The dual tower Tuxing has been pulling every bit of moisture out of my air for over two years.

cvarcher said:

Hey thats a nice stock!!! I wonder if that was made by Cocuran ? I like that it covers the hinged block area I too have a second Hw30s in the R7 flavor. Its a .177cal and its scoped. Ver y deadly accurate.Again a Vortek PG4 kit plus it had a full Custom tune by Paul Watts using the sunnen hone to true up the compression chamber. Its shooting 7.3gr jsb pellets at jst over 700fps. &.83gr express at 685fps. 8 ft lb . The 22cal using those no lead GTO Predator domes make 9ft/ lbs .

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Thank you! It was a special order AOA marked rifle. They were offering a few models in walnut. I do have a Steve Corcoran stocked .177 cal. HW30. Beautiful rifle.

tellis said:

Where to send the money email me please [email protected]

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I have sent you PM's and emails.

I have a .30 bullpup would this work or could you share stk so I could modify it to work or maybe help you modify this one and purchase one?

I know that a lot of people have had good experiences with used airguns and relatively few bad ones. Still, I'm very nervous buying used and dealing with someone, somewhere, I don't know personally.

I do a lot of gunsmithing for friends and seen many used and abused airguns that have been "fixed" or "upgraded" by amateurs who shouldn't be allowed to have a screwdriver.

The casual "tuners" who are always looking for maximum power are the biggest concern - the damage they can do to an airgun is internal and not always apparent by buggered screws.

"Open box" deals are questionable, professionally refurbished items are probably fine.

Personally, I prefer to buy new, pay the asking price and get the manufacturer's warranty and a dealers after sales support. IMHO, unless I know the specific item and the owner, the money saved buying used is not worth the risk of getting damaged goods.

On the flip-side, if you are mechanically inclined, buying a "parts gun" or a damaged gun can be a fun project. By trading some old archery gear, I got a slightly used FX Crown that had been tuned to the point it wouldn't shoot worth a darn. A couple of hours work has yielded my favorite PCP that shoots sub-MOA at 50 yards

If gambling and saving some money is exciting to you - go for it!

...just my (paranoid) opinion.

Cheers and good luck!

Don't think I'd change anything. I had to WORK to get my initial guns (& myself) to perform acceptably and by the time better equipment came my way I found myself to be a competent shooter. I'm glad things happened as they did & don't want to screw with success.

Skip .177 break barrel
Skip .22 break barrel
Skip Semiauto PCP
Start with Air Force Condor .22
Modify the Condor to figure out the engineering
Then start buying old used rifles

Still would buy my Niksan and Reximex rifles new.

Orv said:

I don't believe that theTX200 is made in a stainless steel model. Air Arms is famous for their perfect blueing, quite satisfactory on my TX200 after more than 5 years. If the stainless look is important to you, several fine Weihrauch springers are sold through Air Guns of Arizona have the stainless look.

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Did I mention stainless?

glr59 said:

I've become a big fan of shooting a gun within the parameters of it's design. I've spent way too much over the yrs experimenting with "upgrades." Which leads me to a caliber question. I have a .22 cal HM1000X and would like to toy with a larger caliber. This is for punching paper and accuracy out to 100yards, no hunting. Within the design of a stock HM1000x is it pushing the gun too far with a .30cal? Is the gun going to be happier running with .25cal ammo?

Thanks for the info
Jerry L.

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Jerry

I bought my RAW HM1000x .22 from SPAW in 2018/19 timeframe. I used it exclusively for 100Y BR Target shooting. Martin built it to spec with the Poly barrel to shoot the JSB 25.39g redesign pellets at 935 FPS.

In 2019-2021 time frame, GTA had a monthly 100y informal NUAH ( nothing under a hundred yards) target challenge, which I absolutely loved. I think I participated every month for about two years. The RAW shot consistently very well at my outdoor local range, and I had quite a few NUAH cards that were very solid. I had the random fliers and wind reading challenges, but I was interested in trying a .30 cal barrel to see if I could improve.

Sent it back to Martin and he put on a new .30 cal barrel and pellet probe. I shot the JSB 44.g and although it did well, I ultimately decided to go back to the .22 cal setup. I still have an almost new .30 cal barrel and probe keeping the gun safe warm.

If the AEA 51g and 45g were available at the time, I would have been more patient and practiced more with the .30 caliber. My sense is that you should try the barrel swap and give it a go with these two pellet choices. Quench your thirst.

Until I saw this post, I nearly forgot about having the .30 barrel in the safe. Was going to sell, but maybe I’ll hold off for a bit.

Tom

I've got heavier duty Teflon tape in 3 different colors. As long as it works I'm good. Thought I was ocd & anal but you surpassed me .

Ones I can recommend.

A decent compressor is getting up there with being an essential item. I use a Coltri MCH6.

Buy decent quality riflescopes and Red Dots. Athlon is my #1 choice by far.
Get good qaulity rings and mounts too.

Genrally using pellets for close to mid distance and slugs for longer distances.

The latest version Thomas Slug gun for Benchrest which could cross over for benched varminting/long range varminting, or for long range on steel. There's no other airgun as solidly built and precise as these.

