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Sam zakharia · Jul 23, 2025

Just a follow up to clarify for any misleading info, the gun is shooting great again, the culprit was the quick connect on the behemoth moderator, I had applied son grease for easy removal and at the same time some purple loctite on the adapter thread because I was having the issue of unthreading the adapter when I try to disconnect the moderator. So today I noticed that the behemoth moderator was coming ever so slightly loose and that was causing the widening of the groups and poI shift. Cleaned up the quick connect. Made sure the moderator was tight after every mag and things are looking good again. Thanks everyone and apologies the misleading info.

ZeroVibe · Jul 23, 2025

I had the opportunity to shoot outside at 50 yards today. Instead of my usual prone position, I shot from a bench. About 12 shots on this particular target

FX Crown MK2 .25
Rangemaster Emperor 33.95

daddypaddy · Jul 23, 2025

i think uniformity plays a role. i used to shoot 17.5gr nsa slugs out of the notos with great accuracy. then i got a bad batch of them there were excess lead on the tips and inside the cavity. these were all over the place. apolo slugs we the only slugs that jammed up my huben k1. they shot okay for looking the way they did but i stopped shooting them after it jammed my gun.

357cal · Jul 23, 2025

greenbeans said:
I think you’re confusing the DEC 600fps rule… My understanding is that an Airgun needs to make at least 600fps to be included in the definition of firearm for purposes of hunt and fishing laws. This is technically what makes them legal for small game. This definition only applies to hunt and fishing laws though, not in general. AFAIK airguns are not firearms for NYS laws so in NY it all rides on County/Town/Village laws. Some time back I checked with a sheriff of a town and was told “nothing in NYS laws preventing you, but stay current on county and town ordinances”. Was a few years back though… Obviously no legal advice, just some guy’s understanding, which may very well be wrong and/or outdated…

You cannot discharge any air gun (regardless of velocity) within 500 feet of a dwelling not owned by you, per Penal Law § 265.35. This is N.Y. STATE LAW.

Ratzy · Jul 23, 2025

OldVet said:
When I used to reload my own ammo for my .308 I learned too much speed can be detrimental. Like blowing up a balloon then let go it flies all over the place. Try something a little slower like 920.

I did, they group poorly at lower FPS. 1000FPS and above they are tight and the velocity is much more consistent. I saw the same thing with the Max 1.

Vana2 · Jul 23, 2025

These are reasonably priced...

Amazon.ca

71S9teulO-L._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg

Powerstroke · Jul 23, 2025

This listing has been renewed

greenbeans · Jul 23, 2025

bchannell said:
I have had/have several fixed scopes. My picks are:
1) Hawke Airmax 10x because it is bright and clear and has illuminated reticle which I need
2)SWFA SS 10x, I like the 12x better, wish I hadn't sold mine, but add a lighted reticle and it would be near the top spot.
3) Vector Veyron 10x, absolutely great scope, If it were lighted, it would surpass the SWFA, as it's slightly clearer.
4) Optisan EVX 10x, great scope, but the parallax on mine only will go up to ~80 yards, but other than that it's a greaat scope, very precise.
5) Athlon Talos 10x, never had one, but would love to try one out.

Thanks, very helpful!! I assume your picks are in order?!

trapdoor2 · Jul 23, 2025

1handwill.gc said:
Keep me up-to-date. I need to get a range to adjust the hammer correctly. What kind of range are you using to adjust your hammer please let me know."

LOL. I'm firmly convinced that the factory hammer spring on the EQ is way too heavy. I have run it from min to max and haven't noticed any significant change. However, I have not experimented with it now that I have solved my velocity issue, but I don't really expect anything. I have been simply testing with the HS backed all the way off. I'm waiting for a new chrony before I do any more testing. Maybe this weekend.

I've bought a lighter spring (at least, I think it should be lighter...the wire dia. is smaller, and it is stainless steel which is less stiff, so it should be lighter) from McMaster-Carr...but I haven't tried it out yet. What I want is to be able to adjust thru a range of poppet valve opening. When the spring is too heavy you overwhelm the poppet valve at minimum tension. Adding tension doesn't really do much other than perhaps slam in a bit of dwell time.

I tried to find a source for different springs...McMaster-Carr had only one of the correct size. I have made my own springs in the past...but I'd rather just find a source that has a selection.

greenbeans · Jul 23, 2025

dunz said:
@greenbeans,

I imported across the pond from balistas. My total cost was $2509.20 (extra barrel and other accessories) which includes $105 for shipping. I paid another $348.12 upon delivery to UPS which is about 14.5%. The only US dealer I could find is showing a list price of $2250.00 (pre-order) which is about 20% more than what I paid for the gun alone. Sales tax where I live is 7%.

