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Benjamin  Optimum velocity

some of my best pellet results came from my old dreamline tac with the .25-600 1:16 liner installed. the 25.3/25.4's were gyroscopically unstable due to the twist rate being too fast. But the 34gr pellets were lethally accurate, you could really reach out with them. I Reverted back to the 1:24 superior because 25.4gr at 895-900 is ample energy to end any squirrel or bird, and .75-1.25moa at 100 is more than acceptable. Also 90-95 shots is "mo betta' than 55-60
I'm using a 380mm pellet liner and I'm shooting the 25.4 kings accurately out to birds at 110 yards thus far. My mrod just falls apart almost exactly at 75 yards no matter the velocity, weather, wind, or angle. The pellets start to big spiral like magnus is getting them.
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Karma  .25 Karma EQ has arrived!

Yeah, it’s not your average cheap air again any little adjustment at least mine changes the whole game not power also the trigger I adjusted it once and it was short light crisp but unfortunately, the safety wooden engage so I had to go back end up, leaving at factory stock
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N/A  I think we need a new caliber among .25 and .30 for hunting and Target shooting

Well is not that it hasn't been done..TJ has a 284 barrel 1-14 that a YouTube guy used in his custom .40 Badger it work great with 135 gr Lee mold - there is a few of. 284 aviable at eBay from time to time.. the Texan or the long AEA Rifle would be a candidate for a barrel swap.. another guy here compete with a armada in .284 at ARMAC now he is assembling a 308 in the same gun .. really hard to get custom molds the only one that could make custom one of goes only from 284 n up not .22 no 25 .. the other 2 custom mold maker will only do them if they're is a batch of 10 people or more.. i though about 6mm but in my case I already have almost every shootable mold in 224 up to 64gr and the same for 257 including a difficult to find 98gr RBT from B&M .. there are a few 6mm mold aviable.. but a custom barrel will be needed..
It's a pain but the custom mold thing isn't insurmountable, I cast zero for airguns but was casting a bunch of esoteric stuff for pb years back. It's attainable. Or you gotta make your own. I suppose my view is tainted by being slightly attached to aerospace machining and having a lathe myself. No I've never made molds... yet but I'm pondering it. I feel your pain to a degree, being a contrarian I married myself to 284 when 6 and 6.5 became the trend. Honestly I'm astonished it didn't bleed over to elr airgun.


Contrarian comedy opinion. Vld 20 cal slugs 😂

Field Target is an arms race.

I'm still trying to create a particular type of FT target is designed to teach the shooter about wind as per what Mike is describing:
the inserted cards are basically BR cards, when you hit the target a paddle flips up to block a second shot. Retrieval of the card also shows a numerical score AND an indication of how well you hit (or missed) the Bullseye. Not necessarily practical for a match but certainly doable for a couple of shooters at a time or on your own clock at a range.
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I have seen these and keep trying to make something similar out of what I already have. Might have to call Paul lol.
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Field Target is an arms race.

My HFT-500 is a magic combo that can clear the corse. I decided to go back to my springers for the challenge. I spent two weeks with my Diana 48 and it cleared one lane twice after tweeting and getting used to it. It is a solid HFT rig now. Then my TX 200 I spent all weekend shooting with a new scope. It just about cleared the corse. The only miss was when I used the bullseye instead of the hold over or the trigger was touched and the gun went off. I shoot a lot and i’m starting to think it might not be the gun.
Next week I’m going to spend time with my old Browning Leverage and see how long it takes before it clears the corse. I think the whole gun and scope cost 250 bucks.
I believe your faith or belief that your equipment is perfect plays a big part in your score that and your belief in your ability.
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What did you do airgun related today.

I'll be 65 this Tuesday on the 24 the , and I'm going to try a supplement called
Lions main mushroom it is a memory herb.
So sorry to hear about memory loss problems as I have that already.
I'm a year behind you; 64 next month. My memory ain't what it used to be but... That memory crack is the lead in to a dumb joke that I say whenever I forget something.

A: They say that memory is the second thing to go.
B: What's the first?
A: I don't remember.

Just to stay on-topic, I messed with the Rainson over the past few days. At this point I think I'm done messing with it. When I do find that leak and fix it, if I find it, I'll have a gun that requires modification to adjust the hammer spring, modification to (nontrivially) adjust the trigger, and degassing to adjust the regulator upwards or downwards; that adjustment knob is strictly for show unless you have the guts to go after it with a monkey wrench. I've already got an Avenger that doesn't leak that I can adjust all those things. /rant off
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HW/Weihrauch  HW50 , the challenge continues

the easiest option is to bend the barrel , carefully ! a little goes a long long way . MY HW30 looks the same @ the breach .
Thanks. Thought of this but thought to ask the gun geniuses first. And glad I did. Crow
That’s breech hang up. The bottom area under the block need to be filed to let it drop to level it as well as may have to relieve the face a tad. Depends. It’s all by experiance And feel . Seals will need to be fitted to.

It happens mostly with barrel swaps as tolerances can carry and .05/+- mm can make a huge difference when the breech hits that flat area under the chisel detent

HW RARELY have barrel droop and mostly from fly ups while cocking.
You need to disassemble it check the breech for strait ness to barrel .. I use my granite counter top

Bending won’t fix a poor sealing lock up. Only slight material removal to fit the action will you can clearly see innthe pic the difference in the side pic of the breech line to fork gap.
Thanks. I suspected a switch.
What you say makes sense. I will try that when I get a chance. Crow

Field Target is an arms race.

