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Ratzy · Jul 9, 2025

If you are only filling guns and not tanks just ignore the following. GX is all you need. Upgrade the filter to the GX or better Tuxing dual.

For another $100 you can get a MUCH faster compressor, Tuxing TXEDM042. I've been running mine hard for 2 years and it finally needs a rebuild of the high pressure side. Only ever had one problem, breaker for the motor popped on a hot day when topping off a 9l tank.

Dual cylinder
Auto stop
Dual inline filters, one fir most of the water and the 2nd to finish drying.
Much louder than the GX

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq9aMOP

JimD · Jul 9, 2025

I would check the GX website with their 10% off applied. Usually it's less than Amazon but you get it quicker by a few days from Amazon and you can buy an extended warranty from Amazon.

JamesD. · Jul 9, 2025

This listing has been renewed

tommyb · Jul 9, 2025

MikeAllen said:
Braggin' on the Panda Red Panda, not myself! This is the best card I've ever shot. Backyard range, 50 yards, VERY light breeze, .30 cal. Red Panda, AEA 45 grain pellets. This gun just does not seem to have any fliers. Shot four sighters. I believe I pulled 15, 18 and a smidge on 19 which still scored 10, otherwise 10's all the way and 12 X's. In the past the best I could seem to do was high 30's to mid 40's with maybe 5-8 X's. No regrets buying the RP!

View attachment 576472

Very nice card Mike! Feels great when you practice shooting for score, and achieve your highest on the various competition scoring cards.

Your 50.1g pellet holes all look pretty round/symmetrical except for three or four which teared a bit. Tim’s idea / method is a good takeaway for me also when I shoot Mike’s ( CC) old Boss .30. I get tears all the time with either the 44g or 50.1g pellets. I like the idea of pushing the paper or card stock from behind to try and get a more accurate hole to plug for score.
Tom

Struckat · Jul 9, 2025

I think mine was $300 before Christmas. But that was then.

Ratzy · Jul 9, 2025

PNWTrekker said:
Thanks for all the advice, everyone. Given the input, I think I'll snoop around for a good deal on a Diana 34 or similar. As some of you mentioned, I will probably end up having a blast, slip fall down and accidently buy a PCP as well. Best case scenario, I get a springer I love and never stray. Worst case scenario, I end up with a springer and a PCP and have twice the fun.

Only issue i have is cocking force. How easy is it for the child to cock the gun. If they are strong enough you are on the right track. Diana 34 is supposed to be easy, but I'd like to know first.

Couple of PCP that are light, inexpensive and can be hand pumped Umarex Notos and Airforce TalonP. Find them used for $200-300. Both are good reliable guns. TalonP is a single shot. Both can be upgraded. The TalonP more easily and is the easier to maintain.

Struckat · Jul 9, 2025

This listing has been renewed

Don.Chipmunk-slayer · Jul 9, 2025

The rifle rest I JUST finished after 4 days of trial fitting & error, works OK, but there are some shortcomings.

First off, the rear of the rest is too thick. I'm not able to correctly place my face against the cheek of the stock, so my alignment is way off when looking through the scope.

The 'feet,' are made up of triple-layer 2×6×10 boards (front) and triple-layer 2×4×5 boards (rear), with the rear foot height adjustable. They are very steady, but add more weight than I'd like, and with any tilt at all, they only rest on the corner of the boards, not flat.

And finally, the 2×4×24 "backbone" looks like Swiss Cheese from all the screws that I used to attach the different supports, then decided they would work better elsewhere.

I have more than enough scrap wood to competely build a new one, so that's what I'm going to do.

The biggest change will be the support feet. Instead of layered 2×6 and 2×4 boards, I found several feet of 2" (id) PVC pipe.

I'm thinking that I could cut 2, 10" pieces and 2, 5" pieces, double them up and then attach them to the frame as the feet. The curved surface will give a more consistent (but still small) contact patch on the shooting bench, and I will attach rubber pads (like furniture feet pads) to give the tubular feet better grip.

Hopefully I will have V2 pictures this evening.

Ratzy · Jul 9, 2025

Notos .25, low cost, adequate power and light enough for a 9 years old. Can be upgraded for more power. Used can vary, depends on upgrades.

Airforce Escape UL or TalonP more power than Notos. More expensive (500-725 new) Under 5lbs. Very easy upgrade to a lot more power. Single shot. Probably find a used TalonP for $200-$300.

Springers are out for 9 years old.

Jay308 · Jul 9, 2025

This will explain tuning and what is going on, it’s not magic just balancing hammer spring to reg pressure. This should get you going and get that 2 SD / 10 ES.

Use the Macro wheel as a quick tune, to find the plateau and the slope, then when close(at knee) use the micro to fine tune in little steps.

Hobbyman2007 · Jul 9, 2025

Had one years ago. It was a very nice rifle for what I had paid for it but I had one issue with it. The breech seal had disintegrated and I couldn’t find a replacement seal. I think I ended up using a piece of shop hose cut to length and tapered. If you do run into any spare parts for it , buy them as there really aren’t many of these around anymore.

engfred · Jul 9, 2025

qball said:
On the topic of 3D printing, almost done with my prototype impact buttstock to add SubMOA buttpad/hook so I can turn my impact into a WFTF rig.
View attachment 576381

My proposal for backrider. But anyway in the end i ended up designing a simple fixed version for my M4....

engfred · Jul 9, 2025

qball said:
Damn you @engfred! You stole all my thunder!!!

