Biggestnoob said:

Hello all, this is my first post here so if I’m posting in the wrong section please let me know. I am a total beginner when it comes to refilling air tanks and was hoping that someone might be able to give from step-by-step advice on refilling a tank at home using a compressor. I have filled my rifles both ways before but haven’t had to refill the tank yet and am wondering if it’s possible to do it at home. The tank in question is the 9.0L Airmarksman tank with the upgraded dual gauge valve (from Utah Airguns) and the compressor I would be using would be the original model GX CS-4. I know the tank will take several sessions to fill if it’s possible, but I am unsure of the exact sequence of steps. Also, what if any necessary precautions and safety issues to follow. If anyone is willing to go over the proper procedures step-by-step it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and happy shooting to anyone that reads this.

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Welcome to the best A G N ! I know nothing about tanks but others will answer your question and there is always You Tube

Only time I've had clipping was with the printed moderators. After little more looking ... general consensus was a threaded barrel that takes the mod directly. So far I have not had any issues with a reputable made moderator on a shrouded barrel with the threaded adapter.

I put this together to check tanks and compressors. About 22 bucks for gauge and male foster off Amazon.

abstruse said:

I've experienced clipping with two rifles/suppressors. Both suppressors are DannyFl, one rifle is AV bullpup and one is Hatsan Bullboss, both .25 cal. It seems that it doesn't take many bumps on the suppressors to cause them to clip.

Is this typical?

If so, why? Is the suppressor construction that flimsy? Is their attachment just too weak?

Of course, one could keep boring them out until they no longer clipped, but at the cost of more noise.

Your thoughts and experiences? Thanx.

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It's not the moderator, it's your guns. I was waiting to see hatsan

Also what gun, power level, and moderator for my own curiosity?

Brian T said:

I made a bushing. The 5mm dimension seems correct. I made this in brass quick, is this what im trying to achieve? I believe I will omit that spring?

View attachment 580696

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Spring is not needed.

Like many things in our World these days.. especially food items.. same stuff just a different label.

Dstrac said:

A machine shop with a skilled tig welder and lathe operator could possibility repair it. Im a welder ive done hundreds of repairs on non replaceable parts. Shaft journals, bearing surfaces, bores etc.

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It's doable, but at what cost? Plus getting a torch in there will be a nightmarr, unless a slot is killed and filled from the outside and re machined. Somebody mentioned a lower being 375 bucks.

Look in the manual for the GX to start. But the CS4 can run continuos for at least 5 hours to fill a 6.8L tank.

There are numerous YouTube videos on the GX pumps.

If you have a chrony wouldn’t hurt to confirm velocities on a shot strongbox like 10.

If you’re shootong at 100 consistently may want to try the Altaros Kikgs

Mike

I've got a U2 600 .22 that shoots 25.5 slugs at 990-1000fps. It gets easily 70+ shots per fill (300bar). I use it for pesting like you. I this its quiter then the RTI with the shroud mod. Its not really that light. Its been really reliable.
You can see it here:

The RTI is similar to the uragan, but it has an external regulator. Its easier to tune then the uragan, that has to be degassed and dissasembled to reach the regulator. I dont know how reliable the RTI is, but it has a good rep around here. My Guess is that the uragan is quiter but the RTI might be lighter.

You'll be great with either. Its more a matter of estetics and price really...

I got both (U3 .22 600mm and P3 .25), and I love both. The U3 is set to shoot 23gr slugs at 955, I think I set the reg at around 125?! Shot count somewhere around 100ish from 300b I think but never took a proper count. The P3 is currently set to “low power” and shooting 25gr at 900 (reg at 93b), feels like endless shots but is a .25 anyway. Both are easily more accurate than I am. I think with your goals as to power and shot count, you have to go with the 700mm U3. That would make it a long gun though, so take that into account. Other than that the P3 is easier to adjust since everything is external. Ergonomics I like the U3 better. You can’t go wrong with either though and the P3 will run you a little less $…

@sb327 It is just deep scratches from the valve. I wouldnt consider fixing it if I thought it was cracked. I inspected the orings and they seemed good and i sent pictures to an experienced airgun enthusiast that i trust and he said he thought the orings looked good so figured must be the epoxy.

I've never resealed an airgun before. This was going to be a 1st for me then I found that issue when I opened her up. At that point I tried to find someone that was an experienced machinist that would be willing to go over it for me, but I only found a couple people willing to help with suggestions on how to fix. Im not qualified to fix this type of thing and I dont want to push my luck.

I was fortunate enough to find someone to help me through the disassembly process. Im not even sure I could reassemble it at this point. I took it apart a year ago. I need someone that is skilled enough to go through it and determine if its the orings or the gouging on the walls thats the problem. You can see it was deep enough to remove the anodizing on the wall.

