SWFA SS-Tac bubble level

I have a couple of these and I no longer use them. Nice quality but there are no lines on the glass which help determine the center for the bubble.

i prefer the vortex levels - I have a few of the regular and also the "low profile" version. If your eyesight is good, get the low profile - thin and small. If you need bifocals get the regular size . Also, the glycerin liquid in the vortex is more green than yellow which make them easier to see.

I also have the vortex scope level and I will say that since adding a scope level my accuracy at different ranges has improved a lot.

I don't like the ones which attach to the scope. I prefer this one: 

https://www.amazon.com/Higoo-Bubble-Level-Picatinny-Waver/dp/B01F76QNVQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1492344023&sr=1-9&keywords=scope+level

They make them for both Picatinny and 11 mm mounting styles. At less than $10 on Amazon, they're a bargain. One more thing.

I spent good money buying a UTG scope with a built in level. Sure sounded good (I already owned the same scope without one). Once I got it, I didn't like it! The level fills up the field of view more than it should, which is the real reason I went back to the old scope without the level. The another is (assuming the internal level is correct), unless you know the scope is mounted correctly, you can still have too much cant. Well it turns out, there was a very slight difference in the internal level vs. the external one (actually 3 different external ones). The ramifications should be obvious. I did get my money back from the retailer, including the return postage.

I have the SWFA SS bubble level.
Works for me just fine.

I got 2 with the last Black Friday sale and I like them.

To me bubble levels are not accurate. Trying to determine if the bubble is centered is a pain.. Wish they made a miniature of a degree indicator with a simple weighted needle that would attach to the rail. I believe it would be much more accurate than a bubble..

A bubble level that is mounted on the scope doesn't need to be precise because you adjust it to read level when the reticle is level (I use a plumb line set at 25 yards to line up my reticle and then center the bubble).

The bubble levels that mount to your scope rail need to be precise as does the rail itself. That's why I went for a scope level.

Trying to determine if the bubble is centered is a pain

Click to expand...

Instead of trying to figure out if the bubble is centered, I set mine up so that one side of the bubble "just touches" one of the lines of the level when I have a good cheek weld.

I have used the plumb line method to level as well, but you have to make sure that you track the elevation up and down to make sure it stays level. That, and also be sure to do a box text.