What caliber is right for me?

Hi,

Never owned a PCP air rifle before, just 4.5mm "springers". I would like to ask a few questions before I go ahead and pull the trigger (no pun intended, ha ha).

- What are the main differences between calibers? I understand that a .30 has more "power" than a .177, but how are the differences in regards to the gun itself?
- Does a .30 need more maintenance?
- Is it louder than a .177?
- Do you need to refill the reservoir more often on a .30 than a .177?
- Why would one pick a .30 over a .177? (besides the obvious reason of having more muzzle energy...). Maybe a .30 is more accurate due to the higher weight of the projectile? Maybe it isn't? 

You know, stuff like that. What caliber should I pick? I am not planning on hunting. Just plinking around.

Any input is appreciated. 

Thanks.

p.s. I am flip flopping back and forth between the FX INDY and FX INDEPENDENCE...
 
For additional information look in the comment section for different views. Specially the comment fromAirArmsHuntingSA
"1) No caliber is more accurate than another. The shape of the pellet will determine its accuracy rather than the size. That being said, the smaller calibers are more prone to manufacturing defects and damage in transit due to the thinner skirts - This will affect your accuracy.2) .22 cal uses LESS air than .177 - Check the shot counts for different PCP models, the .22 will give you more shots per charge. This obviously changes when you go really big, as in .303 or .45 cal 3) The trajectory on a .177 may be flatter originally, but larger calibers have higher Ballistic Coefficients, and will therefore retain their energy and velocity better. At 100m, the .177 will probably be traveling slower than the .22 4) If you're limited to 12 ft-lbs, there's absolutely no reason to get a .22! The whole point of larger calibers is more muzzle energy. If your muzzle energy is limited, go for the caliber that's going to give you better penetration (and cost you less!)"
 
Thank you.

That video answers a few of my questions, but not all of them. I am still trying to figure out, what the differences are from a "mechanical" stand point, when comparing two different caliber guns to each other. Kinda like comparing two 3 series BMW's to each other. One car has a "regular" engine in it, and the other one has a "high powered" engine in it. The one with the more powerful engine will use more gas, cost more in insurance/maintenance, will go through tires faster, will get you in trouble faster, and so on. (I am no car expert either but I took an educated guess here. I am sure you are getting my point...).

Maybe it doesn't work with airguns like it does with cars? I have to watch the video again in the am. Getting late here. : )

Thanks again.
 
The guns are made the same in all calibers. Things like regulators to increase shot to shot consistency can be added to any caliber rifle. So, the mechanics of any given gun at different calibers should be identical. As Tinsoldier said, "What are you going to use it for?" This will, more than anything else, determine what caliber you want.
 
chasdicapuaThe guns are made the same in all calibers. Things like regulators to increase shot to shot consistency can be added to any caliber rifle. So, the mechanics of any given gun at different calibers should be identical. As Tinsoldier said, "What are you going to use it for?" This will, more than anything else, determine what caliber you want.


This is kind of what I was looking for. Not just what different calibers are mostly used for, but also how each caliber changes a guns characteristics. From what you are saying, the guns are pretty much the "same" no matter what caliber!? (Staying within the model is of course)...

Thanks.
 
Tony.RFor plinking around I would go .22 cheaper ammo higher shot count really good allround caliber. For long range aka +100 yard I would probably go .25, less shot count, bit more pricey ammo, louder but better down range. Here is a good video on .25 vs .22

I will take a look at that. Thank you.

Edit: I am not worried about the price of the ammo. I can afford either one of them, but mainly because I am never ever shoot enough to make a real difference. :)
 
I don't know much about the different countries laws, so first off I'd suggest looking into that before doing anything else since you're talking about traveling with it. For instance, it is my understanding that in Canada you can't have any type of LDC or moderator (I may be wrong, but speaking with someone from Ontario last month this was his answer to my question) and in the UK, it's my understanding that you're limited to under 12 FPE without an FAC license which is going to restrict caliber choice. I don't know if a non-resident can even 1) legally shoot pests in England without going through a guide service, 2) get an FAC license without going through a guide service, or 3) even use your own air rifle. After all, what's the point of getting an air rifle if you can't use it.