I tried my best to get it to hold air to find the leak but I dont know what all is needed to make that happen. I read bumping the rear of the stock on the ground and I also read to cock it and cover the barrel. I tried those things and when it didnt work I tore it apart.

I would like to find someone that know airguns and is willing to fix and tune the slayer if possible. I dont want to have to be pulling it apart again if I can avoid it. I also heard this platform is hard to get together without damaging orings so I was going to leave it to the pros.

jasperjet said:

nexus has been upgraded to gen II now. I just bought a 6-24 x 50 zeiss like jeffppc..eurooptics has as new ones for sale at substantial savings. email zeiss and find out which ones have 10 yard parallax. if you want an element optic ...dvor has their top of the line almost tier one theos for sale for 33 percent off . It will go back to normal price in 5 days.. you can go to opticsthoughts and see what the dark lord of optics says are good scopes in each price range, its under the dloo list.

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I bought the 6-24 Zeiss Conquest V4 from Optics Planet and ordered another in 4-16 from Europtics. Once you go with clear glass you become addicted. Keep in mind that many of these retailers will price match and beat the price you found by an additional 10%, so don't forget to haggle.

6gun said:

I think every brand compressor has had the same card now that I think of it cordless milwaukee/rigid/ryobi come from the same chinese factory too. I'm willing to bet all my auto parts come from the same. Place too.

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Having been in a couple Chinese ODM plants those style qc cards are there in the millions. I've only dealt with the Electronics ODM and not the mechanical ODM. In plants that dont barcode everything that appears to be the style for non-specific type final qc card. Verbiage may differ but 3x5 cards (whatever the metric sizes is) are used.

Otherwise, for example, Foxconn EMS plants everything is scanned by barcode. As the bare fab enters the assembly line a barcode label is attached. Then it is tracked the whole way through assembly, test, final assembly.

Nealgl1985 said:

@Texas Iggie when I talked to Tom he said he was going to be making some lowers. He said he had valves in stock but i said id wait on the lower. I waited about 6 months and messaged again and he never responded. So I messaged him again and he never responded.

It would be nice to get a lower made but I dont want to drop too much money into a gun that doesn't have available parts. I'll message tom again just to be sure but I wont hold my breath.

The slayer is a older model and im assuming they will be discontinuing support since their website no longer has a slayer section. The slayer was awesome when it was working though. It's a shame he quit making them.

@6gun thanks for the suggestion, but i dont want to attempt to fix it myself.

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Unfortunately, this does not seem to have anything to do with the slayer being an older model but with Tom’s business acumen… exact same experience here with parts for an Evol… got lucky and could grab a new barrel when they dropped through the homepage, no luck on a new reg through AoA or through messaging Tom (zero response to multiple messages) for months and months, eventually got a huma. It’s a great gun (again) now but would never again buy an AAA. Parts are unobtainable and support is non-existent.

Croxton63 said:

Looks like 4.51 to me. What innards do you have in the 95? Good shooting!

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It's a Vortek full power PG2 kit from 2016 and Vortek piston seal. Its springs and seals have been replaced a time or two. It's probably got >30k shots on it. Depending on pellet it makes between 14 and 15fpe. And very nicely I might add. So much for needing to down power to get good accuracy.

More pellets to try in the modified HM1000x.

Bladebum said:

Hopefully I can get some input from guys who have owned either of these, but opinions without are cool too. I am interested in getting a solid, reliable and accurate high power slug shooter in 22 cal with these two being my top choices. I want to shoot 30+ grain slugs in the mid to high 900s fps, with a respectable shot count (50+ shots would be nice) . It will not be a bench gun whatsoever, it will be a pest hunting gun and so durability as well as a solid barrel that won't lose poi with a little banging around are a must. These two choices seem to fit the bill the closest, with a top contender behind them being the Krait X . What are your guys thoughts on these platforms for my use? Are my expectations reachable from these guns? If you have owned either itd be great to hear your pros and cons.

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Not sure about the U3, I had the U2 .22 the 700mm came to me shooting 25gr around 940fps and I got around 130 shots per fill. The U3 has a more efficient regulator and valve cycle , when I set my U2 to push 30gr at 940fps I was still getting like 70+ shots I'm sure the U3 would get more shots and can push that power at less reg pressure.

I think I would try a reseal. Apparently these are quite fussy to get resealed without damaging orings. Also, they are hard to air up due to the balanced valve. This info is just from reading about them here on the forum, no personal knowledge.

Can you confirm that there is no fracture or crack? Just wondering since it was previously mentioned.

Dave

How far are the groups from im assuming is what he is asking.

@sb327 you are correct. I was told the damage was done from dry firing the slayer. The valve scratched the surface of the lower and im assuming where the arrows are pointing is stopping it from sealing. I could not get it to air up after it went empty so I dont know 100% where it was leaking from. The previous owner stated he changed all the orings and they all looked to be in good condition from what I could see when I disassembled it.