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Mycapt65 · Friday at 7:39 PM

KWK said:
Ron, AO can be very useful when hunting. Set it for 30 yards on lower power while walking in. That should give you sufficient depth of field for anything you walk up on. When you find a place to sit for a while. Use max power and the objective to rangefind a few trees, features, etc in your perimeter. Now you have a very good idea of range when game appears.
For me a nice light variable is worth the weight. The old Korean 3-9x32 Bushnell Sportview was great for this. Beeman sold them and some came as Blue Ribbon. (I'll never put an ugly blue scope on any gun of mine ). Nice clear optics.

we'll have to agree to disagree. I've never needed more than 4x for anything I'd be shooting with an Air rifle. I'm familiar with your technique but in practice I've missed far more opportunities than I care to admit to because the scope was on the wrong power and or parallax setting when something pops up at an unexpected distance. I can hit a 500 yard 10" plate with an AR with a 1-6X. A fixed 4X works (for me) for anything I should shoot with an air rifle.

igolfat8 · Friday at 7:37 PM

Another great score posted Dana!

The scores are so close in the pro class:

TOP 5 SHOOTERS IN THE PRO CLASSIFICATION

RANK	NAME	CLUB	AGG	X
1	Harvey Waldron III	Tacoma Rifle Revolver Club	2249	152
2	Dennis Kunkel	Open Grove	2248	140
3	Dana Wyse	Sunnyvale Rod and Gun Club	2248	137
4	Mark Clemons	Meeker Sportsman Club	2248	133
5	Mark Huber	Tacoma Rifle Revolver Club	2247	141

L.Leon · Friday at 7:30 PM

Nealgl1985 said:
Will the pathfinder shoot the heavier stuff well?

The heaviest pellets I‘ve sent are the JSB Exact Jumbo 18.13s... Which it shoots as accurate as I can hold. Have also tried the Air Arm 16 gr. Diabolo Field which are excellent. Some numbers from mine as received from AOA. I ran all three TP settings… I haven’t changed a thing and have been using it as received, right out the box. I don‘t believe the platform was designed to send 25 gr. pellets.

CPHPs / TP High
Hi: 846 Low: 835 Avg: 841 Std: 3 ES: 11 FPE: 22.4

CPHPs / TP Med
Hi: 836 Low: 829 Avg: 834 Std: 2.27 ES: 7 FPE: 22

CPHPs / TP Low
Hi: 794. Low: 784 Avg: 789 Std: 3.36 ES: 10 FPE: 19.7

JSB Exact Jumbo 18s/ TP High
Hi: 794 Low: 782 Avg: 788 Std: 4.94 ES: 12 FPE: 24.8

The following two groups show some of the accuracy of the Pathfinder when I’m on point…

Raider03 · Friday at 7:27 PM

Impact701 said:
I was wondering the same thing ? So I shot a baseball sized potato at 30 yards, it popped just like when I hit one with a hollow point.

..and meplats performance does not depend on expansion. I hope they make a 177 version!

RoosterCogburn · Friday at 7:27 PM

So far I've had 1 of 9 +$1200 - $2000 guns come with a hard case that could fit a scoped gun. The impact.

4 of 9 if you count the AGT soft cases.

The Uragan, Uragan2 , and vixen.

I am also of the opinion its insultingly cheap they dont throw in larger case.

Cantona256 · Friday at 7:26 PM

ZekeZX10 said:
OUSTANDING! How are you liking the Karma EQ

Im really liking it so far! I’m still slug testing. These 52gr are good but this gun wants heavier. Also, it will fit, cycle and load all those super long griffin boat tails! I’m probably gonna end up with something around the 58-65gr zone just because I like to shoot them faster for the “flatness.”

Beyond that the gun is heavy but shoulders well. It has a solid steel barrel and a big plenum. So it can take riding shotgun in dirt roads and hiking the desert.

The reg hates to move so you have to dry fire a bunch to make it settle every time you move it. That’s annoying. It takes a lot of air to tune it. Beyond that tuning is easy… I’m right at 101fpe and getting exactly 30 good shoots a fill.

