Motorhead said:

IMO the PEEK needs to be encapsulated as in it being in a pocket or cup type hole being flush to hammers normal end.
PEEK hard as it is still has flex and when set up at a striker tip, when there is no radial support holding the PEEK from flexing outward it can and will shatter over time with poppet stem pounding on it.

HONESTLY you really don't want to make hammer longer and decrease the stroke as the calibration of hammers length, springs length, end cap / adjuster are such that free flight is maintained. Make the hammer longer this balance can quickly go away with hammer finding itself in preload to poppet degrading the guns air efficiency.

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Thank you, Scott
Your advice is always appreciated & well taken
I do understand the effect capping the hammer can have on things
If I were to obtain a spare Vet 1 hammer, do I stand a chance of accomplishing encapsulation with only a drill press & hand tools?
I'm sure you can tell that I have no machinist training
Edward

I’ve never seen an oil filled pressure gauge with the pressure switch like that, that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. I’m unsure how conductive glycerin is…

OldVet said:

Ok did not want to keep me up at night , so de gassed it , and found the bottle block to be very loose , and the gap between the bottle , and regulator was not helping. It's not perfect. Nothing is
Like "Wabi-Sabi" which means "Nothing is Perfect"
Wabi- refers to simplicity, humility, and quietness. Often associated with rustic beauty, or imperfection.
Sabi- Evokes the beauty that comes with age , wear , and the passage of time.
Together Wabi-Sabi is a profound
Japanese aesthetic that findes beauty in imperfection , impermanence, and incompleteness. Like weathered wood , cracked pottery , patina on a old revolver , or the silence of a foggy morning. Anyway now you know a word in Japanese.Lol.

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arigatou

scopecreep... said:

Have no idea regarding a light tune in a .177. My .22 is a laser like my IZH46M. At 17 foot pounds with cheap Crosman hollow points it wallops starlings.

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@scopecreep... sorry this is a old post I’m using for classifieds reasons please let me know if you want to sell that dreamline compact

Well, I pulled the reg and everything looked good, except for two things (that I saw):

Piston and Belleville washers were dripping in lube, literally wet as if they were simply dumped in a jar of thin lube…

Second, it seems the stack is grabbing the housing:



Not sure how this could cause the set point creeping down though…

So in the end nothing obvious and I simply ran it through standard polishing procedure… can’t tell you whether it worked though because the rifle is now leaking air out of the barrel as fast as I can fill it. Used a burst from a tank, cocked while filling etc but air simply rushing through… so the valve’s up next I guess…

Firefighter & then fire systems designer, installer, tech & licensed hydrotester. NEVER personally had one fail or seen it happen in 30 years. They're designed NOT to go boom so I don't worry about it more than I need to. Had to fail tanks for recertification due to age but not failure.

PowerDan said:

I have a .30 bullpup would this work or could you share stk so I could modify it to work or maybe help you modify this one and purchase one?

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This would not work at all for the non-side lever guns. Those are vastly different and have changes that depend on the year the gun was made. I know, at the least, early non-sidelever bullpups have different tube sizes.
I will not share any of my STL's or cad files. I takes a lot of work to design these and that is what I am selling.

Bandito said:

Scopecreep sent a PM to you. An answer sort of! Be Well My Pistoleros, Bandito.

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@scopecreep... tried to PM you about the dreamline you are selling. I’m in kalifornia too and would love to pick it up. I’m new here and don’t know how this messaging system works.

GLYCERIN, and you can add more if you choose. Good to have that type mounted on compressor to quell vibration but not necessary on parts like fill adapter but doesn't hurt either.

The dual tower Tuxing has been pulling every bit of moisture out of my air for over two years.

cvarcher said:

Hey thats a nice stock!!! I wonder if that was made by Cocuran ? I like that it covers the hinged block area I too have a second Hw30s in the R7 flavor. Its a .177cal and its scoped. Ver y deadly accurate.Again a Vortek PG4 kit plus it had a full Custom tune by Paul Watts using the sunnen hone to true up the compression chamber. Its shooting 7.3gr jsb pellets at jst over 700fps. &.83gr express at 685fps. 8 ft lb . The 22cal using those no lead GTO Predator domes make 9ft/ lbs .

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Thank you! It was a special order AOA marked rifle. They were offering a few models in walnut. I do have a Steve Corcoran stocked .177 cal. HW30. Beautiful rifle.

tellis said:

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I have sent you PM's and emails.

I have a .30 bullpup would this work or could you share stk so I could modify it to work or maybe help you modify this one and purchase one?

I know that a lot of people have had good experiences with used airguns and relatively few bad ones. Still, I'm very nervous buying used and dealing with someone, somewhere, I don't know personally.

I do a lot of gunsmithing for friends and seen many used and abused airguns that have been "fixed" or "upgraded" by amateurs who shouldn't be allowed to have a screwdriver.

The casual "tuners" who are always looking for maximum power are the biggest concern - the damage they can do to an airgun is internal and not always apparent by buggered screws.

"Open box" deals are questionable, professionally refurbished items are probably fine.

Personally, I prefer to buy new, pay the asking price and get the manufacturer's warranty and a dealers after sales support. IMHO, unless I know the specific item and the owner, the money saved buying used is not worth the risk of getting damaged goods.

