DesertSilver said:

Remember, the hammer spring tension needs to be strong enough to open the poppet valve. The higher the reg setting the more tension is needed. It's a balance.

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thank you for your help and advise how many turns does the huma regulator need we've been told 2 then 3 we aren't sure tbh if you could give me some advice there please I'd appreciate it

OldVet said:

I used the metal pp750 baffles I accidentally got from Wes at AAF , And put them in my tactical Gauntlet SL 22. There metal , fit better have a smaller hole work better. I also put some clear plastic tubing on the Gauntlet barrel. Much more Quiet now. OV.

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Nice. Let me know if you ever need some more. I took the shroud off and use an adapter.

Scotty1 said:

That would keep me up at night, something’s all caddywhompus there.

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Caddywhompus I like that word.
It's like combobulated.

Scotty1 said:

That would keep me up at night, something’s all caddywhompus there.

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The bottle is out of alignment.
The barrel is great
At least it's pointing up Lol
I'll degas it , and take a look tomorrow.

Wouldn’t change a thing… Started with a Gamo Urban .22 and a handpump… The kills at distance I made with that gun compared to my previous experience with springers? Left me seriously impressed with the potential of PCPs. An unregulated Brocock Compatto was my second and it simply was stellar. I regret parting with it still… My particular journey was incremental as my wallet allowed, but looking back the only thing I would do differently? Purchase a high quality HPAC on my first, not second go around…

Probably just get some to hunt with,and not so many. I know I have over 60

357cal said:

Even if you're 70 yards way, no scope is your best bet. The charging bear can cover 70 yards in 3 sec and I'm not going to pullup a rifle and have time to look for my target no matter what the scope. If I'm going to hunt in brown bear country, I'm carrying a .44 magnum 300–340 gr hard-cast lead and at least 1 month of under pressure practice before hand!!!! Thank GOD I live in N.Y.

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I like my 1X4 Nikon African set at 1 power, both eyes open.



I use Warne return to zero QR rings for reversion to iron sights. One of a dozen or so Marlins I have, a GBL in .45-70.

I own mine for about a year and a half. Mine is in 177. I never had a problem with it, but I noticed the power starts pretty high and it drops very fast so I cut the spring and after that the speed stabilize and now I have About 20 shots while I’m target after that the speed it starts dropping just never let it go down to low on pressure and it’ll be OK. I use 14 round and nine round magazines so in one packet I can carry all the rounds. The gun can shoot with the full chart I got it on sale for something like $100 to deliver it to my house so I’m pretty happy with it. Sometimes I use a scope. The little guy is pretty accurate of about 30 yards but most of the time I just got it set up to be a super light God without a scope the sites that come in it work pretty good for me. If you can get one out of decent price I would say go ahead and get it.

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I lube along all the mating V grooves as highlighted. My initial tightening is with just bottom ring/clamp half. I push it forward to the rail lug and tighten each screw a little at a time as I wiggle it side to side so both wedge pieces and the ring body "find their center" with each other and the picatinny rail. Once these are torqued down I do the inserts and ring caps.

If I take the scope off for whatever reason and re-mount it then I'll push it forward and give it the side-to-side wiggle while torquing. If I don't do this the horizontal plane is usually off quite a bit.

If all you need is a barrel scraper, You can get a grade eight washer and shape it to what ever size/shape you need, heat it to cherry red and quinch it in oil, polish it as bright as possible and put it in the oven 400 degrees for one hour. you will have a good scraper. Made many of them for different shape cuts.
Cheers

So you mounted these before but never shot with them, correct? As mentioned, the cant in your inserts might account for 1-2 MOA if that.

Lightly applying a lubricant to the Picatinny rail on the gun, the bottom of the ring bases, or the steel clamps that secure the ring base to the rail can help the ring slide into natural alignment rather than sticking as you tighten the base screws.

I install the ring bases to the gun. Place bottom inserts into the mounted rings, scope into those inserts. Adjust eye relief and rough level. Install the top inserts into the top of the ring caps and place them gently over the scope and press down toward the ring base. Use a methodical cross pattern for tightening while keeping an eye on levelness. It is tedious, but I’ve mounted dozens this way and have it down to a few minute process.

Last note that I’ve mentioned in other Burris ring threads, some rings are just poorly machined. Most of mine have been good, but I have a 30mm set that requires almost 15MOA of windage correction to center the scope. If you have the time and curiosity, try switching rings front to back or rotate each one 180 degrees in place and observe what happens to your point of impact. Good luck.

Got the rifle finished up while waiting for parts for another impulse buy. The new ARH spring got a delrin top hat made and I used the factory spring guide as it was about as close to a perfect fit as I would make myself. The steel washer with the factory guide was polished to a mirror finish, and burnished with some ARH moly. I also reused the factory piston seal , I didn’t see anything wrong with it although I found it to be a little tight before I sized it to my liking.
I mounted an Athlon 10 x 42 in the lowest rings I had available , still too high for a good cheek weld. A new lower set is in order. I just finished sighting in and tensioning the sled to where I found it to be most accurate. While also playing with the stock screw torque. At 35 yards shooting either the 10.3 or 8.4 JSB’s one ragged hole groups. I’m pretty happy with the way it shoots. The sled action is quite different to any other springer I’ve ever owned or shot. Once I put a ton of pellets through it I’ll see what I’m getting for velocity, I’m not chasing power on this one , just want a good solid performer with mild manners.
I did have to make quite the elevation adjustment on this scope . I’m thinking illl have to go with a droop mount to get it closer to optical center. Any suggestions on a good droop mount for a 30mm scope?

I would try to cover more bases with fewer guns. A .22 Black Wolf and a .25 FX king with a GRS stock and a compressor should account for my multitudes of BR and FT sins.

Ron

Nothing much different LOL That rabbit hole holds all types of airguns

It looks great! Thanks for the update.

Tru-Oil next?

Cheers,

J~

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WV has been unusually hot the last month or so. It is cool today but rainy off and on.

Hateful McNasty said:

Is this sale of interest ?

https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/8000185/10495049.htm

Looks like the part your needing and soild machined part ?

Too bad no pictures

Good luck

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I think I need to figure out why this happened before replacing any parts. Need an xray to see how it looks locked up. Good to know that is the part though, just ordered some bits from ARH yesterday.