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Caveat Emptor

I guess I'm most upset about the $47 "broker fee"! It seems it was quite a bit less before, but I was also buying higher priced items so the ratio was not as bad as the one on this last purchase. Now the "accountant" in me will be doing more "total cost analysis" between different purchase options to make my retirement funds go as far as they can!!!
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RTI  RTI p3 question

The plenums will give you more power instantly without changing any of your settings in your prior tune. If you liked your tune you will need to lower your regulator pressure. Reality is where the plenums help most is for the guys running the fixed regulator or the regulators that are running almost maxed out for really heavy projectiles.

The P3 has a really easy hammer spring and value. It’s closer to the P2 than the Mora. Get your regulator set and then set your hammer to have the valve open. Once it opens and closes that’s it. It’s already as efficient as it will get. Mora allows for some dwell time, P3 doesn’t.
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If the the HPA passes and suppressors are removed from the NFA…

Airgun moderators have always fallen into a "grey area" as there is no exact verbiage written for or against them. AGN does not permit the sale of or the discussion of fabrication of any NFA items. If in the future a silencer or airgun moderator is withdrawn from the NFA/regulatory list, we may consider changing the sites rules.

Air Venturi  Avenger X effectively unregulated

After less than an hour the regulator and tank pressure are the same.
This behavior is generally caused by degradation of the regulator O-rings. They progressively harden and eventually fail to seal properly, and the reservoir air slowly migrates through directly to the plenum.

Perhaps worth noting that although it is a form of pressure creep, it is different from what is generally referred to as "regulator creep" which is something chiefly caused by surface imperfections in the valve seat.

If you're interested, there are a few links in my profile dealing with regulator issues and how to address them.

PCP Rifle  SOLD Barra 250z. 25 with some upgrades

Good condition used not abused Getting rid of a few of my guns to fund another $400 shipped includes everything other than scope .shipped in original box with fill probe additional mag o rings. Has m lock bipod upgraded trigger ,slug power kit, different grip and lightweight stock. Its shooting 30 grain aea or franco slugs at 915fps with Amazing Accuracy past 130 yards. Around 2 mags per fill.
Video of me plinking with it.

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DNT Zulus LRF - does it compensate for CANT in addition to pitch?

Per my question above, does the DNT Zulus LRF compensate for CANT if my gun is not vertical. This question applies to 312 and 520 models.

I know that it does for angles up and down.

Thanks.
I don't think it will real time correct for cant yet but they could program for it. I know you can toggle a readout on the display to show you how bad and which way you are rolling but it's up to you to correct..... Which I assume you've found.

Any Moderator quick release adapters? (i.e. Similar to Donny QD - Quick Disconnect)

Yes
I emailed HUMA about these a while ago asking about how precise the mounting system is.
My question concerned putting a front sight on a moderator and I wanted to know if alignment would be accurate enough to remove & replace the mod as needed.
The fine folks at HUMA thought it might work but had never tried.

I may get around to trying this some day
Has anyone else done so?

just my too sents
Edward
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Umarex  Gauntlet SL30 tuning

The upgrades are worth it and after you don't end up spending that much money. $500 for the gun $150 for 700cc bottle $150 for reg $200 tac kit and $100 barrel work which includes opening up the barrel port. That's $1100 and that set up is rivaling $1800 guns and beating out some. From there you could still add a TJ barrel which would be another $300 but still only puts you at $1400 and if velocity is what your looking for that barrel in 30 in or longer would give you that with great accuracyand you would be smoking a lot of them high end guns.

The upgrades are worth it and after you don't end up spending that much money. $500 for the gun $150 for 700cc bottle $150 for reg $200 tac kit and $100 barrel work which includes opening up the barrel port. That's $1100 and that set up is rivaling $1800 guns and beating out some. From there you could still add a TJ barrel which would be another $300 but still only puts you at $1400 and if velocity is what your looking for that barrel in 30 in or longer would give you that with great accuracyand you would be smoking a lot of them high end guns.
Also, Terminator Industries has a serious tactical and tune kit specifically developed for the Gauntlet SL30!! The kit costs $1,549.00. It called the Terminator Edition. Here is the link: https://terminadorindustries.com/pr...h-mnqq43wRmrVkI9uCu-3T-gkStqOZhufbVpevIQIJorX
Plenty of options for the GSL30. Can be a cheap and accurate air rifle or can be built to extreme.

📌If you own a Daystate Blackwolf HP TAC, life is already pretty good.

More power? Mine had too much and it was only with the medium spring. Yikes!
Yeah yours was a hammer. You might want to try to drop the reg and try the low power spring for pellets before you off load it. However I do think the 23” would be better for those needs.

Air Venturi  Avenger X effectively unregulated

I have had my Avenger X now for about a year and I don't think the regulator ever worked. Initially I thought the creep may get better as I was reading that it needs to "break in" or seat itself. Well, a year later my gun is effectively unregulated. After less than an hour the regulator and tank pressure are the same. Now for the interesting part, it does not seem to affect my point of impact at my usual 30 yard shooting. The gun still hits pretty accurately more or less the same place. I am planning to get my chrono set up to see if the velocity changes.

Lots of comments on Avenger X regulator creep on the forum. What would you guys recommend? Keep it as is or replace it or fix it?

Anybody shooting their regulated airgun effectively unregulated? Maybe I should just take it out and only charge to a somewhat lover PSI? I am more a hunter than target shooting so the decrease in shot count is not all that important to me as long as I can do better than one magazine..

