drumie said:

As some may know the one downfall to the RTI Mora is the bottle rail. It isn't very sturdy, it has some wiggle to it. I came up with a fix for it. Here is the list of what I used.
Saber Tactical 60mm bottle clamp. I used the arca one.
Seekins 10 inch Arca rail.
You will need a 10x24 tap, hack saw, belt sander.
I cut off the arca rail on the clamp with the hack saw. Then sanded it down so it would fit under the rail. Then I lined it up with the hole in the Seekins rail, after I mounted it to the Mora rail. I marked where to drill and tap the clamp. Taped it with the 10/24 tap. Put the clamp on loose so you can get it all lined up, then tighten it all down. The screw that comes with the rail fits perfectly. Once it is all tighten down it is now very solid.

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Nice work!
I didn't like the wiggle either so I just put some 3m backed rubber strips, cut to 1" and stacked on top of each other inside the rail until they touched the bottle.
They are 1"x1/8"
It's solid now but I see that could be an option as well.. Good job !

blueflax said:

Mid 90s today. Not as hot, but at 5200 feet its a scorcher.

Ron

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For 5200ft that is hot... I'm just over 2,000 ft here in Kearny AZ

Mid 90s today. Not as hot, but at 5200 feet its a scorcher.

Ron

I have one of these:



The problem was in the cylinder itself. It went bad right before it went out of its three-month warranty, so Amazon gave me a refund and said, "Keep it." After flailing around trying to buy the right parts for this thing, I said the heck with it and just bought the whole cylinder assembly.



So if you're sure the problem is in there...

ISO/CE are ten billion % fine. The DOT certification game is exactly as humbled.ag: said. Let me highlight this because this is the only truth.

humbled.ag said:

Another consideration is that a 15yr tank in the US is a 30yr tank in Europe. The same exact tank.

Most of the DOT and Certification bs is driven by tort law and insurance companies in the event of a failure. That's not to say we shouldn't have standards, but *I* think it's mostly about money. You're not missing anything. As I stated, using tanks that are past cert or don't have dot certification are to be used at your own discretion and comfort level.

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^^^^^^YES^^^^^^

This listing has been renewed

No.

JaketheMeatGOD said:

Thanks, I appreciate that.
I personally love rugged highlands, but we also have ultra-flat lands between mountain ranges like this:
Which is perfect for bikes or just running around.

View attachment 582697 View attachment 582696
View attachment 582695

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So green lol...miss that here in the desert but I spent 30 years in Wisconsin, plenty of green out there.

Where at in West Texas are you? I am in Odessa,
Now back to the tanks, Carbon fiber is for safety,, I would not trust anything else,
Mike

JaketheMeatGOD said:

Thank you, Zeke. Arizona is lovely, too.

Nice setup you got there, what do you do with a .30 cal beast like that? Target, Hunt?

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Target and hunt. Mainly rabbits and rock squirrels but gonna start actively going for coyote. I've been shooting a Daystate Pulsar .177 a lot lately just because it's so nice to shoot but missed a couple chances to get a coyote because I didn't have the .30 cal Vulcan 3 with me so mainly take out the .30 now when I go just in case. Here's my area, similar to yours. Vid is 90 yard headshot on rock squirrel with the .30 and 53yd headshot on rabbit with the Pulsar HP 177.

Love shooting both but the Pulsar is fun, I've taken rabbits over 80 yds with it and just am amazed by it.

Also hunt quail and dove with both, obviously with the .30 I'm only taking headshots or else nothing of the meat is left

A.G.R said:

Is it the New .905 27 coil one or the .860 spring. Use a new Vac seal. They are sized well for R1 and will shoot in fast.

Make sure to lightly ease the bottom outside rails of the shoe before install, a tiny file works to micro flatten them

ALSO YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED TO RELIEVE A TINE BIT OF MATERIAL ON THE REAR OF THE COCKING HOOK TO ALOW THE NEW SHOE TO INSTALL AND ROTATE DURING COCKING. View attachment 582709
take just enough so the shoe lays flat and come on and off ..YOU WILL NEED A SMALL BELT SANDER OR 1 inch grinding wheel

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yes sir and thank you... i just did that on another r10 but that one was in 177. as for the kit ... this is the one i just got

Did test it with the same settings as the .22 and .30 but that did not work.
50 joule it was nice to schoot but not what I want, the .22 does 67 joule and the .30 does 115 with the same settings.

Will increase pressure from 155 to 180 bar and will place an 45cc Plenum

Hung the fx chrony on the bottle and recorded 12 (one mag) 15.89 hades and 24 CPHP.
Hades averaged 899fps and 28FPE.

Crosman averaged 928fps and 27FPE.

The pressure gauge started at 280b and indicated 170b after 36 shots.

The groups were pretty good for me at 4 cups of coffee and dripping sweat in the Mississippi swampy air. The backing for my splatter target is pretty much gone so the shots tear the paper....that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

No jams with the Hades on the one mag I have fired so far today.

I personally wouldn’t even do this but only buy their stuff from in stock items at other retailers. High Pressure Pneumatics is an example.

Georgii Arapov said:

Good to know as I am planning to sell Leshiy 9mm soon.

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I would just suggest doing a bunch of research beforehand to get a grasp on market value. I cruise the classifieds here and all over online constantly. The number in many people’s mind is much too high for their equipment. They probably don’t do any checking.

I have a new Mora in 25 cal which I purchased from Talon. Two questions. My shroud, at the rearmost end, is fitted to the clamping collet with four screws to secure it to the barrel. I have read the technique to put the shroud into compression but this end piece has two O-rings &, as I tighten the other end cap, the second O-ring gets squeezed out from the shroud. I don’t know what purpose the second O-ring serves but it is preventing much compression being applied to tension the barrel. The second question is the dwell adj w/the perforated holes. Is the adj procedure to loosen the large, thin locking nut, then turn the perforated tube or do I insert a hex wrench to turn the internal screw inside the perforated tube which seems to turn freely at the moment?

I’m still plinking away this weekend with my PP750. Ripping 8.4gr after 8.4gr. Two squirrels this morning. One with my Notos and one with the PP750.

This is what I've been using. It's not cheap but really works good.

They are everywhere here. Have to fence everything in that has to do with landscape decor or it’s eaten. Super annoying and they paw the snow up in winter to get to the grass and pummel my lawn. To the point I want to basically take them all out but they are so tame , no challenge and could maybe use meat from one per year so we deal with it.

You will be 1000000000000000000 % fine with a new CE cert tank for filling yourself.

gwbella said:

Does anyone know a repair center for a Spritech 4500psi compressor. I picked one up through an auction. The fan and motor run but it seems as though the pump is not actually engaging. I can't find a repair service anywhere. I have Googled a lot.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Its either the piston rings or
Tighten all the fittings. Make certain your gauge and bleed screw are tight and sealed. Make. Make sure your fill.whip and filters are sealed.

You can buy a new piston on Amazon for 25-30 bucks or.piston rings. 39x1.5

You get no pressure on a deadhead?