Feels like there’s a lot of headroom for power still. I’ve hit 110fpe with the Griffins so far but someone smarter than me is gonna hit 120fpe+ slinging something heavy haha.

wildcj5 · Friday at 7:24 PM

This listing has been renewed

wildcj5 · Friday at 7:24 PM

This listing has been renewed

Raider03 · Friday at 7:23 PM

Centercut said:
I received some of those Tuesday, and shot about a tin today. 700mm .22 cal 1:16 twist Superior Heavy liner in a Skout Evo.
I shot them at 950, 975, and 1000 fps at 104 yards. All speeds were very accurate, but 950 ish fps was best.
One thing that surprised me was BC G1. It seems many of the “Influencers” are getting crazy high BC. For me, that wasn’t the case. Over the three speeds tested BC was about 0.156 to 0.160. Not bad, but not in Altaros territory.

View attachment 586449

Just to make sure things were good, I shot my old standby .25 Panthera 600mm with @Altaros 49.5 grain slugs at 888 fps. BC was the usual, today right at 0.209 G1.

View attachment 586450

Can you reduce the velocity of the Ace slugs down to 890fps.

blueflax · Friday at 7:20 PM

I thought for $1500 (what I thought was a lot for a pellet gun at the time) the damn case it came with should fit the damn rifle with a scope.

This is far too true.

Ron

JimD · Friday at 7:18 PM

I've shot two 200s on the 30 yard challenge with inexpensive (under $500) SPA bullpups. Definitely not benchrest rifles in design but accurate enough to have fun with. Both are 22s. Probably not powerful enough for longer range but under 50 yards they will work. The Stoeger Scout and Ranger are similar in construction but are more conventional in design.

JimD · Friday at 7:12 PM

I haven't belonged to a rifle range since 2008 but when I did, I had stands make of 1x2s I took with me. Thicker heavier wood might be easier to work with but 1x2s are cheaper and lighter and strong enough. The base could be made like Mongoose's design where the upright slips into the base. That might mean the base should be 1x4s. They will not withstand hits well but would be cheap to repair or replace. I used them with powder burners so there was no practical way to make something that was both portable and would survive.

At home I put small traps on either a brick column with a concrete paver on top or on a portable stand I made out of an old brake rotor and a piece of pressure treated 4x4. The 4x4 column has taken a lot of hits but is still usable. The brake rotor is heavy enough to make a sturdy base. You'd need an inexpensive source of brake rotors or drums but they don't have to be usable on a car to work for this.

cyknife · Friday at 7:11 PM

This listing has been renewed

doninva · Friday at 7:09 PM

I am about 99% sure this is for a record trigger unit but could anyone confirm. I found it in one of my parts bins. Evidently l forgot l had it. Old age socks sometimes

. Don

bchannell · Friday at 7:07 PM

Serious good inexpensive...no.
Informal good, sure, just depends on your expectation.

Raider03 · Friday at 7:06 PM

Impact701 said:
I was wondering the same thing ? So I shot a baseball sized potato at 30 yards, it popped just like when I hit one with a hollow point.

Nice!

blueflax · Friday at 7:05 PM

Good is a relative term. For many years, I felt that a good air rifle was a 2 MOA rifle. I still do. Two MOA at 75 yards is 1.1/2 inches, and the 8 ring on the EBR target is 2 inches. If you shot all your shots into the 8 ring, you would have a good score.

Do I still shoot EBR with the Marauder I took to my first match? No, I shoot an FX, but it is a rifle I grew into.

Any benchrest match is a "gear heavy" sport. To let expense deny oneself the experience and the community of the competition is a bad call. At the basic level, benchrest with pellets is a marksman ship challenge. After my first EBR, I though, "This is the best no BS match I have ever been to". Air rifle benchrest is still that high on my list.

Ron

rdtricks · Friday at 7:02 PM

Would like to help but seem unable to open the picture

steve123 · Friday at 6:59 PM

Franklink said:
Thread 'Field Target is an arms race.' https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/field-target-is-an-arms-race.1324782/

Some variation of "the arrow or the indian" popped up in that discussion probably a good 30+ times. I recently ran across this quote and it gave me a good snicker.

