Stevoo brings up a great point: springer recoil has two parts: first, an "equal and opposite" reaction to the piston's motion; then a jolt in the reverse direct when the piston comes to a stop.

With a "backwards" piston (Hurricane, Tempest, P1 / HW 45, etc.), the first part shoves the gun forward. Your grip hand is underneath, and acts as a fulcrum, rocking the muzzle down. The second part shoves the gun rearward, popping the muzzle back up.

This all happens so fast, you just notice the second bit when you fire the gun...but the pellet actually exits while the muzzle is shoved downward.

MDriskill said:

Any Diana rifle made since the 1970's should have the date of manufacture, in "MM YY" format, in tiny digits on the left rear receiver.

This is a model 27S made in August 1978.
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Thanks very helpful.

I can’t get it above 4000. It says 4600 when I fill it. My compressor is a cs4- i. Did it both ways, used the compressor stop and ran it past 4500 hit the switch. Did not work, checked it and it was 4000. Thanks for the reply.

This listing has been renewed

From both a bench and a tripod if I'm in the field. You have a great idea though. I hadn't thought about a regulated tank setup. And MAN talk about having a huge plenum with that setup!

Another favorite of mine is the vintage Webley Mk 3, a classic tap-loading underlever.

Webley was a VERY conservative bunch in those days - no doubt making a "pretty" rifle was about the last thing on their mind! It has no tricky lines or fancy features - not even checkering or a buttplate on this target model! - but there's something about its subtle stock curves, beautifully finished old-skool steel construction, and mostly exposed action that gives it a a elegant, sinewy, athletic sort of look.

It handles beautifully too - a fun rifle to shoot.


I also don't mind the awesome Parker-Hale sights, lol...

lonedave said:

I tried out my new NOE 357-136HP mold today. Since everything was in use, I cast some Lyman .50 Plains Bullets too. I’m hoping these NOE’s will work as well as I think they will in my standard AEA Challenger. I got them washed and still need to lube and size them, but I’ll probably get out in a couple days to try them out.View attachment 579856View attachment 579857

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A little bit of tin, and a little more heat in the mold along with some good sooting and I bet you have picture perfect more stable sizing projectiles. I'm happy to see a fellow boolet pourer.

MrP said:

In my opinion the last thing we need on a discussion form is a bunch of people crowning themselves as gatekeepers about what questions are and are not appropriate. People come to forums to seek help from people who know more than them, the search function is sometimes frustrating and produces overwhelming results especially for novices. If you don't like seeing people ask questions, just don't log on to a discussion forum.

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Your point is well taken, but we are talking about etiquette, not the questions themselves. It is down right rude to ask a question about a product well described in commercial adds easily found by a simple search. It is rude, lazy and imposing on the good will of the readership. Of course this forum is a wealth of knowledge of experienced shooters and should be respected as such. I have no problem answering legitimate questions not easily answered by commercial adds.

Yeah, I couldnt believe the price myself. But I have mine and have been extremely happy to get one at such a fantastic price. The app is the same regardless of edition. The website mentions it works up to 1300 FPS, while the FX packaging says 1099FPS, so it would probably not work with powderburners unless you were using subsonic ammo, but for air rifles and archery it is an incredible deal.
You need to use AAA batteries with it versus the V2 that has rechargeable, but that is a small price to pay. Utah is the only place selling them at this price because they are moving, so dont procrastinate if you are in the market.
FYI it does not say archery on it anywhere, the only difference seems to be with the mount being geared toward archery, which is nothing a Velcro strip wont fix. A 3D printed bracket will work too and plans are available online.

Frank in Fairfield said:

I don’t use dope, drop data.
I used to.
I will be 80 in two weeks.
I shoot FT to have something to do for when I am not shooting pool.
There are a handful of shooters who will win every match, whether it is a Gran Prix or a club match.
You can’t score higher than them, if that is your reason.
They have the time and resources to train for those achievements.
I do not.
I do enjoy shooting.
I hunted for 60 years and shot game from 10 yards to 200 yards all without drop data.
I focus, aim and shoot.
If the first shot is close, I adjust my hold and shoot again.
I take four shots in less than one minute.
I do not take 6-7 minutes and hold up the shooters behind me.
Just my $.02

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All good..... but in the grand scheme of this thread, the idea is to create VERY accurate (gnats ass) dope that lets you know your equipment is spot on so that when you miss, you know YOU missed and not the equipment. At 68, I'm heading your way quickly. I don't care who wins or looses a match... i only care about besting myself, challenging myself, and having a good time with good people while i am doing it.

Nice!

Did you find this newly improved variation of slug to have even higher BC?

Ada said:

You are certainly right about the apps.
I don't have an expensive dB meter ... I think I got it for 50 bucks or something.
But you can certainly do an apples to apples comparison with one.
Now as far as your sub 12 epoch ,now that should be way quieter than the 47 odd fpe that my .22 is pushing.
Also I see your point on the metallic clang being the hammer mechanism ( for lack of a better term) and it probably is true in your case with a sub 12 gun, however I don't think that is the case in mine.
I will try and make videos and sound recordings later in the week, in an effort to better portray what I am hearing.

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It's a difficult one as you would think the used pressures would be vastly different between sub 12 and high power, but surprisingly they are not, going by other peoples setups even 30cal at 900fps are not using very different pressures, so in theory the noise difference going by that should also not be big as almost the same amount of air is being moved so it may just be the calibre that make a difference in sound output.

humbled.ag said:

That's a lot.

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yep - but it WORKS!

Gerry52 said:

Check with Utah Airguns. They should know.

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Thanks! I'll do that.

Ezana4CE said:

To calculate BC you/the software needs a “near“ and “far” velocity reading. How far out does the Athlon read the “far” reading?

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I don't believe the Athlon calculates BC. That is built in to the pellet profiles that come with the app.

I am thinking to buy a Hurricane that has just been owned , nothing ever done to it , just to see the difference in the one i have . Also been looking for another Tempest but the prices are way out of line .
Maybe one of the shooters i Nashville Tn has one ? I am in Nashville quite often .

No.

I'm always looking for the most innovative, modern, and latest products that align with my objectives.

When I bought my Thomas HPX four years ago it was amazing then as the years went by Mike N created a bunch of notable improvements that made an even more solid and precise gun. I want one and don't need two so might sell the older version.

It's kind of been that way with some other guns too. Just a few days ago I was shooting another really cool pcp and was thinking of how there are aspects that could be improved with more modern design features so I'm gonna try another pcp to see the differences so I might end up selling the older one as well.

.20calguy said:

This was my primary target at 10 yards with my pistols, and you could easily miss half of your shots with no fault of your own shooting the Tempest. My other pistols missed when you missed. That bothered me enough to part with it.View attachment 579570

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HEHEHEHEHEHEHE exactly !