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GX is now the leader of budget compressors ?

I have the Xisico version of the GX-CS3e and a true Yong Heng (QB-01). I use the Xisico for filling guns to 3600 psi and lower and the YH for anything higher or to top off my 30 minute scba to 3500 for tethering. I don't tether often.
I also have a few other compressors that I don't use or in need of some level of repairs.
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''Member Classifieds" section suggestion.... what is the group thought?

So when visiting the classified section I notice that around 80% of the ads are for accesories and not an actual airgun, even though an airgun name is in the ad. Seems cluttered and like I am sifting through a thrift store for an actual thing.

Would it make more sense to have two classified categories? One for actual guns and one for actual accessories? It seems like the big ticket items are being pushed out of view fairly quickly for the same accessory items repeatedly being listed.

Imagine all the airguns in one list... that would be magnificent! I would much rather walk down the accesory asile for accessories and the airgun asile for airguns rather than sift through one big pile.

What say you?

HW/Weihrauch  MK1 HW77 Front Sight Assembly Question

Usually there is a small dovetail that is milled onnthe barrel that the front assembly locks onto. Some also had spline pressed fit with it. They just slide on tightly.
The top block is a cast block and can wear from use or hairline crack or the dovetail can get loose
inspect it closely in the gaps for any cracks.
Tap it off with a block of wood if it’s moving already. More likely it will need to be retainer applied innthe dovetails and front area. Loc Tite. 680 works best.

As for grubb Screws. The top holes are for mounting the sight on top.

I have pics I can get later

GX is now the leader of budget compressors ?

For the purpose of transport to the range and filling one's own guns, would you prefer the CS-4 over the CS-3? I have a 3 and a Nuong (Tuxing clone) as backup. I had a New Warrior (Yong Heng compressor in a more advanced arrangement), but much to heavy to make for convenient transport. I'm trying to decide on whether to change compressors.

For comparison: left to right, New Warrior, CS-3, Nuong.

View attachment 579684
If I were just filling guns only I would go with the cs3. Just about any part is readily available to rebuild/replace. Not really so on the cs4. Cs3 is super easy to work on as well.

Skout  Everything Skout EVO and Epoch

Not sure if I trust this, but I downloaded a random phone DB app and without a pellet I got 77db and with I got 79 DB this is a sub 12 Epoch and the phone was 4" from the end of the barrel/shroud.

Just tried another app which I think is more realistic, and got 96db with no pellet and 99db with!

So I think the app is the deciding factor, Unless you have a properly calibrated DB meter you're just going to get a rough idea, that's all.
You are certainly right about the apps.
I don't have an expensive dB meter ... I think I got it for 50 bucks or something.
But you can certainly do an apples to apples comparison with one.
Now as far as your sub 12 epoch ,now that should be way quieter than the 47 odd fpe that my .22 is pushing.
Also I see your point on the metallic clang being the hammer mechanism ( for lack of a better term) and it probably is true in your case with a sub 12 gun, however I don't think that is the case in mine.
I will try and make videos and sound recordings later in the week, in an effort to better portray what I am hearing.
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LPVO??

i have a Leupold 1.5-4x that i put on my gk1 in carbine mode. It is super clear, super light, and perfect for the 10-50 yards i use that gun. It is parallax to 100yards, but its so low a mag it doens't affect it much. My understanding is that its adjustable somehow with the objective lens, but its been a non-issue for me so i haven't bothered.
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Head shot thread

IMG_6985.jpeg


This is by far my most gruesome kill with an air rifle… got him in the back of the head from 30-35y… I was on a little hill slightly above him so the slug when in and obviously the expansion was excellent on the way out…

Barra 250z .25cal
32gr franco slug at 980fps

Niksan  I'm "learning" on the elf.

I understand my shot curve, and the pressure window I need to maintain. But as is always the case I want more! So the question is....Is there anyway to add a regulator to an unregulated tube type PCP?
Are you shooting from a bench? If so you can run a tank tethered with an inline regulator.

HW/Weihrauch  Stainless HW guys

Stainless LOOK , i an reasonably confident both coatings will hold up equally well although i have no idea what the stainless look coating is ?
Electroless nickel plating. You can actually do it at home. I saw a post on a UK forum where a guy did exactly that on an old beater that he restored. It came out well.

Resources  Creating Dope - my stubborn way

Time to share my latest new to me trick
I’m totally stoked about my new method for creating solid dope.

First I zero my gun at rhe middle point of pellets trajectory - say at 30 yards
then
I draw 2 thin horizontal lines .20 apart on a stiff stock paperboard And place the target at EXACTLY 10 yards
I aim at center point between the lines and shoot
I compare my point of impact to my point of aim and determine my aproximate holdover
But
I adjust my POI using clicks until all my shots fall perfectly between the two horizontal lines
I then adjust the ballistics APP scope height until the point of impact matches the clicks necessary to fall perfectly between the two lines.
next I shoot only using clicks at a variety of small 1/4” to 1/2” targets at known distances from 9 yards out to 60 yards
I also set out NR/ BR 50 cards taped to blocks of putty to evaluate if any odd trend or drift is occurring
this new Way of creating dope by validating with clicks is way more accurate than just visually using a holdover value.
I’ve redone dope on four different HFT rigs and it’s like they are different 💪 guns.
No worries The Thomas got plenty of attention afterwards😎
That's a lot.

RTI  RTI Transfer Port Screw - What Material?

RTI sent me some of the M7 grub screws, they were steel.

Easy to drill out, file, manipulate etc.
Got a selection of transfer ports from 1.6 mm to 3 mm.

I also have a brass M7 TP, delivered will my P1. So RTI use brass and steel.

Interesting testing, 😉. Lately I'm mainly using a 3 mm TP. .177 slugs.
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