.

Probably the most difficult thing about writing reviews is dealing with suspicious old guys like me!

Good luck!

I use Joe B. valves. He has/will sell me rebuild parts for my valves.
Call and ask him.
I also have a Saber Tactical valve and tank bag. Good stuff also.

RoosterCogburn said:

Lothar-Walther 6groove RH 1:17.7 polygonal


That would be awesome.

Click to expand...

I had Martin build me a RAW HM1000x in .177 just for that purpose. I shot it in a couple of matches and did fairly well. It shoots 13.4 gr Zan slugs at 1010 fps.

You have the correct one..

I think I got the last one I bought from Pyramyd Air. I still use it.
I bought a cheap one once on ebay and it let go at 4k.. I was able to shut the compressor down but the hose on the tank was a different story. That hose was flailing around trying to kill me.