Am I getting this straight. You ordered rifles from AoA , had them shipped to Airgun archery fun for import reasons . Then Wes shipped them to you? If that’s right , I had no idea this was even possible . I’ve looked at many a good deal on the AoA website and thought too bad there was no way to get one up here to Canada.


Oh ya. That’s got to be the nicest HW95 I’ve seen. Very nice collection you’ve got going.

Devink said:

Fun combination. Short video

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COOL .

These are the ones I am most fond of, and in that order.

Illannoy

JungleShooter said:

➊ One of the current drawbacks of digital scopes is the lack of rapid adjustment of elevation and windage.
Sure, it's not problema if you have one with a range finder, or if you want to use holdover. But I'm a die-hard dialer, so... — gimme some turrets!
➠ This would be a very easy fix.


➋ Another current drawback for me is the long time it takes to power up the unit. For rapid shots when stalking this is just too slow.
➠ But no doubt, this will improve drastically soon.


➌ I expect that these 2 hurdles to digital replacing glass will be overcome soon.
However, hurdle number 3 is the image quality for long range shots and for seeing small kill zones.
And that's a much bigger technological challenge, and one that might take a whoooole lot longer to overcome.

➠ I will continue to trust in glass, all the while using digital when needed.
Glass at least has no malfunctioning or discontinued apps.

Matthias

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“I’m a die-hard dialer—gimme some turrets!”
As far as distance with a digital scope, if you're shooting a pcp you will never run out of scope or as you say:

image quality for long range shots and for seeing small kill zones.

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Totally get it. Dialing’s tactile, precise, and muscle-memory fast for experienced shooters. But in dynamic setups:

• Most digital platforms allow precise holdover with real-time ballistic overlays.
• Paired with a laser rangefinder, you’re already on target before any turret twist.
• As for lacking tactile feedback? Easy fix—some units now emulate turret adjustments digitally, and physical hybrid controls are coming.

Glass might win for mechanical satisfaction, but digital wins when speed and adaptation matter.

➋ Slow Power-Up Time​

🗣 “For rapid shots when stalking, it’s just too slow.”

Fair. Earlier units were sluggish to boot. But newer optics—especially those geared for hunting—have:

• Fast-boot modes
• Sleep timers with instant wake
• Remote activation via e-caller or wrist toggles

This isn’t a hardware limit—it’s a firmware tweak. And yeah, it’s already improving with every release.

➌ Image Quality at Long Range​

🗣 “Glass still beats digital for spotting small kill zones.”

Right now? That’s true. Edge clarity, color fidelity, and definition in digital scopes can’t yet match a $2k+ Schmidt & Bender or Nightforce lens stack.

But:

• Many IR-capable digitals aren’t built for long-range glass-level clarity—they’re designed for low-light engagement, tracking, and threat ID.
• Glass scopes struggle in total darkness, fog, or thermal contrast zones—where digital thrives.
• And digital zoom + high-res sensors are improving fast.

This is the real race: image fidelity vs. adaptive visibility. Both have their zone.

Field Takeaway​

Glass offers fail-proof simplicity, pristine optics, and tactile control—no argument there. But digital gives:

• Faster multi-target acquisition
• Ballistic auto-compensation
• Seamless transitions across light and distance

In a blind, with IR, thermals, and multitasking under pressure, digital wins me time. Glass wins me stillness.

Why not use both? Just don’t tell me turret dialing beats real-time ballistic overlays for pure speed. Let’s keep it honest—and field-tested.

Anyone else out there ?

Motorhead said:

From May 0f 2013 ... ( Quoted ) from an early tuning post over 2 years ago.
* BTW have sense in .22 cal opened vent a tad more and muzzle report is quieter, ES values tighter.
* Using SAE spec Wire Drills from a 60-80 size set. You may have metric wire drill sets as well in the UK

Next mod a few weeks later was too open up the bleed hole on poppets head by @ 10% This was taking the existing .035" hole up .002" to .037"
Doing the math on AREA it only took .002" adding the @ 10%
Reason here was to get a tad faster fill on backside of spool valve piston speeding up the closing cycle just a tad & figured all things relative @ ( 10% )
* This mod cost me just a tad in power/speed requiring @ 35-40 psi more pressure for equal power ... Very minor IMO
Tad bump on reg to @ 1250 from a previous 1200+ and muzzle report is quieter again .... YEA WE'RE SAVING AIR !!! while rifles sounding a lot snappier.

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So enlarging the poppet head causes the valve to close a little faster what causes it to refill the Plenum faster? Or is that just depending on the air path from a bottle?

I shot my FX impact m4 with 22 barrel kit today. Very happy so far.

toeheadar said:

I only have LPVOs. I prefer the FFP in them, but it isn't a deal breaker, I can live wiht the SFP reticle. Some match shooters never change magnification so, SFP is fine for them. In a tactical situation, you'll want to lower to the magnification to create a wider FOV. With SFP, you have to dial back before engaging. With FFP you can engage at any magnification.

So it depends on how you use it.

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Depends.

Take the LPVO in SFP or FFP using well designed reticles thick enough for these types of scopes, even moreso with daylight bright illume.
If these are used close up to mid range on 1x or on low power in a PBR scenario then hitting an object of mid size is easily done and done with speed while enjoying the wide FOV. Makes no difference if SFP or FFP here in this space as described because they are affectively at or so near their zero that it doesn't matter.

