Normkel said:

I recall when an acquaintance ran one of his Kawaski KX250s low on oil, fried the camshaft and burned the cam bores out of the head. He is partner in a machine operation that repairs helicopter driveline and aircraft turbine components, so I asked him why he didn't repair the head. He related his partner's comment, "You could repair it, but why not get a job at McDonald's? You could earn the money to buy new parts, ad $8/hour, faster than you could repair that head.".

A bit hyperbolic, but it agrees with what I heard you say.

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Funny you say that. I accidentally pulled the throttle cable a bit on a new build drz and oil starved it with a cold rev start and burned the cam journals out of a head. I bought a used head and it dropped a valve at about 9k rpm. Just bought a whole new engine and got a new gearbox too for less than I spent farting around with head 1 and 2. It's all about roi. Being cheap gets expensive.

I should just order the 22 and get it over with.

bchannell said:

Begs the question...how was maintenance done on this unit?

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Silicone oiled on the air side and high pressure lubed on the other side and opened up often. Just used to fill large bottles 2 or 3 times a week and these are toys for low duty airgun use. If you guys are familiar with most of my posts on here I'm not mechanically retarded and could make my own parts if I wanted to. The machine just wasn't worth my time. I could make more money doing other things in the time and effort the cs was worth to me.

IMADMAN said:

Gun leaks, need to remove stock, safety lever in the way. Can't figure how to take it out?

View attachment 593695

View attachment 593696

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Looks like a Beeman safety. If it is put it on safe and drive it out from the other side

Well I sighted in my P35-22 with this scope on it when I got home from church and got a couple small tasks done. It turned into a chore but it was not the scopes fault. I did not get the back ring firmly seated on the pic rail so it was sitting up a little and biased side to side a little. Took me about 20 shots to figure out what was going on. Slow sometimes. With that fixed, it was sighted within about 10 shots.

The clarity, the quality of the glass, is a little better than I expected. It might just be the additional magnification but I think it has better glass than my 8-32 Sentinel that is several years old. It also has yards marked on the parallax knob which the 8-32 lacks. The knobs all turn smoothly and are not overly stiff. My Veyron 6-24 is really stiff. The diopter setting I settled on seems a bit different than my other scopes but it could just be my imagination. It will definitely parallax at 10 yards or even a bit less with my diopter setting. My Arken EPL-4 6-24 will not. The reticle is very fine and is a dot reticle. It is easy to use on 30 yard challenge targets. The dot is smaller than the 10 ring with 40X. I sometimes use the "tick" marks on the reticle for wind adjustments and while the reticle has them they are not as distinct as my other scopes. Still should work. If I am seriously trying for a better score than I already have I am not shooting in a lot of wind, however.

It's a small thing but the flip up covers fit well on the 10-40. The diopter cover did not fit well on the 8-32. I also thought the rings looked fine and they were high enough so I used them. The odds and ends working further adds to the attractive price for me.

I own a 10-40 Athlon Ares which costs about twice this sale price. It is back with Athlon for warranty service right now. So I cannot directly compare but I do not think the Athlon is a lot more clear than this Vector. I am impressed.

I will shoot a target with it soon but it may not be today. Officially the wind speed is 10 mph and while it doesn't look that bad but that is still too much wind for me to do my best. The other issue is boat traffic. The wind should drop right before it gets dark. I may try it. That would also let me know how good it is with light transmission. It was nice and bright when I was sighting it in. I've shot 3 200s with the 8-32 Sentinel and I see no reason I will not get some with this 10-40.

L.Leon said:

I don’t think the Snipers HS can be adjusted without removing it from the stock. The Commander, which is the same gun except with a folding stock allows for HS adjustments. Simply fold the stock and access the HS screw… Either way you’re in for a treat as the Snipers are solid, solid PCPs…

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Thanks.

Do you happen to know if a cylinder can be added to a .22 cal x Sniper XR Magnum? I could swear I saw other BRK models that could have a cylinder vs. bottle added. Air and shot count is not an issue.

Tom

@Mr.Brocock PM sent

I have no use of my fingers. I use a straw for loading magazines. Scope a pellet from the tin with the straw and put it in the mag hole.

I am dialed in now with the 4.52 lubed pellets and today a shot almost a full tin checking the sight in from 10-60 yards.
Yesterday a prepped a new tin. Same lot but different tin. I’ll be at the range real early and test the new tin. I’m interested to see if anything changes. If so I’ll buy eight tins and mix them all together . Lube clean and sort them. Then clean the barrel between big batches .

Just opened this thread and I’ll put my 2 cents in. I went through my phase of “prepping pellets” weighing, sorting by head size, sizing, lubing etc. I even went so far as to change the flare on the skirt and “increase” head size!. I spent alot of precious time trying to get that consistency and precision for any advantage in 25m br. Bottom line… your barrel either shoots that specific pellet or not! Now what I did find is this example, you have different lots of the same pellet say JSB 13.4’s different lots will shoot differently in your barrel “different die’s, different presses, pressures, die wear etc. you get the picture!!!”
Find the lot your barrel likes (which you probably just stumble on to) then try “TRY” to buy as many as you can!.
If you’re looking for precision just remember these are pellets not bullets and you are going to have those random flyers, velocity spreads etc. that you can truly never eliminate.
If you’re shooting under about 900fps lubricants are not going to stop fouling only add more variables to your accuracy!
My 2 cents worth!

lonedave said:

It really depends on the air quality/humidity in your area. You could check them in a sequence, say after one fill, then check after two or three fills, and so on until you see what you feel is enough dirt or moisture to warrant a cleaning or changeout of the filter media. That probably would give you a good baseline.

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Ok so I should definitely check then I’ve probably filled at least 5x or more but I assumed they were lasting a lot longer. Glad I asked. Ty

ill try shooting for that. Thank you all to post comments.

900 fps is more attractive to me as trying to shoot these heavy slugs at recommended speeds of upwards to 970 really puts a dent in your air supply.
I’ll have to look into the Alteros Kings.

I like your tool Rondo. Do you have the file?
If not, i will by Monday afternoon.....

igolfat8 said:

Hi Tom, like you I am used to a wide open view as well. However, once you’re seated at the bench you adapted to shooting through the bunker window. The concrete benches are sturdy and solid which easily adapted to both right and left hand shooters. Everyone I met was very friendly and welcoming to me to their range. The lady on bench 14 was a lefty and shot very well. By the way Happy Birthday Sharon and thanks for the cupcakes!

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Thanks Tim. Yeah, they looked like a good bunch. Best wishes this week at PAC.

My big head/face requires a riser,also got moa adjustment 20moa,and I had medium rings. Hawke 2x7. I need to get pictures. Has wood grip and forearm.

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