TX200 groups and trigger

I took a look at the Rowan adjustable blade. It looks like a good option. Having the wider blade might provide a lighter feeling trigger. Thanks for the tip.

I was also surprised at the behavior of the trigger on my TX. If second stage engagement is too small, you can feel a series of movements as the sear releases. It is almost as if the sear edges have been rounded slightly so that the sear releases in stages instead of all at once. I have to set enough engagement to avoid this problem. I might tear it down this winter and make sure the sear edges are dead sharp. I guess I expected it to be like the trigger on my Daystate, which is super crisp. Maybe a springer can never be that good, due to the higher forces involved. The way it is adjusted now the gun is shootable. But with springers as fussy as they are, you need all the help you can get.

The Vortek kit continues to smooth out as I shoot the gun, and definitely makes for a more pleasant gun to cock and shoot. There is no spring twang, vibrations are eliminated, and recoil is less harsh, making for a gun that is a little easier to shoot accurately. I think the biggest improvement I have seen in the accuracy department is that fliers are greatly reduced. My best groups with the kit are only a little better than my best groups with the stock gun, but I no longer get the really bad groups I sometimes got before the kit was installed.

Chuck

Steve, what you are describing is exactly what I am experiencing in my TX trigger. Did you repair or replace the damaged sear components? If replaced, where did you obtain the new parts? I plan to tear the trigger down this winter to get this resolved. If I don't see obvious chipping, I will probably first try to restore sharp edges on the two sear levers. It sounds like the Rowan blade is a must have for this gun.

Chuck

Thanks Steve. I'll dig into it this winter. After hunting season.

I probably should have gone back to the dealer, but it is a little late now since I bought the gun some years ago. The pivot pins are 3 mm, and as I recall I had to shim the hole in the trigger blade using 0.0015 shim stock to obtain a consistent let off. I wanted to press in a machined bushing, but there wasn't enough material in the trigger blade to allow for this. My other thought was to ream the housing and blade for a 1/8" pin, but the shim idea seemed to work so I left it at that.

I am not sure how far into the trigger mechanism I was able to get the first time around. I may have only removed the blade and lower lever. This time I will tear it completely down and try to identify and correct whatever is causing the erratic behavior when second stage engagement is set low enough for what should be a light, crisp let off. Since there seems to be interest in the topic, I will report back what I find.

​Actually, since this is going to be a winter project and I still have access to some basic machine tools, I was thinking about making a new adjustable blade with a reduced distance from pivot to the second stage screw. That should reduce second stage pull weight while still allowing enough first stage tension to permit the trigger to reset properly after an aborted release. I just need to do some calculations to make sure I don't take it to the point where it is hard to detect the transition from first to second stage. I have an Anschutz rifle with a trigger like that and had to adjust it to have more creep than I would like to be able to reliably detect that transition.

​Chuck