Once you know if there are any limits on what you can use, then you can look at what your maximum distance is going to be. While getting a .25 or .30 caliber may be great if you plan on shooting 75 or 100 yard bench rest competitions, if your maximum shot is going to be 15-20 yards, most .177, .20 or .22 are going to work just fine. Note that if you do have a 12 lb limit that a .22 is going to have more of an arc that the .177 due to the heavier pellet which can make shooting through certain obstacles more difficult. Regardless of design or gadgets, the important part is being able to put the pellet where the pellet needs to go. This means creating a shooting system that incorporates the air rifle, optics, and pellet selection that best fits what you're looking for.

In terms of travel, there are several air rifles available that can be broken down into smaller units making it easier to transport in some situations. This may or may not be something to look at as each person has their own requirements.

One of the issues with PCP air rifles rarely talked about is the air itself. Unlike other types of air rifles, you'll need some sort of air supply in order to use the air rifle. Based on your style and how you want to do things, you may want to look at systems that have replaceable bottles or cylinders so you can carry several with you and swap them out when necessary or even one that has a built in pump. Or, you may want to choose one that is easy to fill with a hand pump (my understanding is that traveling with a hand pump is easier as when you travel with cylinders or bottles you'll have to empty them and then find a place to a place to fill them at your destination site). While certain pumps are easier to work than others, I can say first hand it is easier to fill an air rifle with a smaller cylinder and low PSI (65cc @ 2600 PSI) than a larger cylinder with a high PSI (215cc @ 3000 PSI). Personally, I prefer using carbon fiber tanks as I have over 10 PCPs and it just makes life easier for me when shooting at home. I am looking at traveling in the future with some of them and this does become a concern.

Additionally, other features you should look at include power adjustment, unregulated vs regulated, magazine, and cocking action.

Power adjustment comes in handy when you need low power for small game in confined spaces while turning it up gives you the ability to reach out and touch your target. Some air rifles have switches or dials that allow maximum, medium and then a minimum power while others have a knob you turn and can control the amount between maximum and minimum.

Regulators help with consistency with the amount of air used with each shot. The best way to think of this is that an unregulated gun is going to have a shot string that looks more like a bell curve whereas a regulator is going to look more like a polygraph without spikes. I highly recommend downloading Chairgun Pro and playing with it with different pellet weights and advertised velocities so you can see how the air rifle may perform.

For me, after the power plant, the major difference between gas ram/spring piston and PCP is the ability to have multiple shots. Not all PCPs offer this feature so it may be something to consider if you're going to be doing anything that may require a quick follow-up shot. Also, not all magazines are made equally. Some are very easy to use and sturdy while others are more complex and some of the most expenses pieces of plastic you'll ever buy.

Lastly, with cocking action you have two choices, bolt or side lever. Some bolts take a lot of force to pull back to cock the air rifle which can result in a double feed if you don't remove the magazine when you go to cock and seat the bolt home a second time, while others don't require as much. In my experience, it is common to have to break your check weld when using bolts although with the right setup, it isn't always necessary. With target shooting this isn't that big an issue but when hunting, it can be as it may have been difficult to get your optics on the animal the first time and if you raise up you'll run the risk of losing it. Cocking levers for me are much easier to use than bolts and can allow for constant check weld. This means when I miss the first shot or two or need to do a follow up shot, I can keep the animal in the optics while cycling another pellet into the barrel. However, based on design, the lever may be slightly above and behind the trigger (generally on full size air rifles), all the way at the back (common with bullpups) or even towards the front (as on the Galahad). Again, these slight differences may have you lean one way or the other as you don't have all of these options with spring/gas piston air rifles.

There are several other differences as well such as anti-double feed options, magazine storage, single shot trays, and cut/adjustability of stocks but again, none of this matters if you can't use the air rifle in the country you want to use it in.
 
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What a nice decision to be making! In addition to everything mentioned by the previous responders there is the question of how you fill the tank on the gun. The two rifles you mention have onboard pumps to top off the tank while shooting but I have no idea if they would be practical to fill the gun from empty to working pressure. Something else that hasn't been mentioned is the weight of the gun. If I recall, the Independence weighs 8 lbs without a scope(which it requires) and the Indy is even heavier.If you decide to use a hand pump to fill with, a gun with a smaller air reservoir will be easier to fill but will probably yield fewer shots per fill. A gun like the Benjamin Discovery or the Air arms S200 would be significantly lighter as well as easier to fill with a hand pump. .22 caliber would probably be the best choice for all around shooting-Less air usage and better pellet selection come to mind here.
Keep us posted on what you decide, it's almost as fun as shopping for myself, lol!
John
 
In the same boat here with trying to decide. I would also like to factor in the query, how far do the pellets fly. I've always shot .177 and typically, you don't have to worry about where they are coming down. I live in a suburban/rural area with large 5 acre plus lots. I like to shoot pest birds (starlings and sparrows) and squirrels. Did manage to shoot a skunk but that was with a .22 nitro piston. The .22 appears suited for my shooting, but I don't want to get one and have to be concerned about where the projectiles are falling and if they still have down range energy. Also, in looking a the rifles, are bullpups somewhat of a fad or are they here to stay?
 
