FYI, I GO TO THE DESERT IN BARSTOW/ YERMO CA AND LET ME TELL IS HOT BY 6/7 AM IS ALREADY 70/75 AND WINDY FROM 5/25 MPH
WICH FOR US PUSHING PELLETS IS A LOT . FROM NOON TO 5/6PM IS ON THE HUNDREDS. JUST

Central O-H-I-O

I went back to see my notes for some classes i took as I struggled with similar issues.

As you've stated a lightweight platform would be a big part of the challenge.



If it's ok to post, here are some other thoughts that others experiencing the same challenge might consider:

My instructors in both shotgun as well as long distance rifle shooting often stressed the importance of "marrying" the rifle to the shoulder by which they meant establishing firm reproducible contact with the body aligned to the axis of the firearm. The rifle becomes part of you, you must own the rifle as though it were an appendage but not force it into behaving.

Maintaining constant but not exaggerated pressure to the rear with the body relaxed....basically acting like a dead sack behind the rifle with the recoil pad settled into your chest...let the rifle recoil straight and accommodated back into you but not bouncing off of you.

aintain tension in the shoulder not the rearward pressure of the arm i.e. not pulling back on the rifle.

shoulders should be relaxed...so each and every setting is the same and there is no correctional inputs or force deviations

Really important to bring the rifle to the shoulder first, setting that up as move into position, the bipod holds it in place so you can relax the shoulders at the same time.

a bit of preload into the bipod.

anyway, these considerations helped me a lot so i kept the notes for reference. thought maybe it might help others facing the same challenge.

maybe air rifles like very heavy recoiling platforms need different considerations...I only shot 12 gauge shotguns and up to 7mm long range rifle.

Hopefully op will share more about the story, make, and age of the cylinder. I've been in hpa for 25 years and I've yet to see a failure as mentioned. It nice to hear it was a slow failure, liner pitting I bet.

but you have to understand the rifle first off
a 150 or 300 have a breech seal if it is blue it is just fine if the piston buffer is blue also fine
seals over time
white or cream-blue-green-red
both have steel piston rings and will last as they state 100,000 shots
the springs plural are short and in the 300 but the 150 did come with one as shown at Feinwerkbau

https://www.feinwerkbau.de/en/service/downloads/technical-information/exploded-drawings

Hi Warren, it's great to have you back. Our next match is Saturday August 30th at Mass Rifle Association in Woburn Ma massrifle.com An easy way to remember is that we shoot the last Saturday of every month. You can also find more matches in New England here Matches & Standings

Thanks again and I hope to see you soon. Oh, and just to tickle you a bit, Nationals is being held in Vernon CT at Rockville Fish ad Game this year. Sign up before September to avoid a higher fee.

This listing has been renewed

Southern Indiana right on the Ohio river

student said:

interesting, thank you

i wonder why it jumps so much?

Click to expand...

I said I believe it's because it's lightweight. Very good for offhand and maybe a bit finicky for bench.

it is hard to see how the trigger assembly works without that piece
at least you have a complete one to copy off of

drumie said:

As some may know the one downfall to the RTI Mora is the bottle rail. It isn't very sturdy, it has some wiggle to it. I came up with a fix for it. Here is the list of what I used.
Saber Tactical 60mm bottle clamp. I used the arca one.
Seekins 10 inch Arca rail.
You will need a 10x24 tap, hack saw, belt sander.
I cut off the arca rail on the clamp with the hack saw. Then sanded it down so it would fit under the rail. Then I lined it up with the hole in the Seekins rail, after I mounted it to the Mora rail. I marked where to drill and tap the clamp. Taped it with the 10/24 tap. Put the clamp on loose so you can get it all lined up, then tighten it all down. The screw that comes with the rail fits perfectly. Once it is all tighten down it is now very solid. View attachment 582714View attachment 582718
View attachment 582720

Click to expand...

Nice, that works perfectly!

interesting, thank you

i wonder why it jumps so much?

DesertSilver said:

Did your rifle have a reg factory new? If so, yes you just install it with no machining.

Click to expand...

hi thank you for getting back to me, and yes it came with a factory regulator new, the only problem is we asked huma-air to set it for me at 12 lb which they never, we still don't know if it need's to be sorted out before it goes into the air cylinder, because you're meant to screw it at the top then underneath thank you

Firefighter for 25 yrs full time dept never had one blow . Anything is possible , they will start leaking at the neck or if the carbon fiber starts to delaminate .
Ray

bchannell said:

Ok looks like he has some 25 cal pellet molds left. Yell me I should buy one. I shoot a lot of 25 stuff. Are the pellets good?

Click to expand...

Time for some enabling, buy one. I have a few molds and haven't gotten to casting yet but the opportunity is there when I'm ready. And if they don't work for me I'm sure i can get most of my money back.

Remember, the hammer spring tension needs to be strong enough to open the poppet valve. The higher the reg setting the more tension is needed. It's a balance.

I've got a 30 year old daisy (gamo contracted) that still cronos with the factory spec. I can't remember the model number and it's at work, but it's had thousands of cycles and is still going strong in spec. If it's the theory of spring memory, that's basically a non issue too if it's not a super budget gun ime. I've had powder burner mags loaded for decades and they haven't suffered memory either (I do annual checks)

Will adding another Oring work or will cause a leak? Just curious?

I don't find a significant difference between the US and Spanish CPHP 14.3 g .22s. I will continue experimenting as my two FX Streamlines, FX DRS, AA S510XS, and Aremex Gauntlet seem to like them. They generally do better, or close enough to more than justify the cost difference against JSB & H&N.

I shoot (500) - (1,000) each week, but since conditions are often windy, I am reluctant to state hard conclusions, OTOH I am closing on 90,000 pellets, 95% CPHP in the last (3) years shooting.

JSB are often skirt-damaged in shipment, and H&N are not nesessarily as well received on average by my guns.

Being in Canada, does insert some serious cost, choice/availabilty, and shipping issues. I am down to less than (20) tins of CPHP so need to start shopping.

Will need to dig around as I may have exhausted my US supply. I prefer US to other countries, simply because I have far more American friends than any other nationality.

That I shoot silhouettes, off the bench, from 40 to 160 meters (mostly 50 yards and 160 meters) adds a dimentia that others don't experience.

I have found that weighing and sorting to 1/10 grain batches cuts down on flyers.

We all gotta live somewhere

I fill my own tanks, therefore I do not re-certify them. I do inspect them for surface damage which could lead to a rupture, otherwise, I feel that my few fill cycles will not approach the fatigue limit of the tank. If you have to have them filled at a fill station or dive shop, then you'll have to certify them. The annual inspection consists of draining the tank, removing the valve and inspecting the interior for moisture and/or corrosion. You can do that yourself if you feel so moved. The 5 year inspection consists of inflating the tank to 6000 psi; too much IMO.

Did your rifle have a reg factory new? If so, yes you just install it with no machining.

Just a follow up...today in the mailbox was a box from Hatsan USA. I guess I would consider that good customer service. Took less than 2 weeks, no questions asked...Just "we will send you a new part."

Tony Leach short stroke kit time or warranty it on the cheap. That is a bit scary, did the big black nut unscrew like Frank suggested?