DesertSilver said:

This is what I've been using. It's not cheap but really works good.

https://merrittsupply.com/product/miracle-gloss-8-maximum-mold-release-wax/

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Can you explain this:
World’s first non-flammable paste wax designed for FRP and other Composites molding.
and this?

It says: Danger: Flammable solid.

I can't quite follow the logic of

• Danger: Flammable solid in photo
• World’s first non-flammable paste wax designed for FRP and other Composites molding.

???

I believe you that it's probably good stuff, but their marketing department needs to go back to school.

If memory serves the broken piece is part of the “bear trap” or “drop” safety system. It’s the piece located on the right side of the the picture. Doesn’t effect the trigger function. Borrowed picture.

I have the same compressor. Some gauges have oil to dampen the needle movement caused by compressor vibration. Instead of the needle showing a steady rise, it would show a blur like movement until the compressor stopped. My gauge is also not full.

Oh - and yes I will remind myself to clean it before running it - as it does have oil on some surfaces that I am sure will get hot once is starts to run. Excited

I did find an 8 year old video and the bottom of the gauge appears to be fluid filled - which I am sure that similar to vehicle gauges it helps with the vibrations.

This was the video

Here is a pic

Next thing you know it'll be cold in the winter ...

joeayv said:

R-10.

View attachment 582679

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That's 17.5 fpe for jsb and 18.6 fpe for the FTT. If I'm correct in thinking that gun has the same bore and stroke as a Hw95 that is a lot of power for that caliber and gun. That's R1 territory.

Hw95s in 20 caliber usually make ~16fpe with vortek kit and seal. I have three and done a few others. Either I'm wrong in thinking a R10 is the same B/S as a Hw95, your chronograph is off or your gun is dieseling.

That's too much power for a 20 cal Hw95 to make without dieseling.

Oh man that’s a nice group Caleb, at 109 yards and it looks a bit windy as well.
I had to watch it again.

Hunter

reiffra945 said:

Central O-H-I-O

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OH!

Racer88 said:

I'm not sure I have a use for a tripod. I like a bipod in that I still have control over the rifle. I use a bipod in the front and a squeeze bag in the rear.

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Racer88 said:

I'm not sure I have a use for a tripod. I like a bipod in that I still have control over the rifle. I use a bipod in the front and a squeeze bag in the rear.

View attachment 582226

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When needed I use a rear bag

FYI, I GO TO THE DESERT IN BARSTOW/ YERMO CA AND LET ME TELL IS HOT BY 6/7 AM IS ALREADY 70/75 AND WINDY FROM 5/25 MPH
WICH FOR US PUSHING PELLETS IS A LOT . FROM NOON TO 5/6PM IS ON THE HUNDREDS. JUST

Central O-H-I-O

I went back to see my notes for some classes i took as I struggled with similar issues.

As you've stated a lightweight platform would be a big part of the challenge.



If it's ok to post, here are some other thoughts that others experiencing the same challenge might consider:

My instructors in both shotgun as well as long distance rifle shooting often stressed the importance of "marrying" the rifle to the shoulder by which they meant establishing firm reproducible contact with the body aligned to the axis of the firearm. The rifle becomes part of you, you must own the rifle as though it were an appendage but not force it into behaving.

Maintaining constant but not exaggerated pressure to the rear with the body relaxed....basically acting like a dead sack behind the rifle with the recoil pad settled into your chest...let the rifle recoil straight and accommodated back into you but not bouncing off of you.

aintain tension in the shoulder not the rearward pressure of the arm i.e. not pulling back on the rifle.

shoulders should be relaxed...so each and every setting is the same and there is no correctional inputs or force deviations

Really important to bring the rifle to the shoulder first, setting that up as move into position, the bipod holds it in place so you can relax the shoulders at the same time.

a bit of preload into the bipod.

anyway, these considerations helped me a lot so i kept the notes for reference. thought maybe it might help others facing the same challenge.

maybe air rifles like very heavy recoiling platforms need different considerations...I only shot 12 gauge shotguns and up to 7mm long range rifle.

Hopefully op will share more about the story, make, and age of the cylinder. I've been in hpa for 25 years and I've yet to see a failure as mentioned. It nice to hear it was a slow failure, liner pitting I bet.

but you have to understand the rifle first off
a 150 or 300 have a breech seal if it is blue it is just fine if the piston buffer is blue also fine
seals over time
white or cream-blue-green-red
both have steel piston rings and will last as they state 100,000 shots
the springs plural are short and in the 300 but the 150 did come with one as shown at Feinwerkbau

https://www.feinwerkbau.de/en/service/downloads/technical-information/exploded-drawings

Hi Warren, it's great to have you back. Our next match is Saturday August 30th at Mass Rifle Association in Woburn Ma massrifle.com An easy way to remember is that we shoot the last Saturday of every month. You can also find more matches in New England here Matches & Standings

Thanks again and I hope to see you soon. Oh, and just to tickle you a bit, Nationals is being held in Vernon CT at Rockville Fish ad Game this year. Sign up before September to avoid a higher fee.

This listing has been renewed

Southern Indiana right on the Ohio river

student said:

interesting, thank you

i wonder why it jumps so much?

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I said I believe it's because it's lightweight. Very good for offhand and maybe a bit finicky for bench.

it is hard to see how the trigger assembly works without that piece
at least you have a complete one to copy off of

drumie said:

As some may know the one downfall to the RTI Mora is the bottle rail. It isn't very sturdy, it has some wiggle to it. I came up with a fix for it. Here is the list of what I used.
Saber Tactical 60mm bottle clamp. I used the arca one.
Seekins 10 inch Arca rail.
You will need a 10x24 tap, hack saw, belt sander.
I cut off the arca rail on the clamp with the hack saw. Then sanded it down so it would fit under the rail. Then I lined it up with the hole in the Seekins rail, after I mounted it to the Mora rail. I marked where to drill and tap the clamp. Taped it with the 10/24 tap. Put the clamp on loose so you can get it all lined up, then tighten it all down. The screw that comes with the rail fits perfectly. Once it is all tighten down it is now very solid. View attachment 582714View attachment 582718
View attachment 582720

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Nice, that works perfectly!