"WCT_Editor"I don't know much about the different countries laws, so first off I'd suggest looking into that before doing anything else since you're talking about traveling with it. For instance, it is my understanding that in Canada you can't have any type of LDC or moderator (I may be wrong, but speaking with someone from Ontario last month this was his answer to my question) and in the UK, it's my understanding that you're limited to under 12 FPE without an FAC license which is going to restrict caliber choice. I don't know if a non-resident can even 1) legally shoot pests in England without going through a guide service, 2) get an FAC license without going through a guide service, or 3) even use your own air rifle. After all, what's the point of getting an air rifle if you can't use it.

Once you know if there are any limits on what you can use, then you can look at what your maximum distance is going to be. While getting a .25 or .30 caliber may be great if you plan on shooting 75 or 100 yard bench rest competitions, if your maximum shot is going to be 15-20 yards, most .177, .20 or .22 are going to work just fine. Note that if you do have a 12 lb limit that a .22 is going to have more of an arc that the .177 due to the heavier pellet which can make shooting through certain obstacles more difficult. Regardless of design or gadgets, the important part is being able to put the pellet where the pellet needs to go. This means creating a shooting system that incorporates the air rifle, optics, and pellet selection that best fits what you're looking for.

In terms of travel, there are several air rifles available that can be broken down into smaller units making it easier to transport in some situations. This may or may not be something to look at as each person has their own requirements.

One of the issues with PCP air rifles rarely talked about is the air itself. Unlike other types of air rifles, you'll need some sort of air supply in order to use the air rifle. Based on your style and how you want to do things, you may want to look at systems that have replaceable bottles or cylinders so you can carry several with you and swap them out when necessary or even one that has a built in pump. Or, you may want to choose one that is easy to fill with a hand pump (my understanding is that traveling with a hand pump is easier as when you travel with cylinders or bottles you'll have to empty them and then find a place to a place to fill them at your destination site). While certain pumps are easier to work than others, I can say first hand it is easier to fill an air rifle with a smaller cylinder and low PSI (65cc @ 2600 PSI) than a larger cylinder with a high PSI (215cc @ 3000 PSI). Personally, I prefer using carbon fiber tanks as I have over 10 PCPs and it just makes life easier for me when shooting at home. I am looking at traveling in the future with some of them and this does become a concern.

Additionally, other features you should look at include power adjustment, unregulated vs regulated, magazine, and cocking action.

Power adjustment comes in handy when you need low power for small game in confined spaces while turning it up gives you the ability to reach out and touch your target. Some air rifles have switches or dials that allow maximum, medium and then a minimum power while others have a knob you turn and can control the amount between maximum and minimum.

Regulators help with consistency with the amount of air used with each shot. The best way to think of this is that an unregulated gun is going to have a shot string that looks more like a bell curve whereas a regulator is going to look more like a polygraph without spikes. I highly recommend downloading Chairgun Pro and playing with it with different pellet weights and advertised velocities so you can see how the air rifle may perform.

For me, after the power plant, the major difference between gas ram/spring piston and PCP is the ability to have multiple shots. Not all PCPs offer this feature so it may be something to consider if you're going to be doing anything that may require a quick follow-up shot. Also, not all magazines are made equally. Some are very easy to use and sturdy while others are more complex and some of the most expenses pieces of plastic you'll ever buy.

Lastly, with cocking action you have two choices, bolt or side lever. Some bolts take a lot of force to pull back to cock the air rifle which can result in a double feed if you don't remove the magazine when you go to cock and seat the bolt home a second time, while others don't require as much. In my experience, it is common to have to break your check weld when using bolts although with the right setup, it isn't always necessary. With target shooting this isn't that big an issue but when hunting, it can be as it may have been difficult to get your optics on the animal the first time and if you raise up you'll run the risk of losing it. Cocking levers for me are much easier to use than bolts and can allow for constant check weld. This means when I miss the first shot or two or need to do a follow up shot, I can keep the animal in the optics while cycling another pellet into the barrel. However, based on design, the lever may be slightly above and behind the trigger (generally on full size air rifles), all the way at the back (common with bullpups) or even towards the front (as on the Galahad). Again, these slight differences may have you lean one way or the other as you don't have all of these options with spring/gas piston air rifles.

