After further reading, looks like my situation is completely normal for M4. They max out hammer tension at 125-135. Stock hammer is 6g. The 8-10g hammer on ebay is one solution. Another is just to use tuning method that starts with max hammer tension and turn reg up till I get to my target (920fps then tuned down to 880).

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BassMan said:

I use a Beeman 2027 to routinely take out pests at 40 yards and less easily. I have 2, 1 I left as a pistol and 1 that I turned into a carbine with parts from Buck Rail. The gun is under $180.

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I didn't know that one, looks good, but 40cm long and 1.7 kg... that's a brick of a pistol.

More of a practice day for me, trying to knock off some rust. I started with 13gr pellets on another target, but the rifle wasn’t liking them today.
I used a 177 scoring plug

Jack Rabbit @ 38 yards...headshot
Daystate Pulsar 177
JSB 13.43g Knockout @ 978 fps / 28 fpe

My new (used) Daystate Pulsar made her first contribution to the rabbit stew. Hit just above and behind the right eye and exited the left eye.

Love this Pulsar!

These Jack Rabbits creep me the hell out, they're like alien bunnies, just creepy looking.
Oh well, they make a good stew.

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JimD said:

It seems like somebody does not want us to travel. I plan to fly two weeks from today for a Builders for Christ volunteer trip and I am not looking forward to it. The time in the air is not an issue for me but I cannot even take a pocket knife because it scares the stewardesses. A little less than 2 inch knife. And they are "there for my protection". Lots of nonsense goes with flying. Getting through TSA will probably take over an hour at Charlotte, it did last time I flew. If our politicians flew commercial instead of on private planes maybe things would get better. But it is really nice to save hours of time.

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Greyhound!

trapdoor2 said:

No problem, I just hadn't stopped 2 sec. to measure. All they had were grade 8, X 1-1/4" long. Grade 8 might test my hacksaw...but it fits fine. I'm an old mech. Won't take but a few minutes.View attachment 572090
Done!

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Good, I was worried I owed you gas money .

Grade 5 or 8 will not be terrible to cut. I usually zip bolts off with a pneumatic cutoff wheel and then dress on a belt sander. You can spray paint it black. I like to dress the bolt markings from the head. A lath can dress of the hex shape if wanted. Many ways to skin that cat(fish).

Adjust the length to clear the stock and fit your grip. You should, with a bit of technique practice, now find cocking to be much easier and more tactile. Grip the bolt in close to the center line, not out on the end. If you have a stiff hammer spring (which my rifles do not have) a bit of wrist flex as you squeeze increases your leverage.

I put a dab of Vibratite on the end threads and let it dry. Then threaded in. This keeps it from back out.

Break barrels are too weak to be much use in .25. A good .22 will be good to 30 yards if you can get the distance that close.

nervoustrig said:

View attachment 572119

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They must have meant per month or is that per week?

Downside to semi auto after shooting them and then going back to side lever or bolt and wishing all of them were semi auto

My favorite shot...90 yards rock squirrel with 54g slug @ 976 fps

Nooyen T said:

Where is a good place to get cz barrels? I have a condor n am interested in a non choked barrel.

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you can always have the last inch turned off a factory barrel and recrowned.. PM me if you want that, it's easy with a lathe and I've always gotten very good crowns.. PS.. it will only cost you postage and just the barrel..
Mark

Very nicely setup R7 you have there. They are such enjoyable and accurate shooters.
R

The Archer said:

AirForce Texan LSSCF .510. Heavily modified and very accurate at distances that defy the limitations of air rifle norms View attachment 572055View attachment 572051View attachment 572050View attachment 572061View attachment 572066View attachment 572067

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Off the 15?

I can say this with absolute certainty, my airgun habit wreaks absolute havoc on my budget, always.

I see on exploded parts diagram it looks like your correct. Thats what I thought too but Im puzzled as to why its takes so much hammer spring tension to get in range.

At 120 on the reg Im getting 900fps with the hammer spring tension maxed. Im using the tuning method where you start with low hammer tension and find the knee where fps dips instead of increasing. But the problem is Im not seeing it since I don’t have enough hammer tension even at max. I don’t have this issue with a m3 I have. That one was bought as a .30 cal so no wonder

Im wondering if I received a sub 12 model with low power springs or maybe since the M4 has a larger plenum than my M3 I need a lower reg setting like 110ish. I really just want to 880fps nothing special

Thanks

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Lots of good info. Thanks everyone!
The thing that prompted the question was my Walther LP53 … the barrel is zamac but has a finish that looks much like blued steel. Not sure how they did that. I’m sure Walther has it’s own magic, but for us mere mortals I’m thinking about black chrome … if it can be applied to zamac, that is.