I'm going to point out a few things here that I tend to think should be obvious but clearly are not when I hear the comments being made.

If you want to compare accuracy of anything...you don't do it by small sample group size or by shooting at a ft target. You do it by shooting benchrest cards. Lots of guns can shoot well for small sample sizes. Very few can shoot well over large sample sizes and large temperature changes.

If you don't have great wind reading skills...shoot br cards indoors from a rest or bags and obtain an average. Then do it with another gun. It will be very clear which is most accurate.

After you have established a bench average indoors.....now shoot cards indoors from your position. It will be glaringly apparent if you suck at your position. If you suck at your position then you better continue shooting from position indoors until you can at least nearly equal your bench scores.

When you can nearly shoot as well from position indoors in br cards....you're now ready to go outside and add wind on BR cards from position. Shooting at ft targets rather than paper is not going to help you know the wind. You must have 100% correct feedback every time which means seeing a hole in paper. Shooting a ft target that you cannot see where you hit is nowhere near as effective for learning wind as fast as possible. You will learn the wind the fastest by shooting over wind flags. Once you know wind over flags you can start looking at environmental cues that align with your flags so you can learn the wind without the flags.

Another huge factor in FT that most shooters seem completely oblivious to is how a gun shoots over a broad range of temperature. Lots of guns that are accurate in the morning cannot hit anything in the afternoon. Lots of them. I can't even count the number of times I've seen a lane partner hit everything in the morning after sight in and nothing after the temps came up. Most airguns do not maintain speed very well when temperatures change. Some guys learn their temp changes so they can compensate for it.

A properly tuned Thomas with the standard valve and spring will shoot the same speed range over a massive temperature change. Like 60-80 degrees. If you think that isn't significant in the game of FT....you are not very experienced or maybe you never go anywhere with a different climate. 40 degree temp swings are normal where I live. 60 degrees can happen.

Other guns also have mechanical poi changes due to temperature. This meaning that the poi is not changing with speed but because of some other shrinkage or growth of metal or other material. Thomas rifles don't do that.

If you don't know how these individual factors affect your performance....then you are wasting time. If you want to do the absolute best in the shortest amount of time with your given resources....stop practicing ft on metal targets. It will only make you sloppy.

Learning how to manage a gun and keep it in the most accurate zone is a skill that most FT shooters simply do not possess. Learning how to clean, when to clean and even the best pellets to use is not something you are going to do on a metal target with a big hole in it.

Learning to shoot 250s on 25m BR cards from position will take you places that you could never reach otherwise and it will take you there faster.

A 1/2 moa gun that never has a flier and maintains its poi over a massive change in temperature will always score more points than a 90% 1/2 moa gun that loses 40fps when the temp drops or gains when it increases. BR cards will show you this.

Mike
I'm still trying to create a particular type of FT target is designed to teach the shooter about wind as per what Mike is describing:
the inserted cards are basically BR cards, when you hit the target a paddle flips up to block a second shot. Retrieval of the card also shows a numerical score AND an indication of how well you hit (or missed) the Bullseye. Not necessarily practical for a match but certainly doable for a couple of shooters at a time or on your own clock at a range.
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Recommendations on small tanks

For portable I like 2L or 3L and a backpack.
At home when working on guns overnight I have several 9L & 6.8L bottles.
All of mine are CE certified and you have to fill those at home as Dive Shops and various other locations will require the MUCH more expensive DOT certified.
You have a compressor so no issue there.

If you plan to tether your gun, I like to use a regulated fill valve set to around my gun regulator setting or a nominal value for non-regulated.

Squirrel union meeting

Squirrels must have had a union meeting last night . only one lone squirrel out in 3 hours this AM . Maybe it was a scout that drew the short straw ? she did not report back .
My squirrel's union disbanded a couple of years ago due to lack of membership. My wife was on chemo and while at the cancer center the union members decided to destroy over $300 worth of hummingbird and bird feeders. They about have a quorum now to be able to vote again. Mark
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Petition to Allow Laser Range Finders in Field Target Competitions

There have been a few competitors over the years that use bracketing over parallax to range targets. It was 'easier' when they could shoot prone, after prone was discouraged bracketing has primarily gone away.

The biggest issue was time, the competitors who bracketed used every second of their five minutes. At Worlds level events you have less time to shoot the targets, pretty sure bracketing would take too long.

These guys had notebooks full of data for all kinds of stuff, target sizes, pieces of wood, cinderblocks, etc, etc. They shot well without using bracketing and with using bracketing, I would have to ask them directly if they believed bracketing was better or if it just took a lot of time. They don't do it currently.
Combine the two. I was simply talking about one method. Bracketing gives you the ballpark, using the parallax puts the finer edge on it.
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HW/Weihrauch  HW40, Light trigger & Spring tension issues.

Greetings,
My HW40 has always had a light trigger, but it has recently started having spring return issues for the first stage.
If you release the trigger prior to firing, the trigger hangs loose.
I thought I would discuss the problem here to see who may know what's is going on with it before opening it up.
Thanks 👍

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