Thanks!! So probably 10% tariff and rest ups fees…

dunz · Jul 23, 2025

@rdtricks,

Epic got back to me with the following, I had also asked them to confirm if leaving things a little loose was okay and normal:

If you want to get access with the wooden stock fitted, you can degas the rifle and once there is no air inside, you can freely move and rotate with the air tank, plenum and regulator housing part. So you can point it up a little bit to have access for the adjustment.

It does not matter if they are loose a little bit, there is really long thread on all this parts. We use it in this way in all our rifles and from 3 000 rifles sold there was nothing wrong with it.

It is better to leave the same space from both side, not to loosen just from the one side of course.

It is the same with our bottle version, bottle is completely loose while there is no air in.

Louie4321 · Jul 23, 2025

This listing has been renewed

Brian T · Jul 23, 2025

I got a response and it was a bit vague. Their response simply said they will be happy to send a replacement part.

Kinda discouraging it broke. Only shot 100ish rounds through it. When I got this i tried adjusting the trigger and didn't seem to respond to adjustments, likely due to it being broken?

The funny thing is it still appears to work without the broken piece, I suspect the other portion of the part will dislodge itself and wont work eventually.

OldVet · Jul 23, 2025

When I used to reload my own ammo for my .308 I learned too much speed can be detrimental. Like blowing up a balloon then let go it flies all over the place. Try something a little slower like 920.

dunz · Jul 23, 2025

@greenbeans,

I imported across the pond from balistas. My total cost was $2509.20 (extra barrel and other accessories) which includes $105 for shipping. I paid another $348.12 upon delivery to UPS which is about 14.5%. The only US dealer I could find is showing a list price of $2250.00 (pre-order) which is about 20% more than what I paid for the gun alone. Sales tax where I live is 7%.

beerthief · Jul 23, 2025

got new metric screws to replace one messed up threads on one so replacing all in a Diana zero mount .

New screws = 25 minute drive to hardware and 25 minute back home , up north at the old house this would have taken about 12 minutes walking . love to be out here in southern Kentucky ,would not trade for anything ( except maybe an indoor 50 yard range .)

bivy53 · Jul 23, 2025

Just keep in mind that Diablo shaped pellets generally like to shoot between 800 to 925 fps. No matter the brand it seems. That’s why you really need a chronograph. Hatsans, at least mine, tend to shoot slugs well. You can crank up the speed with these. Seems that a lot of air gunners talk down about Crosman pellets, but all of my guns, and I have more than just the Hatsans, shoot the premiers really well. You just have to tune for them. One thing that will help with the trigger is proper tuning. More spring tension=heavier trigger. Lower the hammer spring tension and raise the reg pressure until you find that sweet spot between speed, trigger pull, and air efficiency. I get a lot of pleasure getting budget guns shooting like high end ones.

3Crows · Jul 23, 2025

JW. said:
So no challenges for you? LOL

"Hunters" are the only unethical thing in the equation, an airgun is just an airgun, it can't do anything on its own... Don't push BS that a springer is "unethical", the meat popsicle selecting the rifle, prey and pulling the trigger is the only issue when it comes to hunting ethics.

When the top springer shooters shoot pcp in competition, the pcp shooters better be on their A game or they will get crushed. Train accordingly or get destroyed.

Springers are not ethical for the animals I hunt and pest. I clearly said "sizable" animals. A springer cannot have the power or range of a strong pcp in .25 or larger caliber. Springers are too large, too heavy, too long, lacking in power and the few .25 caliber springers I have seen including owning one was like getting slapped in the face with a hammer everytime I pulled the trigger. When, which will never be, there is a sub 40 inches, sub 8 pounds fully equipped springer that can reliably and accurately drive a .25 caliber pellet at 900 fps without the obnoxious scope destroying reverse recoil I will give them another look see. Something like the TX200 under lever with a titanium tube and barrel (lined) to keep bare weight below 7 pounds, 39 inches long and running a .25 pellet at least 800 fps. And no reverse recoil. I will have a look see.

Avator · Jul 23, 2025

cosmic said:
I clean the spout and the valve rod... Then lap them together with a drill..

I plugged the pour hole on mine with a nail and dip pour with a ladle. I removed the pour handle.

Stretchearstrong · Jul 23, 2025

NAProf said:
Hi,
It appears that you have the Spring Carrier as far forward as it will go. That means you are compressing the spring the maximum amount. This certainly limits your range of adjustments using the features of the rifle. It is likely that you are getting close to not being able to cock the rifle because the head of the hammer is not being allowed to move far enough back to engage the sear. The figure below, showing the Quick Tuning System (QTS) for an FX King (Dynamic/Panthera) is nearly identical to that of the Impact. The trigger set is different, but the principles are the same.

