Man , I think I scored a beauty. Looks like keeper. A Webley Hurricane .22 cal. Such a cool looking gun. Honestly don’t know much about them. But love the design.Amazing the condition. I will shoot it, not a lot, but I will. Shot a few rounds. Not bad accuracy. Just about ripped out an inch of skin off leg jacking it. Technique is imperative. Crow

I was watching some Youtube hunting videos and came across this video. Apparently, Western Airguns released a bottled version (Larger reg too!) of the Mordax. I'm intrigued by it. Anyone have this gun in .22 and if it's able to produce more power than the aluminum tube version? I am also wondering if this is a better buy than the Edgun Leshiy 2.

LNIB Hawke scope with rings. 130.00 OBO including shipping to CONUS
Call/text Ron 714-296-7489

Ordered from Huma, got from Huma, very impressive weight and size.
Unfortunately thats all Ive got. The app doesn’t open in the USA.
Hopefully not going right back to Huma.

Ok, finally got down to working on the trigger this afternoon for the EQ.

Initially, without doing anything but using the four adjustment means, I was able to get it to 2lbs and small change. As I've mentioned, I come from Service Rifle competition and minimum there is 4.5lbs. 2lbs feels really light to me. However, I didn't like the long 1st stage and there was a bit of bumpy creep just before the break.

I ran about 500rds thru it @ 2lbs before nearly total disassembly (in another thread). The regulator is creepy (down...which is different from everybody else's comments) and I wanted to address the trigger.

I've gone on record here stating that factory triggers nearly always need work...and that the roughness in the EQ trigger is just a by-product of their production line. Buy a $$$$$ rifle and you're probably still going to have your favorite smith work on the trigger. All my competition rifles and pistols have had that done...some by myself. Makes a big difference.

Got the sear out, no problem. Here's what the sear surface looked like. Typical transverse machine marks across the face. Lumpy-Bumpy!


Here's what it looks like now, after very careful stoning (I think my finest Shapton stone is 5000 grit). Only the barest minimum of the left edge is the actual sear surface when engaged. I looked at the adjacent surface on the hammer bar and it actually looked OK. When I start working on the hammer and spring, I may touch that surface up...maybe.



And here's the result:



Way too light for me...but very crisp! I bumped it up to 1lb 4oz, just because I had trouble feeling the 2nd stage wall at 15.5oz. The trigger return spring (1st stage) runs around 9oz, depending on the length of pull you set. Shorter pull, lighter 1st stage, etc.

Here's a picture of my modification to the trigger bar and return spring.



The bar is simply a piece of 1/8" rod with some rolled grooves on either end and then three grooves where the trigger return spring has an e-clip (they're not threads but they look like threads). Each end has a block with a grub screw and the bar can be variously positioned to adjust the trigger position. The three tiny grooves and the e-clip allow a tiny amount of adjustment to the 1st stage weight. I musta dropped that *&$^#(@!! e-clip about a half-dozen times, fished it out from under the bench with a magnet, etc., etc. Being an old aero-modeller, I knew I could fix that with a 1/8" stop-collar. You can get them from Du-Bro, they're sold as "wheel collars". It takes a 0.050" allen wrench.

The trigger has to have a return spring to push the trigger forward when the sear is reset during cocking. The damned thing looks like it came out of a ballpoint pen...and I'm sure one could find lighter, heavier, shorter and longer versions if you really wanted to play with it.

My procedure was to fix the trigger bar into the rear block with about 4 grooves showing forward of the block. Then I adjusted the forward end of the bar into the trigger until I got pretty close to the 1st stage length I wanted. At least, that was my starting point. Then, I adjusted the trigger return spring to as light as it would go. Dry fire the rifle (safety first!). Adjust one end, adjust the spring if needed, dry fire. Lather, rinse and repeat.

This procedure is really fiddly. There's no screw adjustments, you have to loosen the grub screw, shift the rod a tiny amount, retighten, check...try again. Eventually, it comes together as you learn what does what. If I get really frustrated with it, I think I'll get a few pieces of 1/8" ID brass tubing and use a pair of stop collars on the aft end of the rod. The tubing would space the adjustment collars away from the sear housing (easier to get to). When you have two collars, you can use a feeler gauge to move them around, make tiny adjustments, etc.

More than one way to skin a cat. There are other ways to get it done.

This month’s drop is short, powerful, and packed with rare gear.

Here’s what just hit the site:

• Dedal 5-20x56 (x2) – The king of low-light long-range.
• Dedal 3-12x50 (x2) – Elite glass for tight, tactical setups.
• EDgun Leshiy 2 “Night Goblin” – Custom 250mm Leshiy 2 builds (.22 & .25 cal option) paired with the ultra compact Guide TE211M Thermal Scope and housed in an exclusive padded backpack.

This is full predator mode. Designed for nighttime missions. Only two units available.

Don’t sleep on this drop… because the Night Goblin doesn’t either.

Show the Drop Now, quantities are VERY LIMITED!!

https://www.edgunwest.com/Store/edgun-west-gearbox/

As many of you may know, I've used nitrogen exclusively for a long while now and it keeps everything nice and clean, and above all, dry. Well, I'm getting tired of running out all the time to get new cylinders. I'm not saying I'm going to stop using n2, but I thought with the new GX filter out, I'd give it a try.
I installed it today, great kit and really easy to setup and use. GX thought of everything.
To fill the filter and get air started to your gun adds almost exactly one minute, so the added time is not a big issue.
One thing that I do notice is that when feeding my compressor 10 psi of n2, it pumps slightly faster than using air, but again, not a big deal.

The filter looks like it's super well built and would last almost forever, and according to GX the filter media is good for a long time. The advert says a year, or that's how I take the graphic included with the unit. I think I'll change it three times a year and be good. I already still have a quart jar of desicant from using a filter before, so I'm good for a long time. I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. At the least, If I do go back to n2 and run out, I still have a quick way to switch over and use air.