I also should add that everything is stock settings. Never touched regulator or hammer. For the few min it works I would guess the factor setting is around 2600 on the regulator.

RTI  RTI Prophet 2 - Help Needed with Trigger Adjustment

@Bimhiq - I have the same problem with my P3! At the moment, it won't cock! I have tried everything including sending Rok pictures of the block along with videos of the action at work. So far, no one - including Rok - has figured out what is going on. I've tried adjusting the cocking rod as well as all the screws in the trigger group used for adjustment... it won't cock. Rok suggested that I send it in for someone to look at that is more knowledgeable than me (plenty out there!)

Dessicant

Not tech enough to copy links. In the PCP forum there's a thread, Moisture in PCP airguns. Page 2, post #35, explains things in good detail about compressed air moisture removal.
I'm by no means an expert and can only speak in layman's terms. When researching and getting into PCPs last year my take on dessicants was;
Silica beads are better at absorbing larger water molecules out of moving air as it passes around them. And moleculer seave works better at absorbing smaller molecules out of the still air around them.
There's a lot of information on moisture removal methods in old threads here, it just takes time to find and read it, and determine what applies best in your particular situation.
The post you reference is one of mine, so thanks - there are actually two that kind of go together, #34 and 35. Here is the direct link to #34: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/moisture-in-pcp-airguns.1321274/page-2#post-1839752

You are not quite right on your characterization of molecular sieve and silica beads - which is common - as is the misinterpretation of the chart shown in post #3 above . . .

Both forms of media will adsorb water vapor (which is individual water molecules evaporated in air) within their "operational window" equally well. Providing that neither type is saturated for the conditions at hand, molecular sieve will adsorb "more" water vapor out of a given air charge than silica gel will, in terms of the resulting relative humidity / dew point - which means that molecular sieve can get the air "drier" if both are working fully (not saturated).

When it comes to "liquid water" - meaning multiple water molecules bound together via hydrogen bonds, which for air that starts out with no liquid water in it (only vapor) can only happen once the dew point gets close to 100% somewhere in the volume of air at whatever pressure it is at (most likely adjacent to a wall for air under pressure) - neither works well. In fact neither plays well with liquid water, and the presence of it usually will result in a fracturing of the bead which can throw off abrasive dust (which is why it is good to prevent liquid water from getting to your media).

As for the chart in post #3 by @rgb1 , it is important to remember that we are dealing with air that has been compressed - the relative humidity of the ambient air that went into the compressor is almost completely irrelevant. That is because unless that ambient air has a RH of under 1% at normal room temperatures - which you won't find anywhere on earth, except maybe in Antarctica in the middle of winter (without adding any humidity) - the the air coming out of a compressor is going to be at 100% humidity regardless of if it was at 80% or 10% going into it (thus the water that vents out of the compressor - as the excess has condensed leaving only that which the air can continue to carry as a vapor). So the only part of that graph that is relevant to any filtering of compressed air - even in cases like mine, where I filter at ~100 psi before feeding my Shoebox compressor - is only at the far right hand side. What that says, contrary to what most think when looking at the whole graph, is that silica gel will hold more water than molecular sieve does - almost twice as much. Of course what I said above still applies - working molecular sieve can "dry" the air more than silica gel can. But silica gel can adsorb more total water vapor per gram of media than molecular sieve will.

The key to all of this is that the media can't be saturated, and honestly that is where silica gel as an advantage in that it is very easy to source indicating media with silica than with molecular sieve - plus it takes longer to get saturated as it can adsorb more vapor.

But silica gel will only dry air to an ambient dew point of about -45 degrees F, where molecular sieve will drive it down to about -70 or so. At 4500 psi at 70F or higher, there is not going to be any really noticeable difference between the two levels, but there will be a small amount of water vapor remaining with silica gel that could condense as temperatures drop below that level, and properly functioning molecular sieve would prevent that.

What is also true is that we are talking about a very small amount of potential difference in water vapor at these pressures - slow compressors that don't heat the air much (like the old Shoebox) can't pass much vapor as the air charge has cooled so much anyways. But fast ones like Yong Hengs will pass a lot more water vapor that will condense later as the air charge cools. So that factor has to be considered in your choice and sizing of desiccant filtration.

Personally, I find it easy to manage water vapor with the right use of desiccant filtration, so I see no reason not to do so. Like @6gun I use both types of media to feed my Shoebox, and probably would use both on the output of any other compressor if I had one that required me to filter there. The other great thing about silica gel is that it is easy to recharge over and over, and it visually lets you know when it is time to do so (doubly so in my case, as 100psi filter housings allow the use of polycarbonate so we can see the media without removal). This lets the molecular sieve that sees the air stream after the silica gel last much longer, as it does not hold as much water, typically can't be recharged at under 1000 degrees F, and is difficult to source with an indicator - meaning the only way to know if it is still working is to weigh the media, and once it has gained about 15% of its weight it is probably about time to replace it. And for clarity, that silica gel before the molecular sieve will be adsorbing probably close to 95% of the potential water vapor that the molecular sieve would see on its own (or more, depending on air charge temperature), so the impact on its usefull life is massive - 20 times longer for a given amount of media. That is why I use a huge 1.5 pound silica media filter of in front of a tiny 2 ounce molecular sieve filter (again, at only ~100 psi in my case). With that size ratio, both media types are working for me for multiple years before needing recharged or changed . . .

Best of luck in all your compressing efforts!

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