Yes, the printer is Bambu P1P with AMS, P1S wasn’t available at the time but I bought the upgrade kit to make it a P1S. Because I’m interested in designing and printing my ideas or I don’t want 3D printer be my hobbie the Bambi lap printers are absolutely top of the list. I’m tempted to get their new H2D as an upgrade soon.

Also as engfred mentioned the 3D modeling software I use is Fusion 360 and you can get free personal version. Fusion 360 is a bit more nerdy or more engineering focused, you can use freecad or tinkercad for less complex 3d modeling that’s not as heavily engineering focused.

Good luck, I personally like making stuff for my airguns more than shooting them for a long while.

Hi and sorry for my high jack. But I see you agree anyway.
I really like the combination of creating something that dont exist, and then work in details optimizing functions and looks until it is very hard to improve anymore. A joy...

CoyoteGod · Jul 9, 2025

The macro and micro do the exact same thing to the hammer spring just on a different level. Macro meaning bigger and micro mean smaller. Moving to 16 would be a bigger jump of tension on the hammer than moving the micro wheel. I believe the macro is 10 fps or so and the micro is about 2 fps or so depending on reg pressure. Also remember your valve knob for dwell timing. Closing it will slow your speed slightly and at times give you more consistency and better SD and spreads. Opening it for faster speeds and to have valve open longer but it can cause turbulence on your slug as it exits your barrel if open to long. But not always do better SD and spreads equal better accuracy, test at distance for slugs. Test at least 20 rounds for point of impact variation MOA average.

vpno333 · Jul 9, 2025

Black satyv

Dunk1302 · Jul 9, 2025

Hi All..... I'm on the tuning "steep learning curve" with my .22 Impact M4 (600mm). I have a "decent baseline" tune that gives me 990-1000fps with 23gr ZAN slugs, so now I'm looking to see if I can tweak my settings without altering the reg, to preserve my shot count and hopefully reduce my shot spread......

So - my questions:

1. I understand (I think!) that the micro adjuster increases or decreases the preload on the hammer spring - what does the macro wheel do? Is it the same thing, just in coarser increments, or does it have some kind of cam arrangement that does something different?

and

2. Right now, my macro wheel is at 15 and micro is at 4.5ish - would there be any consistency benefit from going up to 16 on the macro and down (maybe to 3.5)on the micro? Would this give less preload on the hammer spring and improve consistency?

I'm still learning "the dark arts" so any insights are appreciated!!

Cheers

Dunk

carlos_hathcock · Jul 9, 2025

Helped out a landowner with an over abundance of the hole diggers. For comparison that hiking boot is a size 12, though there were lots of small juveniles too. Got about 25 the first day in about 3.5 hours. Shots from 2 yards to about 70. A capable rifle sure is a joy

moyley87 · Jul 9, 2025

Can anyone recommend what to set my new huma reg at to shot 30gr for my vulcan 3

Ratzy · Jul 9, 2025

Fly said:
Well I received some JTS dead Center pellets in .22cal & .25cal. I,m impressed with how clean & sized they are. Very accurate also.
looking threw the can there seems no deformed pellets. I still need more testing but so far I really like them.Fly

In .25 they have replaced H&N Barracuda.
Very consistent.

EquivalentDelta · Jul 9, 2025

For me, JTS pellets were as accurate or better than their equivalent JSB, but with a much reduced BC.

Their QC was great. Very clean. No flashing edges.

808 · Jul 9, 2025

I was wondering what you all think about prime day cs3i for 319. Is it a good deal, or just meh? Would 319 be better spent elsewhere. I'm not a heavy use shooter. What you all think?

OldVet · Jul 9, 2025

PNWTrekker said:
First off, hello. I am a new member. I have experience with firearms. I am getting my youngest ready for his first big game hunting season. Logistically, it is a pain in the butt to pack up all the gear and head to the range or find a safe place on USFS land to shoot. Then I thought, I'll just get an air gun we can shoot in the back yard to practice the fundamentals and then get some trigger time on the hunting rifles. That though hatched 2 days ago, and I have spent WAY too much time with my face buried in a screen since then. I have paralysis by analysis.

My question is, for mostly plinking, and some occasional hunting (squirrel sized or smaller), what is the best choice for me? I had decided a scoped Diana 34 .22 (hopefully used) then I started looking at PCPs. Reference the PCPs, I try to be a minimalist (unsuccessfully) and do not like starting a new hobby that is gear intensive. My garage is stuffed to the gills with my current hobbies. I love the simplicity of the springers. Rifle, pellets, and all the benchrest supplies and firearm maintenance tools I already have. With a little luck I am hoping to buy someone's retired Diana 34 that is already scoped so that we can start plinking right away because fall is coming fast! The idea (and expense) of buying a PCP, compressor, and managing the fittings, etc. seems overwhelming to me.

So... is a springer the right choice for me or am I missing out on a MUCH better shooting experience by not going with a PCP?

If it's for a child the Crosman 3622 is a super light choice for a PCP it only fills to 2,000 psi , and is very easy on a compressor.

OldVet · Jul 9, 2025

Try using 2 sets of rings.

OldVet · Jul 9, 2025

I have no idea what any of this means need to do my homework I guess.
When I use a mill dot the very top dot on my scopes vertical line is zero not the center cross dot. That way each dot down is a little further out allowing the use of the full range of the dots not just 1/2. I will learn about this turret stuff the best I can tho.

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Is Prime day GX cs3i for $319 a good deal?