"The flight of the arrow is as true as the skill and the nerve of the man with the bow." Attributed to the legendary Fred Bear.

Interesting thing about that quote is the 60ish years he spent pursuing better equipment. Obviously he was a businessman, and the parallel goal was surely to make money and have a successful company, but engrained in that business side of things was his perpetual march towards better equipment. He was granted various patents for his advancements in archery over those decades of the pursuit of "better."

Better might be the enemy of good, but I'll take better over good when it comes to my field target equipment any day for the week, and twice on Sundays.

Nothing new here really, just a reiteration that it takes "better" equipment, and "the skill and nerve" to use it to its capacity to win ft matches. Ie, those who win matches are those with the better equipment, and the work ethic to spend time figuring out how to get the most out of it (practice).

Once one has the combination of equipment and ammo capable of the highest scores it then comes down to "accuracy"/(how perfectly placed each shot is) which is determined by the projectile sender, a person which has the edge to achieve that extra point needed to get that top score.

In the past summer months I've come to the conclusion that I lack that edge because if I practice it isn't much so I've been relying on my old intuitions from years gone by which mostly nets some 2nd places, lol!
I fool myself by thinking I can do better than I do without sending lots of lead downrange but I shoot against those that do that very thing and it shows in the match results. The truth is that their wind intuition is more seasoned from "doing" rather than me and my hopium on match day, lol.

But there is that luck factor thing which puts some irony into the equation like if when one is shooting and the wind lays down vs when the others get a windy situation when they are shooting.

Of course the ultimate is those that practice and have the luck factor going for them as well.

I see that putting in the work pays it's dividends.

rdtricks · Friday at 6:58 PM

The least expensive benchrest rifle will be something you build or cobble together - stopping when you realize enough money has been put into the project.

youngsamm1950 · Friday at 6:57 PM

Liontracks said:
Maybe we can meet up at Cleveland national forest. Anyone decided to go on a weekend let me know

I'm usually off on Friday and Saturday.

stovepipe · Friday at 6:55 PM

etothen said:
It is an AMP regulator as far as I can tell, hex head not screw driver, looks internally exactly as expected given the AoA FX AMP rebuild video.

The reg pressure was set at 107-109 'ish, then I turned the set screw an eight of a turn and the plenum reg pressure jumped to 150 which was the bottle pressure at the time. So I pulled the bottle off and dry fired to drop the plenum pressure to zero and reinstalled the bottle and the plenum pressure jumped back to the bottle pressure. So I did this a couple more times as a kind of control alt delete for regs and the behavior continued.

So next I put the bottle on and hooked it up to the pump (unrelated side note below on this btw) and the plenum pressure followed the bottle pressure up to 180 before I stopped the pump, removed the bottle and dry fired until the plenum was completely empty.

Then I tried screwing the reg probe in until I just felt it touch something, about two and a half turns and I attached the bottle again and the plenum reg pressure again showed the same value as the bottle. So it looked like the plenum reg was stuck open, but it did still hold pressure when I took the bottle off. I was surprised that it looked open, but only one way?

So I gave in, went to the AoA site video on the M2 reg rebuild and removed the reg, inspected the piston, surfaces and O rings and found that everything looked lie it should with the notable exception of a lack of grease. I lubed the reg parts up, but only with silicone oil and then and reassembled it as per the instructions with the one problem being that I tracked the washers but I did not see any difference in color in the last two counter to the instructions in the Reg breakdown video describing them as Black, they were the same color as the rest of the washers?

When I attached the bottle the plenum pressure still followed the bottle pressure. But now when I detached the bottle the plenum pressure dropped to zero so I hade at least changed that. So I ordered some thick silicone grease and a new set of O rings. I suspect that they were the original rings and that they had not been adjusted or lubricated with grease in a very long time and doing anything to them made them give up.

So I have experience building/rebuilding and maintaining scientific equipment including gas chromatographs (I am atheoretical/computational climate physicist that has had enough practical experience with machinery that I am quite handy on the experimental side) and in my experience the surfaces I inspected looked like they were in excellent condition, the washers looked and acted exactly as expected and I suspect that the O rings are the likely suspects so I will carefully pull it apart, grease it liberally, install new O rings (although I am not looking forward to that one inside the block even though I have the perfect flat spade shaped dental probe that I bent into just the right shape to get into that 'ringland' so here's to hoping) and see what happens.