There are several other differences as well such as anti-double feed options, magazine storage, single shot trays, and cut/adjustability of stocks but again, none of this matters if you can't use the air rifle in the country you want to use it in.
I wish there was a way to quote certain parts of your post... Anyway.

- Good thinking about the different country laws. I am going to Greece, so I am good to go with any air rifle.
- I wish I knew what my maximum distance is going to be. I guess my "average" will be around 30 m, but of course I would like to keep the option of going way farther than that. 
- I am look at the FX Indy. Pretty "short" to begin with, so traveling should be no big deal.
- I hear you about the air supply. That is one of the reasons I like the FX Indy, or FX Independence for that matter. They have an build in pump. I really like that concept. I believe the FX Indy has a 20cc tank. Not sure about the PSI, I would have to look that up again. From what I read and saw on YouTube, the build in pump works great! However, even though this will be my first ever PCP air gun, I guarantee you it will not be my last. So getting a tank or compressor or both is a must... down the road that is. 
- Before I look at those features, I need to first understand what they even mean, ha ha. (Wait, I am seeing now that you are actually explaining what each feature does! That is awesome!).
- Now that you mention it, I saw a video about the FX Impact and it has all those features you mentioned. A regulator and power adjustment. I wonder if the INDY has that?
- I had no idea that there is such a software! Downloading it as we speak.
- I definitely want an air rifle with a magazine! The Indy has that!
- I am not sure what action the Indy has, I have to look that up. However, I have seen videos where people point out that the action is in the perfect position for keeping your eyes on the target.
- I am in the US now, so I nothing to worry about, ha ha. I will buy something based on being here. If for some reason it turns out that I cannot take my Air Rifle with me to Greece, I get anther one there or here...

Hey man, thanks for all the input!

Thanks,

Kmd
 
"JohnL57"What a nice decision to be making! In addition to everything mentioned by the previous responders there is the question of how you fill the tank on the gun. The two rifles you mention have onboard pumps to top off the tank while shooting but I have no idea if they would be practical to fill the gun from empty to working pressure. Something else that hasn't been mentioned is the weight of the gun. If I recall, the Independence weighs 8 lbs without a scope(which it requires) and the Indy is even heavier.If you decide to use a hand pump to fill with, a gun with a smaller air reservoir will be easier to fill but will probably yield fewer shots per fill. A gun like the Benjamin Discovery or the Air arms S200 would be significantly lighter as well as easier to fill with a hand pump. .22 caliber would probably be the best choice for all around shooting-Less air usage and better pellet selection come to mind here.
Keep us posted on what you decide, it's almost as fun as shopping for myself, lol!
John
I remember reading somewhere that filling the air reservoir with the build in pump form empty to full is not too bad. The air tank only holds 20cc or so. Here is what it ways on the AOA website, "The Indy is based on the new Hybrid Bullpup platform with the integration of the FX self-contained compression pump system. This charging unit allows the gun to be filled while in the field. A quick and easy 3-7 pumps (dependent on caliber) per shot is all that is required. The shooter can even take up to eight shots before recharging (two on the 30 caliber) from the small built in 22cc air reservoir. With the compact size of the Indy pumping is both smooth and easy the effort required does not increase with multiple strokes as in other guns."

If I remember correctly, the Benjamin Discovery is only a single shot, so out of the question for me. I like the Marauder though. Anyhow, thank you for all the input. I will keep you guys posted for sure!

Thanks,

Kmd
 
Kmd I would say the .22 caliber is the one you want. Reasonable cost, wide selection and the .22 makes more efficient use of air over the .177. caliber. For being non dependent on an separate air source the FX Indy and Independence fill your needs. From what I read both rifles can be very accurate out to the 50 yard mark. As one person said the only interesting rifles are accurate ones. I would say the only fun rifles are accurate ones. When you said your main activity would be plinking however I envision shooting dozens if not over 100 shots in a session. According to the FX information for every 7 shots you will have to give your rifle about 21 pumps to get it up to full pressure. I don't know if that is something you are willing to do. It seems to me you don't need an rifle with high foot pounds of energy fpe or power. A high shot count per fill would be a big advantage for plinking and an accurate rifle as mentioned before. The Indy and Independence both cost about $1800. If a rifle and air tank fill set-up or hand pump could be put together for about the same price with the features you require would you go that route. Bill
 
