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FX  What causes regulator to be same pressure as the rest of the air tube?

S
etothen said:
It is an AMP regulator as far as I can tell, hex head not screw driver, looks internally exactly as expected given the AoA FX AMP rebuild video.

The reg pressure was set at 107-109 'ish, then I turned the set screw an eight of a turn and the plenum reg pressure jumped to 150 which was the bottle pressure at the time. So I pulled the bottle off and dry fired to drop the plenum pressure to zero and reinstalled the bottle and the plenum pressure jumped back to the bottle pressure. So I did this a couple more times as a kind of control alt delete for regs and the behavior continued.

So next I put the bottle on and hooked it up to the pump (unrelated side note below on this btw) and the plenum pressure followed the bottle pressure up to 180 before I stopped the pump, removed the bottle and dry fired until the plenum was completely empty.

Then I tried screwing the reg probe in until I just felt it touch something, about two and a half turns and I attached the bottle again and the plenum reg pressure again showed the same value as the bottle. So it looked like the plenum reg was stuck open, but it did still hold pressure when I took the bottle off. I was surprised that it looked open, but only one way?

So I gave in, went to the AoA site video on the M2 reg rebuild and removed the reg, inspected the piston, surfaces and O rings and found that everything looked lie it should with the notable exception of a lack of grease. I lubed the reg parts up, but only with silicone oil and then and reassembled it as per the instructions with the one problem being that I tracked the washers but I did not see any difference in color in the last two counter to the instructions in the Reg breakdown video describing them as Black, they were the same color as the rest of the washers?

When I attached the bottle the plenum pressure still followed the bottle pressure. But now when I detached the bottle the plenum pressure dropped to zero so I hade at least changed that. So I ordered some thick silicone grease and a new set of O rings. I suspect that they were the original rings and that they had not been adjusted or lubricated with grease in a very long time and doing anything to them made them give up.

So I have experience building/rebuilding and maintaining scientific equipment including gas chromatographs (I am atheoretical/computational climate physicist that has had enough practical experience with machinery that I am quite handy on the experimental side) and in my experience the surfaces I inspected looked like they were in excellent condition, the washers looked and acted exactly as expected and I suspect that the O rings are the likely suspects so I will carefully pull it apart, grease it liberally, install new O rings (although I am not looking forward to that one inside the block even though I have the perfect flat spade shaped dental probe that I bent into just the right shape to get into that 'ringland' so here's to hoping) and see what happens.

If it works, great, if not, well it is only 11 dollars wasted on the new O rings and I will re-asses then. I would point out that finding AMP regulators to replace or rebuild it has proven problematic and if I cant figure out the sourcing problem I may end up wit a Huma regulator for that reason. If you know where to find AMP regs and or rebuild kits let me know.

I hope I properly, sequentially and adequately addressed your questions with my lengthy diatribe about my regulator problems and would love any information about what was happening and exactly where I blew it because there was an easyer fix I missed lol.

PS. It was probably replacing the pin O ring next to it's head wasn't it?

*I have just started this hobby again after a couple decades and am new to PCP's and have been shocked by the pressures these little instruments work at and further shocked that I could get a, so far, reliable pump for $150 that will regularly pump them up too 300+Bar.
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Hi etothen. Thanks for the info -- all good info. From what you have experienced, I'd say it's definitely the O-ring on the set screw that is closest to the piston that needs to be replaced that was allowing air from the tank to flow directly to the plenum. The weird symptom that made that diagnosis uncertain was the fact that the plenum would not just bleed air back out of the "tank hole" right away (or at all) by removing the bottle tank. It's not that weird, though. Most O-rings that are set in a groove are only there to keep air from going past them in a certain direction, so there is a "down-wind" side of the O-ring and groove that takes a beating -- especially a set screw O-ring. So the set screw O-ring near the piston has never in it's life had to keep air from going the other direction -- that is until now. So when removing the bottle tank, that set screw O-ring was being pushed to the "never-before-used" side of the O-ring and groove -- so it actually held air because it was using the shiny new(ish) side of it. You coaxed it into giving up it's very temporary appearance of being a good O-ring by removing the set screw, oiling it, and re-installing. THEN it showed its true colors -- bad O-ring.

You mentioned the word "washers" a couple of times (the color of them). I'm quite sure you meant to say O-rings. When talking about a regulator that has belleville spring-disk washers as a primary component of the assembly, the word "washers" means belleville washers. Say O-ring if you mean O-ring. It'll help on this forum. The O-rings that you checked for black vs green or red color -- don't worry about the color as it's not a definitive guarantee that the O-ring is an NBR70 hardness (softer) or NBR 90 hardness (harder). Sometimes they are both black -- just depends where they were sourced from.

I guess, since you've had the whole regulator body out of the rifle and inspected it, it would make sense to replace all of the regulator O-rings. You seem to be adept at this "tiny finicky irritating parts" thing.

