dp621 said:

Thanks, just took a look at nsa and i see i have some testing to do! Did you find the slugs in .357 fitting well in the rattler or did you find .356 or .358 a better fit?

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The .357 fit nice and snug in the magazine. The .358 are too tight.

Love it! Any pics in regular light?

Man o man. I have not shot a target in 5 days. Totally addicted to shooting flies. This gun was deadly HW97 .25 And it really wasn’t fair to the flies. At 24 yds. I massacred the horse flies . Here’s one the upper shot. You can see stain and a leg sticking out of the pellet. One shot kill. No suffering. But some did. I wounded a few and the would buzz around until you finished them off. Giddyup. Crow

MongooseV8 said:

Lol ok, I have been hunting California ground squirrels for more than 20 years. I have enough time behind a scope, I dont need to prove anything to anyone. It took me years of rifle combos, match time, and pest time to get to that point. FYI its considered rude to call someone a liar without knowing anything about them. I think we have had enough time together, none of which has been enjoyable or productive so I will bow out and ride off into the sunset.

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I think that would be a smart move.

AmericanPitCorsojay said:

45 it said u will get around 12 good shots,357 im getting 3 mag but im shooting 110 and 112 or 125

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I have my 45 Long Strike turned up in power so I get seven to eight consistent shots as it fall off on the reg. I refill with air after 6 shots too, and my .995" long HP-RBT slugs weigh about 335 grains.

thanks...

RTI Arms said:

That screw in front is to adjust the position of the trigger. If you want to make the first stage longer or shorter, you need to screw in or out the trigger connecting rod.

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According to the diagram on the website that is to adjust the trigger travel of first stage which in my mind travel how you lengthen the pull or make the trigger longer or shorter as you stated. There is nothing in the manual about adjusting the connecting rod I only found that after my entire linkage came apart because the little tiny rod that it connects too somehow fell out and it took a magnifying glass and tweezers to get it back in

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My take on glass vs digital scopes is weight, weight, weight. When the digital with batteries is the same or less weight than glass........ Why wouldn't I switch to digital if resolution is same?

Reminds of late 1990s when people wondered future of film vs. digital cameras......

They go hand in hand it's kind of tinkering device I have a couple of Crowns MkII and tinkered way more than I should the main thing is to remember what the original setting was so you can return to factory setting. You can actually increase the reg pressure and leave the hammer spring alone this will cause the hammer to be to weak to depress the valve to release the air and it will decrease your speed in more ways than you want. As far as shot count if you have your own compressor it doesn't matter, even wasting air doesn't matter its personal to each there own. I found that the reg about 110 and then I started with the hammer spring cranking it up and I was able to get 32FPE out of 22 Cal 18grain pellets which were rolling and pellet on pellet at 40 yards. Then I switched the gun to 177 Cal, and it was too much pellet flight was terrible, so I took the gun back apart and cranked the hammer spring back to original and I tinkered with the speed till the accuracy was pellet on pellet. In my opinion the amount of air used, and the speed doesn't matter accuracy is my key and that the only thing that matters.

MongooseV8 said:

Pretty cool, but for context I was making first round hits on moving ground squirrels at 400-600yds back then. How many rounds did it take to walk your hits in on those big steel plates? Not trying to take anything away from your videos, they are certainly impressive.

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“first-round hits on moving ground squirrels at 400–600 yards.” Impressive—if the squirrels were politely holding still and waving orange flags. Let’s pull apart the ballistics vs. bravado.
Let’s say you’re shooting a 6mm slug at ~2950 fps:

• Time of flight to 600 yds: ~0.75 sec
• Squirrel shift in that time: 6–12" sideways
• That’s enough for it to walk clean out of your kill zone mid-shot. Just 3 mph crosswind = ~6–9" lateral drift. Add in mirage and you’re aiming at a blurry blur trying not to breathe too hard.
  

  What It Would Take​

  • Sub-MOA rifle with confirmed dope
  • Spot-on wind call and environmental readings
  • Predictive lead on a squirrel’s movement
  • Perfect execution—all in less than 1 second
    Consistent first-round hits? Doubt it. One-off? Maybe—with luck and a squirrel that forgot how to squirrel.
  
  
  Bottom Line: If it happened, it was one for the books. But for most of us in the real world—it’s a great tale, not a viable tactic.
  
  
  

student said:

curious....is this what you are referring to?

Amazon.com

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No, nylon net. Like I said, doubt it will do much.

The cable ties would be more effective than tie wraps. But one end of the hose needs to be free. Basically just trying to keep the hose from whipping too hard. Absorb a lot of energy at the start.

Ive had a hose fitting let loose at 4000psi. It was exciting.

Franklink said:

Come on down, AZ State match is in a couple weekends.

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Really wish it weren’t so far or i would. 2or 3 k to go to 1 match is a bit much

curious....is this what you are referring to?

I’d buy a Compact 2 but seems they have no interest in building one.

I sold my Compact 1 and have kicked my butt since. Anyone got one in .22 for sale????

I fine tuned my new scope wheel and dope card from 10 yards to 20 yards. I did a ruff in every ten yards last Sunday. But I repaired my leak and it has held 200 bar now for two days. So I just shot every yard from 8-18 to make sure it is OK after reassembly.

I did some standing plinking today with the 48. Even got the trigger stick and took it out to 50 yards. The sun eventually came out and got too hot to shoot.
Peyton

What causes the barrel & bottle to not be more parallel to each other? Never seen it to that degree on a gun before. Just curious.

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I found firewalker on here but don't know if I can pm him yet until my post count gets up. If I shorten the barrel (good info on the choke removal , I didn't think of that) I'm contacting him. Just found an adapter by C88 machining that looks good as well as the bottle off Amazon that someone mentioned. I see now that these parts are round so clocking the adapter may be a non-issue. Really considering this outfit, wish I'd been able to buy the one from the classified here before, that was a deal. Thanks for the info, I'm starting to make sense of it.

If using the washer method, use several on a piece of allthread with spacers between. This will help keep the cut straight.

Good luck with your project.

Dave

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