By moving the Micro adjuster you are moving the Spring Carrier, which controls the position of the rear end of the hammer spring when the rifle is cocked. The front end of the soring is in the hammer and its position will always be the same when cocked because of the trigger sear. The Power wheel also limits the back position of the hammer spring by limiting the rearward position of the spring carrier.

View attachment 580474

I am attaching a write up I started to explain how the FX QTS works. It was written for the Dynamic family but the same principles apply. I have never gotton around to finishing the writeup because I sold my King and moved to the DRS. Hopefully the limited amount I did write will help explain the system to you..

Cheers,
Greg

View attachment 580485

I really appreciate you chiming in. I feel like i have a decent understanding on what the micro adjuster does. Even more so after reading your write up.

The question I have now is where along the bar is the nominal position for the barrel adjuster itself to be be tightened/set to. Im assuming the set screw can be loosened to make it impossible to change the setting once youve got your rifle dialed to your liking. Same as the valve adjuster can be locked into position via set screws. Ive loosened the micro barrel and tried several positions but I'm not seeing any change in its functionality or noticing any limit to its travel.

I dont intend to shoot my rifle with the micro set this way. Initially I was wondering if it was an issue or if the wheel was set incorrectly ALLOWING it to travel beyond 5.

1handwill.gc · Jul 23, 2025

trapdoor2 said:
Finally, got some range time this morning. Of course, not everything went as planned...

The EQ now shoots to spec (breathes sigh of relief). I got to fiddle around at 50yds with the 33.9g Dead Center pellets, which appear to like 820fps. Also tested some AEA 30g and 49g slugs, and JSB Knockout 33.24g slugs.

The 30g AEA slugs were all over the place. I suspect I was pushing them too hard at 900fps. I have shotguns that pattern tighter. The AEA 49g Long Range Master slugs did ok...but will need a tuning session of their own. They seemed to like running around 870fps.

Bright spot was the 33.24 JSB Knockouts. Without really trying for precision shooting on my part, they easily shot to 1MOA at ~850fps. Nice to quickly find something the rifle likes!

OTOH, my Natechrony had some issues. I kept getting "alignment errors" and would get spurious data like 300-2000 fps shots (no change on target). There were ants crawling on the bench...on my scope, etc. Might have had a chrony intruder!

Athlon radar chrono should be here Friday. That will allow me to test with the moderator in place.

Keep me up-to-date. I need to get a range to adjust the hammer correctly. What kind of range are you using to adjust your hammer please let me know."

Avator · Jul 23, 2025

I took a 4" gong and drilled a 3/8" hole in the center.. (that was tough drilling). I mounted it to a board and hung a metal junction cover plate behind it. I made legs to stand the board. It makes one sound when the pellet hits the gong and a nice ring when the pellet passes through the hole to hit the cover plate.
I love targets that I don't have to keep changing.

Jack.K · Jul 23, 2025

Looking for some technical insight on the Element Helix 1500 rangefinder.

I recently became interested in integrating a ballistic solution with a laser rangefinder. Currently, I’m using a Sig Kilo rangefinder paired with Strelok Pro, but I decided to test the Element Helix 1500 with the Element Ballistics app to streamline the setup.

During testing, I noticed the Helix 1500 was returning inaccurate readings at shorter distances. I compared it to known distances (measured with a tape) and cross-checked it against my Sig Kilo, which has consistently provided accurate results.

Here are a few discrepancies I found with the Helix 1500 at close range

7 yards measured → Helix reads 5 yards
10 yards measured → Helix reads 8 yards
25 yards measured → Helix reads 23 yards
30 yards measured → Helix reads 29 yards

For longer distances, the Helix seemed accurate and aligned with the Sig Kilo:

40 yards → 40 yards
50 yards → 50 yards
70 yards → 70 yards
100 yards → 101 yards
120 yards → 120 yards
225 yards → 225 yards
260 yards → 260 yards
336 yards → 336 yards
395 yards → 395 yards
548 yards → 548 yards

Given the unit is rated for 5 to 1500 meters, I’m unsure whether this is a calibration issue or a software glitch. The short-range inaccuracies are concerning, especially when my Sig Kilo remains spot on.

Anyone else using the Element Helix 1500? I’d appreciate if others could share their readings at distances under 30 yards to help determine whether I might have a miscalibrated unit.

*edit to fix font color

cosmic · Jul 23, 2025

I clean the spout and the valve rod... Then lap them together with a drill..

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