This listing has been renewed

Hello, play around alittle more with different types and brands of Pellets. I have a QB78 that will stack shots at 10 meters with the right pellets. I have found that JSB Exact Jumbo RS 13.43 gr. works the best in my gun. Have tried others and get quarter size groups Don't give on trying to find what it likes.

LW,
Sorry to hear of these troubles, no question, Chinese Quality Control is hit or miss. Not sure what to say to those who've tried numerous compressor platforms, brands and models, all ending in disappointment. Used to write it off as operator error or sub-standard clones, now think it's more like bad luck. Thread reflects Yong Heng (4 years on mine) and GX-CS are worth the gamble in the budget compressor market. WM

blackdog899 said:

When I bought my GXcs4i in January I think pamphlet said 5 hour run time.
I have run mine 5 straight hours to fill a 9 liter from empty 2 or 3 times and
ran maybe 4 hours for 6.8 liter tanks. I have added external cooling and have
no worries about using this way. The GX is used for my convenience not to
have to babysit.
If I need faster fills I lol use my Tuxing twin but have to watch that as it’s much
faster.

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I burned up so many Yong hengs and then the cs4 with my air needs and gave up and bought a full size dive compressor that does a liter a minute. Best decision in my hpa years.

DarryH said:

I picked up a pre-owned compressor. This is a GX-E-CS2. No manual or instructions.
Looks like foam filter in then handle to catch moisture.
Is there a better moisture prevention system for this compressor??
Also, the fill probe fits loosely in the bottles. Just need new O'rings????
Seems like it might be hard to line up the hole in the probe to the hole in the tank.
Is there a trick to this???

I did get what I need to run AC and DC.
Thanks
Good Shootin!!
DarryH

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I can't speak highly enough of installing a silica gel air dryer before your air filter on the compressor intake. It should be pretty large and easily taken apart, you'll be baking the gel every so often to dry it. I got one off Amazon for an ozone generator. The less moisture going thru the entirety of the compressor, the better.

This listing has been renewed

I'm sure mileage varies, just cuddle it and sing it a lullaby

6gun said:

Just don't fill scbas in 1 sitting with them and they'll live. I ruined a cs4 asking too much from it. They're not meant to do more than a buddy bottle in a single shot 100 ci or a liter or so. Give them a cool down period every 1000 psi and they seem to be happy to give you a long service life. Imho

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When I bought my GXcs4i in January I think pamphlet said 5 hour run time.
I have run mine 5 straight hours to fill a 9 liter from empty 2 or 3 times and
ran maybe 4 hours for 6.8 liter tanks. I have added external cooling and have
no worries about using this way. The GX is used for my convenience not to
have to babysit.
If I need faster fills I lol use my Tuxing twin but have to watch that as it’s much
faster.

blackholegun said:

So I got a Daisy 887 and 888 for my kids to start out 4h 10 meter and silhouettes. They use a 2.5 oz mini cylinder. I know I can get these filled at a paintball shop.

I own my own business and work real odd hours so im trying to figure out what it would take to fill them at home. I can get a C02 bottle from the local gas supplier. I know I have to either invert them or get one with a snorkle tube. I learned on another thread here that the Daisy part number 5861 (which is no longer available). Is the adapter needed but I should be able to cludge something together with parts available. What I don’t know is what attachments I need to get the bulk CO2 connected to my adapted tank and regulate that. Can anyone give me guidance here?

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Hello, it is not hard to do at all. If you have a dry ice plant around, you have it made. Dry Ice is just solid CO2. I have a 125cu tank and can full with 100lb of ice. The plant around here will give for free their over runs. I get the stuff that is the size of rice. Very easy to fill the tank just use a funnel and a dowel to push any that gets stuck. Be sure to have a dip tube on your valve as you want to fill with liquid. I can get around 3years of use out of one fill. There are alot of fill kits out there. Easy to fill paint ball tanks then bulk feed you Gun.

Welcome and congrats on the U3! You ruined yourself for a whole lot of other PCP right from the beginning, the U3 is awesome and better than most!

When i grow up....Im going to be like you!!! Wow Impressive hunt and even more impressive accuracy with slugs....

borne2fly said:

Rattlesnake season is back. Time to ready my favorite snake gun … the KWC M712. Semi-auto to scare ‘em off, full auto if they decide to fight back .
Having recently acquired a real Mauser C96, I’m now able to do a proper comparison and I must say KWC did a pretty good job. Even the real grips will fit (with minor trimming) if they are from an early C96. The step in the barrel was really there on later models, so it’s not just a manufacturing artifact of KWC. With some touch up, and adding the stampings found on an original, this BB gun would look frighteningly real.

