Steve,
Have you tried QYS pellets? When I had a 10M gun those pellets shot remarkably better than all others.

@Normkel Thank you, again!! I know Remington changed to teflon O-rings in the 1100 shotgun because of the neoprene (or maybe Viton) failures. Interesting video; the Nuoge doesn't appear to be near as complicated, probably because it is a less expensive unit.

OkWinemaker said:

Did you get the .25 caliber Yokozuna?

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yes, a .25 mod on the .22 DRS, and a .357 mod on the .30 panthera.

They also make me feel very cool and badass when i am out back by myself shooting it.

6gun said:

Thermal expansion and contraction can account for some pretty serious movement.

Not 30 bar tho. Buy a can of crc aerosol leak checker

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Never heard of CRC before this... Seems a messy, expensive way to test for leaks!

I use these with a bit of soapy water in them...

The smaller silhouette targets have more 'Risk' to hit them, but more points 'Reward' when hit.
(I couldn't think of a better name - does anyone have a suggestion?)

Emjay4248 said:

GK1 25 for rats. Works like a charm

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Yes it will. Don't miss.

RWC123 said:

I think y'all just described the characteristics of the Air Force guns.
You can get a .257 or .308. They are powder burner diameters and shoot longer slugs at higher BC's with high very high FPE. The only downfalls are they are not regulated and you have to single load. I really wish AF would update them...

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Really easy to regulate AF guns. And put a big bottle on. Single load vs loading a magazine. Unless you have more than two magazines pretty much a wash time wise.

Top to Bottom
Huben Power Dream Regulator
Huben Power MAX-ATH Universal Regulator
Home brew plenum setup with Huben Power regulator 1/2, U adapter, 120CC 3000psi tube and Trajectron angled adapter.

Kinda looks like an aluminum guage block in a steel tube like an mrod.

xKSBx said:

I know some people don't like Hatsan but I like the Bullmaster I got from them. I'm probably just gonna end up grabbing a standard Blitz and holding onto it til I can find someone selling the BP for a decent price. I can't figure out why Hatsan would make them and then not release them in the US. The market's definitely here. It's like they don't want to make money.

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I have a Bullmaster, took some experiments but once I got the return spring, hammer spring and regulator pressure dialed in the gun shoots with a very rare failure to advance. Not the most powerful gun but for putting a whole bunch of rounds downrange it is very good.

I almost always shoot off my Coman KX3636 tripod with a Weyllan ARCA adapter. Guns with a bottom side picatinny get a ARCA adapter and I have 3 ARCA clamps for those that do not.

The clamps do not work nearly as well as the adapter. I have added picatinny to a couple of guns just to use the adapter.

Sean_E said:

Beautiful

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Eliminator above hw90 below
Eli .22 26fpe hw90 .25 24fpe

I buy my upgrade parts mostly from Trajectron in India. Most of the parts are significantly cheaper. They ship DHL and arrive in 5-7 days after ordering. Shipping is very reasonable, usually $17.

Angled bottle adapter is $23.50
Heavy hammers $45

Only thing they don't carry is barrels.

GK1 25 for rats. Works like a charm

MSR Workshop said:

Ok, ok …. Hold up! tell me about the grip you have on your Epoch !! I can’t stand the grip on mine. It sounds like a creaky door. the EVO is fine…. the Epoch… not so much.
And that ajustable thing attached to the bottom ?

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I replied to your PM about the grip, the adjustable think is a 3D-printed bag rider file that I found and modified, useful if I am trying to test pellet accuracy and as a rear stand.

Nice low humidity and rarely below 45f or above 80f. Thank you Alaska current for keeping the ocean water so chilly. Condenses all that nasty moisture right out if the air. Annual average temp 62.5f

the 2 i have killed here in the backyard were with a 20 gauge at 30 yards with 4 shot ,, 3inch shells. they were body shots mostly.
now a 20 ga #4 muzzle speed is around 1175 to 1200 with the shells i used but slows down to around 785 fps at 30 yards were as a 22 with a 950 muzzle speed drops off to round 850 at 30 yards according to the research i have done ,, i know the 22 is maybe 3mm smaller the a #4 shot but none of mine hit the head it was body shot.... chek my numbers and make sure ,,like i said before i could be wrong.

ngapls said:

My experiece with the Yokuzuna reminds me of a loud harley exhuast. It's very deep and kinda poser, like you want to make your airgun more "badass" when your out shooting with your alfa buddies. The Huma 40 will make most guns with a shroud sound broken after installing. STO Falx works great on everything.