Basically few are shooting long range on 1x but there are a fair amount of airgunners shooting longer distances on higher mag using these scopes. Here most will be using the highest mag in the SFP scope because that is where mil or moa values are correct. If not then they usually are at mid mag in the above mentioned PBR scenario because they want a tad more magnification and they've chosen to sacrifce a little FOV. It's at the farther distances as far as using holds that are the problem if not on max mag. However one can skip holds and dial the solution.

With FFP, again especially with daylight bright illume, you can use any holds in the reticle on any magnification and at any distance so pick which one that suits the best right then and have at it. I admit that most of the time I'm either at 1x or 10x with my main LPVO even though it's a March DFP shorty but I can choose which magnification without a thought of holds ever being incorrect.

Man 1x doesn't work for me for general shooting because 1x looks like 9/10ths x. However this scope is mounted on my AR and lives on 1x most of the time for CQB if ever needed, or for 3 gun. But when shooting offhand on steel at a precision pace I'll have it at mid mag somewhere. The sensation is way better than using 1x here and more confidence inspiring too.

That's the nice thing about my March, it's crazy versatile. Let's say it's on my air rifle and I picked 3x for a little more magnification and I wanted to shoot at 10Y so I just hold up x amount, then the next shot is PBR so I hold center, then the 3rd shot was 200Y so I just hold up x amount. It still has a decently large FOV, has just enough magnification to make out a small-ish target, I can see the reticle plainly, and engage accurately using holds.

On the AR I shoot at our 1143Y steel but it's on 10x and I've dialed which is what I'd do if I had a SFP 1-10. 10x helps some.

It's a DFP scope so it's the best of both, SFP, FFP, and has daylight bright illume and glad to have it since whatever engagement is needed I'm GTG.
I didn't mean this to be a March advertisement but writing this made me ponder it's attributes.

If I had to choose a FFP or SFP LPVO I'd choose a FFP as long as the reticle was done like it should be. In other words it needs to be seen on 1x but not intrusive on high mag.

40gr take aim .25 at 815. Heard something messing with my gutter. And of course. Nibbling the same spot several others have. Any pest exclusion people know if this can indicate something. Airflow or some type of scent ?

Ha ha, thanks guys. I didn’t realize it would fluoresce under UV light until we went searching for scorpions and I came across some of the splatter paint on my garage floor!

country

boscoebrea said:

Thanks for bringing this old post up ,great info plus I get to see Odoyle again

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Be very careful, YO
Don't say his name 3 times, YO
Or he will reappear ........Y

I am sooooo attached to this gun : )
just looks like fun!

Hateful McNasty said:

Holy R9 batman.. yesterday it was 525$ or so, but this morning. Lol

View attachment 582185

Whats next a grand .. must not need my money anymore. Lol. Fools and there money are soon parted if these sell . I bet they claim tariffs thats just agreed on not set in law yet ..lol. Scamming you

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whatever the market will bare

A wee bit of yard work early, moving hoses and water sprinklers to keep some new grass alive, then took my wife to a nearby community, "cowboy church" for a veteran's luncheon and companionship with some friends. By the time we got home around 1pm it was pushing 98, now 101 and heat index about 106, so just looking at my airguns longingly and wishing. I think temps are supposed to be much more moderate this weekend, very low 90's so here is hoping, but next week, well it is August in Texas by then.

Ezana4CE said:

@Dave107 Can you elaborate on exactly where you placed the Rangecraft chronograph? How far to the side of the target was the chronograph placed from the target? How far forward of the target did you place it?

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I placed it 3 inches off to side and about 5 in front of it. I took the average of 10 shots and used a bc calculator to figure bc. The numbers seemed to line up accurately, as I entered calculated bc into my Kestrel and my dope was on out to 300 on big bore and 150-200 on .25 cal....

Have you slugged your barrel? Need to do that to determine a starting point of what mold size might work best.
Don't have a Texan, but with my Challenger Elite .457 the barrel Lands are .457 and Grooves .461. Mine shoots at .458 or .459 better depending on the type of slugs, more riffling engagement and less blow by. So I use a .460 molds then size them down. Sizing down provides diameter consistency.
Casting is a another rabbit hole to start down. And has a learning curve.
But the Lee molds are inexpensive so worst case you try it, doesn't shoot well, and you're only out $40.

ninersix said:

Borne2fly; So what I understand you to mean is that the (Teflon or nylon new tube) fits over the large Black tube in the BB gun extended 1/16" 1/8" longer than the black tube Correct?
If I understand this will stop the recoil of the bolt shorter than the normal recoil stroke? Have I got it so far?

So what are the physics behind making the RPM slower?
This is what I am not comprehending in this mechanical motion making the RPM slower?

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Yes, that’s correct (your 1st paragraph).

Slowing the rate of fire will come from adding weight to the bolt (lead BBs, pellets, etc). This heavier mass slamming back and forth might hit the stop harder, so I would add a recoil buffer as a precaution to avoid breaking something.

I'd found 3 different 392's shooting 14.3 gr CPHP'S and was trying to figure out how to make a graph, so once I get mine back, I can chrony it and have a visual chart to compare the before and after of the steroid tune.

Well, I was playing with my laptop and Microsoft 365 and managed to do this

View attachment FPS graph.pdf

View attachment FPS graph (2).pdf

Thanks for the help, just seems like I try turning left but poi goes right and turning up poi goes down. I will keep after it trying that 3 shot way.