Kmd I was just looking at some other FX rifles that would require an extra air source but cost less than the Indy or Independence. I see three that might fit your needs. the first is the FX T12 400 it has an 400cc air tank that gets about 70 shots per fill, under 40" long. is has an moderator and weigh 6.5 lbs., bolt action and 12 shot magazine for $1095. The rifle has good performance features and you can shoot it a lot before having to fill. I don't like the looks of bottle gun but they do have advantages. The second rifle is the FX Whisper/Typhoon 12 its 44"'s long with a fully shrouded barrel to keep it 'Whisper' quiet. It has a 185cc air tube and gets about 30 shots per fill and has a straight pull back bolt to cock. This should be faster cocking than the typical bolt action and also uses a 12 shot magazine cost $915 for the synthetic ambidextrous stock. The last rifle which I like the best is the FX Cyclone it is only 5.73 lbs., 40"'s long and utilizes the simpler and cheaper to buy 8 shot magazine. it has a 185cc removable air cylinder making it easier to carry extras and do maintenance. It has the fast biathlon cocking level. It gets 30 shot per fill on high power but what really makes this rifle special is the three position power wheel to set at 14-24 or 32 fpe. This means you can set it at 14 fpe for plinking or at 32 fpe for long range target or hunting. This rifle cost the most at $1395 but that is $ 400 less than the stand alone rifles. With that you can get an hand pump but I would spend about $300 more and get an 4500 psi carbon fiber tank from AirTanksFor Sale The 97cu ft Great White tank will run about $777 or the 72 cu ft Tiger Shark will run a little less. With the above rifles mentioned you will get between 1500 to 2000 shots off the above two sizes of tank. The above setups will ending costing you the same or about $300 more than the Indy. I think the Cyclone with the three position power wheel will make a very versatile rifle and on the lower power setting will get you more shots per fill. Another thing to remember of the rifles I suggested even though they have different air cylinders sizes they all get about the same total shots for the air used. Good luck Bill
 
"kmd1984"
"WCT_Editor"Additionally, other features you should look at include power adjustment, unregulated vs regulated, magazine, and cocking action.

I wish there was a way to quote certain parts of your post... Anyway.


To quote only certain parts simply begin typing below the quoted material, then go back up & delete any unwanted material.
 
"Tony.R"For plinking around I would go .22 cheaper ammo higher shot count really good allround caliber. For long range aka +100 yard I would probably go .25, less shot count, bit more pricey ammo, louder but better down range. Here is a good video on .25 vs .22 (edited by fungun to remove video, see above for actual link)

Very good job Tony! Thanks for sharing, very informative and insightful. I know that it took a lot of hours to create not just the actual shooting, but the presentation planning and editing. Thanks for your hard work. It is greatly appreciated. Some positive feedback is well deserved for your contribution!
 
Personally, I don't like the bullpup design, preferring an air rifle slightly larger. If you want a feel that will be closer to the springers you're familiar with, take a look at the Air Arms S410 TDK, and Brocock Compatto. These are both medium sized air rifles that feel like full size. You can also look at the P-Mod (Benjamin Marauder Pistol). I don't care for the included stock with it but when you upgrade to an AR style stock (it's an option now or you can go with a kit from R Arms Innovations) it turns the pistol into a great compact gun for the price. 

If you want to go full rifle, I really like the Daystate Regal XL as it is very compact. Just remember that it doesn't have power adjustment and while it doesn't come with a regulator, it doesn't need one due to the slingshot hammer system. Another one to look at in this category would be the Air Arms S510. Unlike other models you can "change" it into another style just by swapping out the stock. I've yet to shoot the Weihrauch HW 100, but it has a ton of great reviews. In terms of upfront price, it's hard to beat the Benjamin Marauders and if you like to tinker to get the most out of an air rifle, they are much more friendly to user upgrades than other models.

Now, if you want to keep the bullpup feel/look aside from the FX you also have the Air Arms Galahad and Daystate Pulsar. The Galahad has the cocking lever located on the forend of air rifle and it can be changed from the left or right, based on the shooter's needs. While you'll hear statements that it can be regulated or unregulated, my understanding from Air Arms is that the US Spec (over 12ftlb) will only be available as non-regulated. If you're interested in going with an electronic style air rifle look at the Pulsar.