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STO really does make the quietest moderators when you get the flow calculations right. Huma and 0db are a close 2nd. Odb being much more compact and stylish.

I haven't found my DFL Sumo to be as good as my much cheaper Reximex Silent Force or Airgun Capital moderators.

En mi caso, sufro de cambios de punto de interés. Uso mis armas exclusivamente en un campo de tiro. Este campo está a nivel del mar. Disparo con potencia europea, de 16 a 24 julios, y prácticamente solo disparo con BR a 25 metros.Mis sesiones de tiro casi siempre empiezan temprano, sobre las 8:00 a. m. La temperatura es relativamente fresca, hay mucha humedad y el aire es muy denso. Mis primeros disparos son bajos y compenso con la mira. A medida que sube la temperatura, compenso menos hasta alcanzar el punto óptimo.Bueno, le echo la culpa a las temperaturas. Puede que me equivoque. La verdad es que he aprendido a vivir con ello y no toco la mira telescópica porque sé que se reiniciará sola. Los rifles, un Steyr Challenge, con su chasis de aluminio, es el más espectacular, son muy sensibles a las temperaturas, y en países como Inglaterra hay muchos usuarios que se quejan de ello...

FX Crown .177,es la menos que lo sufre,su culata es de polímero y creo que esto le ayuda bastante,es una carabina maravillosa.

Y por último el FX King .22 con chasis sabell-tactical, todavía estoy luchando con este rifle y estoy empezando a pensar que comprarlo fue un grave error,estoy empezando a comprender que es un rifle diseñado y creado para operar a alta potencia y disparar a largas distancias y yo pretendo lo contrario,el caso es que el rifle funciona perfectamente, y a veces sin tocar nada pasan varios balines por el mismo agujero, pero últimamente noto que los primeros disparos son bajos y lentos (usando el crony) y a los 5 o 6 vuelven a su potencia, siendo el arma muy precisa y consistente.Esto me pasa al principio de una sesión de rodaje, independientemente de la temperatura, o bien después de dejarla un par de horas, y me tiene un poco confundido.Seguiré trabajando en ello por un tiempo, le daré una oportunidad, puede que no sea el rifle perfecto, quizás necesite más experiencia.


125 / 5.0

My experience with the AirForce platform, both condor and talon, has been the exact opposite. First one was an older .22 TalonSS I got off Craigslist for $100. Tophat was leaking. Fixed that in 10 minutes. It was decent out to 40-45 yards out back with the 12 inch barrel. Put in a 18 inch barrel and it was nuts on.

Then I continued to upgrade. Huben Power Max-ATH regulator, high flow tophat, heavy spring, heavy hammer, CF tank.

200bar, 1100FPS with H&N Barracuda Match. Then I cranked it back down to 1800psi and 850FPS.

I now have a .25 Condor and .22 TalonSS upgraded to .25 24 inch. After upgrades and adding big plenums if I crank the reg pressure to 200bar the H&N Barracuda go supersonic. I run them at about 1750psi for 850FPS.

All 3 are some of my most accurate and consistent rifles. Easiest platform to maintain and to upgrade.

After looking at it, doesn't seem like a good idea to drill and tap a hole in the side of a high pressure tank. Anyone know what the thread is, hopefully not a tapered pipe thread. Maybe just give me a new tube without the hole in the side, I really don't need to know the pressure after the reg.

Upon closer inspection, it is a straight thread with an oring at the bottom. However, the tank is not as big in diameter as it looks, that is a sleeve over the length of the tank. My gauge was barely finger tight and bottomed out on the sleeve after 4 turns, see scrape marks in the picture. I'm not really liking this at all.

Sorry for the lousy pic, I'll get some better ones in the morning.

That should make things easier!
Cant wait to see it sprayed with camo!

This listing has been renewed

I recommend getting the threaded version and putting a hardened steel male on it instead. The brass male is cheaper and shorter but brass males arent strong enough long term. The indentations from the balls will raise a burr and it will fail to fit and eventually will blow out.