On the flip-side, if you are mechanically inclined, buying a "parts gun" or a damaged gun can be a fun project. By trading some old archery gear, I got a slightly used FX Crown that had been tuned to the point it wouldn't shoot worth a darn. A couple of hours work has yielded my favorite PCP that shoots sub-MOA at 50 yards

If gambling and saving some money is exciting to you - go for it!

...just my (paranoid) opinion.

Cheers and good luck!

Don't think I'd change anything. I had to WORK to get my initial guns (& myself) to perform acceptably and by the time better equipment came my way I found myself to be a competent shooter. I'm glad things happened as they did & don't want to screw with success.

Skip .177 break barrel
Skip .22 break barrel
Skip Semiauto PCP
Start with Air Force Condor .22
Modify the Condor to figure out the engineering
Then start buying old used rifles

Still would buy my Niksan and Reximex rifles new.

Orv said:

I don't believe that theTX200 is made in a stainless steel model. Air Arms is famous for their perfect blueing, quite satisfactory on my TX200 after more than 5 years. If the stainless look is important to you, several fine Weihrauch springers are sold through Air Guns of Arizona have the stainless look.

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Did I mention stainless?

glr59 said:

I've become a big fan of shooting a gun within the parameters of it's design. I've spent way too much over the yrs experimenting with "upgrades." Which leads me to a caliber question. I have a .22 cal HM1000X and would like to toy with a larger caliber. This is for punching paper and accuracy out to 100yards, no hunting. Within the design of a stock HM1000x is it pushing the gun too far with a .30cal? Is the gun going to be happier running with .25cal ammo?

Thanks for the info
Jerry L.

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Jerry

I bought my RAW HM1000x .22 from SPAW in 2018/19 timeframe. I used it exclusively for 100Y BR Target shooting. Martin built it to spec with the Poly barrel to shoot the JSB 25.39g redesign pellets at 935 FPS.

In 2019-2021 time frame, GTA had a monthly 100y informal NUAH ( nothing under a hundred yards) target challenge, which I absolutely loved. I think I participated every month for about two years. The RAW shot consistently very well at my outdoor local range, and I had quite a few NUAH cards that were very solid. I had the random fliers and wind reading challenges, but I was interested in trying a .30 cal barrel to see if I could improve.

Sent it back to Martin and he put on a new .30 cal barrel and pellet probe. I shot the JSB 44.g and although it did well, I ultimately decided to go back to the .22 cal setup. I still have an almost new .30 cal barrel and probe keeping the gun safe warm.

If the AEA 51g and 45g were available at the time, I would have been more patient and practiced more with the .30 caliber. My sense is that you should try the barrel swap and give it a go with these two pellet choices. Quench your thirst.

Until I saw this post, I nearly forgot about having the .30 barrel in the safe. Was going to sell, but maybe I’ll hold off for a bit.

Tom

I've got heavier duty Teflon tape in 3 different colors. As long as it works I'm good. Thought I was ocd & anal but you surpassed me .

Ones I can recommend.

A decent compressor is getting up there with being an essential item. I use a Coltri MCH6.

Buy decent quality riflescopes and Red Dots. Athlon is my #1 choice by far.
Get good qaulity rings and mounts too.

Genrally using pellets for close to mid distance and slugs for longer distances.

The latest version Thomas Slug gun for Benchrest which could cross over for benched varminting/long range varminting, or for long range on steel. There's no other airgun as solidly built and precise as these.

Likewise for Field Target comps the Thomas FT, which can be converted to a pistol as well, if one has the right size version. Super nice guns that are built like tanks.

"So far for me" for a semiauto, the Steyr ProX is tops IMHO. They shoot very well for a semi, are reliable if kept within the optimal pressure range for proper function, but however a little heavy and not sure I'd be walking around hunting with mine a bunch, well haven't. These are fun guns if you just want to shoot fast on steel.
My opinion could change soon once I get some time behind my new Western Morax Venom semi, which I haven't shot yet, but there's zero doubt I'd rather use the Venom for walk around hunting on small game at normal airgun distances due to it's lightweight. I like semi's a lot.

AGT Vulcan 3 for ELR with 60gr Altaros slugs having a .245 G1 BC. Super reliable, surprisingly precise, and a best bang for the buck.

FWB 600-603 series for 10 meter because it's a single pump pneumatic Olympic match rifle. Best to use the aperture sights due to scope mounting issues.

Low power plinking my Steyr LGB1 is a wonderful little rifle for this and it has a very unique cocking mechanism.

The older FX Royales are decent.

Steyr PL5 or LP50 for a semiauto Olympic match pistols.

specie said:

Agree, but I've found a few times on really older airguns (Walther LG55, Anschutz 250 specifically) that the new springs are longer than the older! I just wondered if a spring that had almost never been used, as on this FWB would need replace? Maybe the metal gets less "springy" with time?

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The spring over time will take on a little set. So, it will be shorter than a new one. But so will the new one. The spring in my 57 year old FWB is still shooting at factory specs with the new seals I just installed. The old saying still holds true, “don’t fix it when it ain’t broke”.

Your videos are helpful for hunters getting scoped no fun would you know if the Tex Rex is coming in a .457 carbine