If it works, great, if not, well it is only 11 dollars wasted on the new O rings and I will re-asses then. I would point out that finding AMP regulators to replace or rebuild it has proven problematic and if I cant figure out the sourcing problem I may end up wit a Huma regulator for that reason. If you know where to find AMP regs and or rebuild kits let me know.

I hope I properly, sequentially and adequately addressed your questions with my lengthy diatribe about my regulator problems and would love any information about what was happening and exactly where I blew it because there was an easyer fix I missed lol.

PS. It was probably replacing the pin O ring next to it's head wasn't it?

*I have just started this hobby again after a couple decades and am new to PCP's and have been shocked by the pressures these little instruments work at and further shocked that I could get a, so far, reliable pump for $150 that will regularly pump them up too 300+Bar.

Hi etothen. Thanks for the info -- all good info. From what you have experienced, I'd say it's definitely the O-ring on the set screw that is closest to the piston that needs to be replaced that was allowing air from the tank to flow directly to the plenum. The weird symptom that made that diagnosis uncertain was the fact that the plenum would not just bleed air back out of the "tank hole" right away (or at all) by removing the bottle tank. It's not that weird, though. Most O-rings that are set in a groove are only there to keep air from going past them in a certain direction, so there is a "down-wind" side of the O-ring and groove that takes a beating -- especially a set screw O-ring. So the set screw O-ring near the piston has never in it's life had to keep air from going the other direction -- that is until now. So when removing the bottle tank, that set screw O-ring was being pushed to the "never-before-used" side of the O-ring and groove -- so it actually held air because it was using the shiny new(ish) side of it. You coaxed it into giving up it's very temporary appearance of being a good O-ring by removing the set screw, oiling it, and re-installing. THEN it showed its true colors -- bad O-ring.

You mentioned the word "washers" a couple of times (the color of them). I'm quite sure you meant to say O-rings. When talking about a regulator that has belleville spring-disk washers as a primary component of the assembly, the word "washers" means belleville washers. Say O-ring if you mean O-ring. It'll help on this forum. The O-rings that you checked for black vs green or red color -- don't worry about the color as it's not a definitive guarantee that the O-ring is an NBR70 hardness (softer) or NBR 90 hardness (harder). Sometimes they are both black -- just depends where they were sourced from.

I guess, since you've had the whole regulator body out of the rifle and inspected it, it would make sense to replace all of the regulator O-rings. You seem to be adept at this "tiny finicky irritating parts" thing.

Regarding using silicone GREASE to slop your newly-built regulator with -- I went through an FX AMP regulator rebuild on my FX Maverick a few months back. I had previoiusly rebuilt it using silicone GREASE and, Man, what a mess. It wasn't just the mess of it, but I really feel that grease just gets pushed out of the way by the O-rings it's passing through and the grease doesn't "wick" back to where it's needed. So I followed the advice of AGN member "hogkiller". He loves Mobil 1 motor oil for many airgun lube jobs -- and now I do to. I wanted an oil that was going to "creep or wick" back to the O-ring that tried to wipe it away. I happened to have a little Mobil 1 5w-30 in my garage and that is what I liberally slopped on every part of my regulator. I know this is kind of off-subject, but I just want to spare you the yucky grease experience and give you my "theory" about why I don't use grease anymore.

As far as sourcing FX AMP regulator parts, I don't really know these days since I've not needed any new parts for a long time other than O-rings that I already got every one of that was listed on my schematic parts list from a web site called "o-rings-and-more". They don't sell them by ones and twos, they sell you a bag of a given O-ring, but I don't regret buying a lifetime supply of O-rings for my Maverick.

stovepipe

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TOP 5 SHOOTERS IN THE PRO CLASSIFICATION​

HW/Weihrauch Is this a Rowan trigger for the record trigger unit?

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TOP 5 SHOOTERS IN THE PRO CLASSIFICATION