Likewise for Field Target comps the Thomas FT, which can be converted to a pistol as well, if one has the right size version. Super nice guns that are built like tanks.

"So far for me" for a semiauto, the Steyr ProX is tops IMHO. They shoot very well for a semi, are reliable if kept within the optimal pressure range for proper function, but however a little heavy and not sure I'd be walking around hunting with mine a bunch, well haven't. These are fun guns if you just want to shoot fast on steel.
My opinion could change soon once I get some time behind my new Western Morax Venom semi, which I haven't shot yet, but there's zero doubt I'd rather use the Venom for walk around hunting on small game at normal airgun distances due to it's lightweight. I like semi's a lot.

AGT Vulcan 3 for ELR with 60gr Altaros slugs having a .245 G1 BC. Super reliable, surprisingly precise, and a best bang for the buck.

FWB 600-603 series for 10 meter because it's a single pump pneumatic Olympic match rifle. Best to use the aperture sights due to scope mounting issues.

Low power plinking my Steyr LGB1 is a wonderful little rifle for this and it has a very unique cocking mechanism.

The older FX Royales are decent.

Steyr PL5 or LP50 for a semiauto Olympic match pistols.

specie said:

Agree, but I've found a few times on really older airguns (Walther LG55, Anschutz 250 specifically) that the new springs are longer than the older! I just wondered if a spring that had almost never been used, as on this FWB would need replace? Maybe the metal gets less "springy" with time?

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The spring over time will take on a little set. So, it will be shorter than a new one. But so will the new one. The spring in my 57 year old FWB is still shooting at factory specs with the new seals I just installed. The old saying still holds true, “don’t fix it when it ain’t broke”.

Your videos are helpful for hunters getting scoped no fun would you know if the Tex Rex is coming in a .457 carbine

Its like the endless quest to get more power out of your cars turbo for faster acceleration & more fun.

I'm so glad that got addressed. It looked too far off to be right, and moreover, SAFE! Hope everything functions as it should without the cost of physical harm. I just had a gut feeling it needed to be addressed, like yesterday! Arigato gozaimasu

This listing has been renewed

bchannell said:

Funny story....we used to, as protocol, slide the breathing air cylinders in a 8-10" piece of PVC pipe as a blast shield!!!! It was actually written in the procedure. Like that would make ANY difference in a failure. That dint last long when a couple of us brought it up and we bought a fill station with a true blast drawer.

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“Uh, yes, I would like some PVC shrapnel with my tank failure, please.”

Bear-of-Grayling said:

Most gunsmiths will want to replace all internals. Not being certain of past use or abuse, they have their reputation to protect. If you learn to do it yourself then you can maintain it as you go. With the help and encouragement from other AGN members and videos out there, I found the task of replacing the seals quite straight forward.

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Agree, but I've found a few times on really older airguns (Walther LG55, Anschutz 250 specifically) that the new springs are longer than the older! I just wondered if a spring that had almost never been used, as on this FWB would need replace? Maybe the metal gets less "springy" with time?

This listing has been renewed

like.2.fly said:

I've been shooting and hunting all my life, but never with airguns. Do you advise starting with a simple break barrel rifle, or jumping right into PCP with all the related paraphernalia?

Main use would be for general plinking and target shooting, marksmanship training, perhaps some small pest control and light hunting. I'm not a competitive shooter, but accuracy is important and would like to be able to consistently achieve 1" groups at 30 - 50 yards with practice. I prefer classic looking rifles over the modern chassis/bullpup/AR styles. I also need back yard friendly noise levels, and this might be the most important thing. It needs to be as QUIET as possible. Cost isn't the biggest concern, but is a factor. I know break barrels are simpler and cheaper. But what is the quietest and most accurate without making a huge commitment?

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Spring guns are especialy harsh and noisy. The pellet is propelled from the gun by a huge spring and cup that slams into the breech port. That makes noise. Of course, most PCP rifles have a much smaller spring that propels a hammer into the knock off valve which also makes noise. A Maruader with the power turned down, the most noise is the hammer. There is very little recoil.

Spring/Nitro guns also have a reverse recoil that will ruin even air gun rated scopes over time. The barrel breaks open to cock the heavy spring, there is wear and tear on the pivot and lock and over time they do not return to the same place. This is a problem when the scope is mounted on the spring tube and the barrel does not maintain rigid alignment.

The little .177 springers that run about 12 fpe can be fun to shoot, but once you get to a .25 and a power level sufficient for hunting small game they become unpleasant to shoot.

There's a common misconception that slow pumping will cause less moisture.
Look at it this way. There's a finite amount of moisture in your air. It's the pressure that causes the water to precipitate out of the air stream. Think the old analogy of squeezing a sponge. Fast or slow makes no difference, just pressure.

Besides even if pumping slowly actually did reduce the precipitation of moisture...guess where that finite amount of moisture in the air would go? Your gun!

You want the moisture to precip out before it goes into the gun.

The only real concern with heat is what it does to the compressor.

Like said above, I have purchased used from AoA and had to replace one and it was a seamless transition with them, a stand up company for sure.