View attachment 571295

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Love mine! Charles

JimD said:

840-850 peak on a 25 caliber shooting 25.39 pellets is probably not turned up too high in my opinion. I had mine going 860-870 fps but I have drilled out passages for the air and an after market plenum. But when it got hot outside here velocity was low and I was looking at having to reduce the regulator, again. But I was working on a P35X and dropped that hammer spring in instead. It was plenty to open the valve and I turned it down close to 2 turns and still have 25.4 FX going over 900 fps. I am also using the 530mm barrel of the P35X.

I also have a 22 caliber bullshark and it has a brass valve instead of the plastic in my P35s. The P35X is brass too. The brass valve is smaller in diameter. So it should be easier to open. If so, that would mean you can go higher on the regulator before you run out of hammer spring. I think the plastic valve is 8mm, the P35X is 7mm and the bullshark may only be 6.5 but it also might be 7.5, I can't remember. But it is smaller than my P35s for sure.

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Mine has the plastic valve, didn't think to measure it. Hammer Spring is the weak link it seems. If I turn reg up even another .25mm (using measurement of entire reg length when adjusting) the fps drops. Also turning down .25mm and fps drops. Never found a setting where backing off hammer spring gave a fps increase. But if I shim hammer spring with small washers I can get more out of it.

This listing has been renewed

Of the threads I wish I would have read a few weeks ago…

No problem yet, but I guess I haven’t had it longer than a couple of weeks.

I made some Lego man molds out of joint compound and shot them up.
I clipped one in daylight with the R7. The video is a PCP

Forgive me if I missed this as I didn’t read the whole thread but you must have a chronograph to determine anything with an airgun. Secondly, it may be time to clean the barrel. For your first PCP you certainly got yourself a good one.

Moisture is a big deal, those of us on here that are serious about keeping our guns in good shape have invested in the necessary filtration equipment to insure dry air. There is plenty of information on here, use the search engine. Good luck.

Experienced another period of virtually calm conditions following a rain shower late this afternoon so, I decided to attempt to improve on my existing 30 YD Masters Leaderboard score. Didn't quite achieve my goal but I got one X closer. I submit the attached card for the Leaderboard.

840-850 peak on a 25 caliber shooting 25.39 pellets is probably not turned up too high in my opinion. I had mine going 860-870 fps but I have drilled out passages for the air and an after market plenum. But when it got hot outside here velocity was low and I was looking at having to reduce the regulator, again. But I was working on a P35X and dropped that hammer spring in instead. It was plenty to open the valve and I turned it down close to 2 turns and still have 25.4 FX going over 900 fps. I am also using the 530mm barrel of the P35X.

I also have a 22 caliber bullshark and it has a brass valve instead of the plastic in my P35s. The P35X is brass too. The brass valve is smaller in diameter. So it should be easier to open. If so, that would mean you can go higher on the regulator before you run out of hammer spring. I think the plastic valve is 8mm, the P35X is 7mm and the bullshark may only be 6.5 but it also might be 7.5, I can't remember. But it is smaller than my P35s for sure.

Racer88 said:

I had to look those up. Yowza! Pricey! I'm definitely not in that league... YET!

I had a similar "intro" to "real" air rifles at the range a couple of years ago. A dude there had an FX Impact M3. He let me shoot it, and I was hooked. But then I found they run about $2200. So that put the "kaibosh" on that idea for a while. And just a couple of weeks ago, I settled on a Benjamin Marauder (regulated) with Lothar barrel. I'm quite pleased with it as my "entry level" air rifle. Who knows what I'll get in the future? But future air rifles will still compete with my desire to add to my firearms collection. I like my firearms!

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Well outside my league too. Wild shooting airguns with electronic triggers and built in chronographs.

My best endeavors of the evening. I really like these colored spots and index cards. They are really cheap targets but the 300s doesn’t pack enough power to cut them clean. Maybe backing them will help. Have a good night friends

JoeWillie said:

Also try Eric at Scopewerx, he makes great equipment.

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This is a scope Werks on the mentioned Athlon

When a gun starts shooting differently it's always a good idea to get out the chronograph for more information. When air expands it cools. Even dry air. But for air with moisture in it the moisture may come out as water because of the reduced temperature. Condensing the water out will take energy further decreasing the temperature of the air. So I think it is reasonable to assume your velocity will be lower under these circumstances and the POI may change (usually down but not always). If you think you may have a not insignificant amount of water in your gun you should degass it and check. It won't help anything and could result in damage.

GX has an add-on filter now you could use on your CS4. Or you could just get an additional filter filled with dessicant. Doesn't have to be huge. That's what I do on my YH that fills my 45 minute Scott tank. I just opened my 3 year old P35-22 recently for the first time and it was dry inside. Nice confirmation what I am doing works. I've opened the others recently too and none show water or signs they ever had water in them. You may not need the additional filter all the time. I remove the absorbent filter that came with my YH after every bottle fill and in the winter it will not have any water in it I can squeeze out. But in the summer it sure does. It is my first stage filter to get moisture but also any oil. Then comes the dessicant to get any remaining water.