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FX  Fx dream line valve seat won’t seal

Still not sealed the valve seat it was stuck solid when I removed the old one the new one is easy to fit in and take out should it be harder to take out if fitted properly should I need to give the seat a light tap in with a punch for it to seal properly or should picking down on it with the valve stem be enough for it to fit snug

Re-read: Help Needed Filling an LG400

Thats just two females scissoring. Im looking for this adapter, but with a male foster fitting.
If your compressor doesn’t have a male foster connection then use this adapter as well.

Recs for someone to restore old Daisy 880 Ted Williams rifle?

Nice rifle!

Another vote for Baker Airguns.

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Other  Break Barrel VS. Underlever

I think the average better accuracy of underlevers comes from the TX200 and HW97 having more weight and modest power output. As long as there is no lockup issues with a breakbarrel, it should be just as accurate, but less weight means more recoil. I only had one RWS48, but even after a tune, it was never as accurate as the 97 or 200. I attribute that to the jumpiness of the gun at near 20 ft lbs tune. Similar deal with the Sig ASP20, it was fine shooting off a rest, but hold sensitivity made elevated shots difficult.

Diana  Please suggest a scope for Diana Bandit

How do you sight in your scope ? what are the steps you took ? I use a very easy sight in process .

Shot a tight group. Used whatever calculation (don't remember) clicks per inch vertically and then horizontally to try to get it to the center per manual

But no matter how much I dialed the adjustment wheels I kept hitting the exact same spot over and over. I went like complete max (should've been a foot away) and still hit the same spot.

Then I dialed it in in the opposite direction to the max just to see if it did anything. Still hit the same spot.

One of the dial metal lid fell of randomly so I wonder if it was damaged or returned or something.

Other  Light Weight Slugs

You’re right to think there could be issues beyond accuracy. Very light slugs in a big bore can sometimes cause the valve to open and close more abruptly, which might lead to extra wear or even damage over time, especially if the rifle is tuned for heavier projectiles. They can also result in higher velocities that push the pellet or slug past the optimal stability range, hurting consistency. It’s not guaranteed to cause damage, but if your setup is tuned for heavier slugs, it’s worth keeping that in mind before running a lot of super light ones through it.
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Other  Gentle Shot Cycle

Agreed, there is something very enjoyable shooting an easy-to-cock rifle with a sedate shot cycle. One of my favorites is a very modest QB78 bottle conversion with a PEEK poppet and super light MDS nylon hammer. In .22 cal shooting 18.1gr at 30fpe, it’s similarly quiet and recoilless as my detuned 6fpe CO2 plinking rifle.

Other  Break Barrel VS. Underlever

Some guns of the same model and set up vary in accuracy. The underlevers, due to their heavier weight, might get the edge on accuracy over the long term, but break barrels can be just as good. I have an HW35E that's just as good as my TX200 if I do my part.

Eating what you hunt and lead poisoning

Hello fellow airhunters,

(I am dutch so please go easy on my spelling and Grammar :))

It might have been discussed before, haven't found it though... I have a question about lead in the quarry that we hunt for food. For example, wood pigeons. Of course, if the goal is to eat it, you'll allways go for a headshot. But what if you hit it in the torso (heart/lung shot), is it stil safe to eat it? Clearly this depends, among other factors, if it was a pass-through and if the projectile staid in the body, how much it shattered. Of course it also depends on how frequently you eat airhunted quarry.

I am not so much looking for opinions, but more kind of knowledge-based answers. Maybe you guys can point me to some useful articles?

Many thanks for sharing your thoughts in advance and kind regards from the Netherlands.
Lead pellets can contaminate meat, especially with body shots where the pellet fragments or remains inside. The safest approach is to aim for headshots, since they minimize contact with edible meat. If you take a body shot, it’s best to cut well around the wound - at least a couple of inches - and avoid eating any nearby organs. You might also consider switching to lead-free pellets if possible. Many hunters follow these steps to keep their game meat safe when eating it regularly. Stay safe out there!

N/A  What did you name your airgun

Dont name my guns, only living things get names inanimate objects are just that. Also dont get sentimental about them they are just a tool that can be replaced with another one if I choose to sell one. But on the other hand I do try to take very good care of my tools.

What are your thoughts on lead exposure?

I got this from a toxicologist:

Much of the information out there about lead poisoning is nothing more than alarmist science. I work in a toxicology lab and am always amazed at the bad rap that lead gets. Let's look at a few things:

- The lead in lead paint is in the form of organic lead and lead salts, NOT METALLIC LEAD. Both organic lead and lead salts are easily absorbed if you eat something contaminated with it or put your fingers in your mouth after handling something contaminated with it.

- Lead poisoning of waterfowl after eating the metallic lead. This is actually true and why I think so many folks are so scared of metallic lead. But there is a big difference between waterfowl and humans. Waterfowl have gizzards. The lead shot that the bird eats gets trapped in the gizard and very slowly erodes, is converted into bioavailable lead salts thanks to digestive acids, and is absorbed into the circulation. This can only occur because the lead shot gets stuck in the gizzard and is continuously ground releasing microscopic lead particles into the digestive tract.

Humans do not have a gizzard and thus a lead pellet and other metallic lead will pass thru quickly and no harm will come of it.

- But I know PB enthusiasts that have suffered lead poisoning from handling lead bullets. No you don't. The biggest problem that PB enthusiasts have with lead is from the propellant. When the propellant burns it gives off vapors of lead salts (again, not metallic lead). These lead salts are dangerous and why you should not routinely shoot a PB indoors, except in a very well ventilated range.

- What about lead dust? What if you inhale lead dust?

Have you ever seen lead dust? I bet you really haven't. It is still lead and no matter how fine a dust particle it is ground in to, it is still many, many, many, many, many times heavier than air and immediately falls to the floor. Now I'm sure that you could devise a way to inhale lead dust, but it would need to be intentionally done.

- What about that black stuff I get on my fingers after handling CPL and CPH pellets. That stuff is not lead (IIRC it is actually graphite) and even if it was lead your body has no easy way of absorbing metallic lead.

- Lead vapors, what about lead vapors? I heard they are extremely toxic. And if we are melting lead to cast our own pellets, or bullets, or fishing sinkers, then we will die.

No you won't, unless you have a really, really hot smelting furnace. Lead melts at 328 Celsius (622 F) but doesn't vaporize until around 1,700 Celsius (3,092 F). Now should you actually reach the vaporization temperature, you will have a problem.

I could go on, but will stop at this point.

Thank you for the thorough overview. Most people haven't learned much about chemistry since high school. So it's difficult for them to identify accurate vs emotionally distorted pseudo-results when they come across a YouTube review. I worked for several years as an analytic chemist in a regional laboratory.

Toxicology is a medical specialty. Except for situations of clear and immediate poisoning, an assessment of toxic chemical effects often requires a broad understanding of toxic compounds and how they are distributed and absorbed and excreted etc.. Your summary was unusual for its thoroughness. It included information which could be found by diligent web search, but which doesn't often show up in an airgun forum in this level of detail.

JP

FX  Impact M6 is around the corner

Here's how I'm confident it's fake. Look at 0:27 into the video and freeze on the block.

It reads:
"Made in USA by FX" - highly doubtful.
"Max pressure 250 bar" - FX is traditionally 250 bar.
"Serial Number" - there is none listed.
FX is doing away with numbers, who needs numbers least of all part numbers? It just confuses things.

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