Regarding using silicone GREASE to slop your newly-built regulator with -- I went through an FX AMP regulator rebuild on my FX Maverick a few months back. I had previoiusly rebuilt it using silicone GREASE and, Man, what a mess. It wasn't just the mess of it, but I really feel that grease just gets pushed out of the way by the O-rings it's passing through and the grease doesn't "wick" back to where it's needed. So I followed the advice of AGN member "hogkiller". He loves Mobil 1 motor oil for many airgun lube jobs -- and now I do to. I wanted an oil that was going to "creep or wick" back to the O-ring that tried to wipe it away. I happened to have a little Mobil 1 5w-30 in my garage and that is what I liberally slopped on every part of my regulator. I know this is kind of off-subject, but I just want to spare you the yucky grease experience and give you my "theory" about why I don't use grease anymore.

As far as sourcing FX AMP regulator parts, I don't really know these days since I've not needed any new parts for a long time other than O-rings that I already got every one of that was listed on my schematic parts list from a web site called "o-rings-and-more". They don't sell them by ones and twos, they sell you a bag of a given O-ring, but I don't regret buying a lifetime supply of O-rings for my Maverick.

stovepipe
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Head shot thread

ZekeZX10
Cantona256 said:
Great shot… judging distance at night with or without the red lights is hard. Even with the NV I use a red light mounted on the stock. Kinda cycling in between the two helps but I still miss sometime
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Cantona256 said:
Karma EQ .30
52gr Patriot Javelin
935fps

Finally got a chance to do some squirreling with the new girl.. I’ve got a 75y zero on it now so that’s the hold under, plus a little windage.

Went in behind one ear and out the other.View attachment 586431

View attachment 586436

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OUSTANDING! How are you liking the Karma EQ
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Stressing on Rifle Cases, here's a soft case that actually fits

ZekeZX10
I added the vid and pics so you could actually see it with rifles actually in it. Hope this is somewhat informative for someone.

I've only been shooting airguns for about 1-1/2 years now and first thing that irritated me almost immediately was the case that came with the rifle I bought wouldn't fit the rifle if I added a scope. I thought for $1500 (what I thought was a lot for a pellet gun at the time) the damn case it came with should fit the damn rifle with a scope.

Then I bought (used) a Daystate Pulsar which originally, I believe, was close to 2k and yet it doesn't fit with a scope, at least not the one I have with medium height rings...freaking irritating. So I did buy a hard case which is a great pain in the keister to get around with on the UTV, hell even loading up the Jeep with 2 hardcases for the bows and 2 hardcases for the guns it doesn't all fit in the back seat. Anyway, found a nice bag 43"length x 14"height x 4"deep. Fit's the Vulcan and Pulsar fine.

If I'm heading out on some ridiculously rough back country I'll use the hardcase but for most of my travels either to the range or my hunting spot, soft case it is.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DP32L88L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1


IMG_20250815_162302971.jpgIMG_20250815_162311584_HDR.jpg
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Found a deal on spinner target on Amazon

B
cahil_2 said:
I have several and they do not handle .22 rimfire. If I shoot them with 25 grain redesigns they bend up.
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This one is thicker and heavier than my last one. At 60yds, it only spins 2 revolutions with a hit on the small side with th a 25gr pellet. My last one worked great with .22cal/18gr pellets and spun like a top but was bending with the .25cal/25gr.
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Need Ideas - Portable Paper Target Stands

Raider03
Bramezy said:
Here’s idea 1. I’ll have to compute the actual cost but it’s not super cheap but is completely flat and will store away nicely.

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Some parts of these are plastic so they might not survive a direct hit, but maybe some plywood would enough ( or the blue material you're using in your prototype), otherwise the cost is less then $6 each. May need to add a brick to the base to make sure the wind doesn't knock them over.

12 Pack
https://share.google/Hm5SwiS0Lx6ydXDD9

6 pack, lower initial cost to try them out

Amazon.com: Hyuetrsa 6 pack Adjustable Pedestal Stand Holder for 8.5x11inch Heavy Duty Aluminum Sign Holder Pedestal Poster Sign Stand for Business Retail and Advertisement Menu Displayed (Black) : Office Products

Buy Hyuetrsa 6 pack Adjustable Pedestal Stand Holder for 8.5x11inch Heavy Duty Aluminum Sign Holder Pedestal Poster Sign Stand for Business Retail and Advertisement Menu Displayed (Black): Store Sign Holders - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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Just got my Airmarksman Ace slugs

Impact701
Raider03 said:
I wonder if the flat meplat would tear up the wound channel like a wadcutter. Has any one tested these in something like clay or ballistic gel?
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I was wondering the same thing ? So I shot a baseball sized potato at 30 yards, it popped just like when I hit one with a hollow point.
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