I cant seem to find the answer to my question... Any suggestions where to look would be appreciated... thanks
Sun Optics Scope rings torque
- Thread starter tonyv138
- Start date
I don't recall anymore what the torque recommendation for their rings are but if you have their adjustable rings then I would suggest you throw away the scope ring screws and replace them with either a decent set of cap or button head screws and the ones that come with them are bad, it seems that the Chinese manfufacturer/suppliers of those screws swage the allen hole in the head of the screw too large, if your allen key or tool doesn't start to strip when tightening they most likely will when trying to back them out. The allen hole in the head of the screw isn't deep enough to have enough surface to grab and the holes too big so they strip very easily. Again these are the adjustable ones that B-Square used to offer and I haven't tried any of their other rings
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Not sure what Sun recommends but I do all my caps at 16 inch pounds and mounts are 22 inch pounds plus I pay attention to how it feels and it’s served me well for many years.
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Thank you. This stripping is what i discovered today. I tightened the original screws to 10 in/lb and they began to give. I guess a trip to get sme replacements is in order. I want to set them to 15in/lb on my 15ft/lb R1
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Pretty weak if it started stripping at 10 inch pounds, I stripped a cap screw once but my wheeler was set at 32 inch pounds and I wasn’t paying attention, a lot of scope caps screws say 18 inch pounds and scope mount screws are 25 inch pounds but unless it’s a high end scope mount I use the 16” and 22” as a starting point and just the feel of how it’s tightening up also helps, it’s like having everything tightened up and then giving it that last little snug down and feeling the threads give out and then telling yourself why did I do that I should of just left it alone.....We’ve all done it hahaha..
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I think Imold hit the nail on the head, I think the general rule of thumb is rings will usually tighten with 15-20 inch pounts and the base mount screws somewhere in the 25 to 30inch lb range, of course this can vary from one type of mount to the other.
As far as the Sun Optics adjustable mounts go I like the mounts for the most part its just unfortunate that they choose to use such chinsy screws.
For their airgun line of rings I used for the rings a 4mmx8mm metric button socket machine screw, I also replaced the base mount screws with M4-0.7x16mm socket(cap head style) and I also replaced the internal grub screws that interact with the gimbles(is it is the adjustable ones) with 4mmx10mm metric socket head set screws.
Two of these you will need to modify a bit, if you go with the button head then you will need to grind/mill down the outer edge of the head as it is a hair to wide for the recessed hole in the ring and it doesn't take much to get them to fit. For me I went with the button head as I liked the more flush look of that screw compared to the cap head which would stick out, if it doesn't matter to you then go with the cap head as it should fit fine.
The other is the gimble set screw, if you choose to replace them then you will need to grind the end to a point so the gimble can pivot on them. I found if while adjusting these screws that if you happend to have the gimbles move over to one side rather than more in the middle then it is possible for a set screw to be left with only a couple threads to grip in the base and be very easy to strip those aluminum threads with a steel screw, with a longer set screw that becomes less of an issue.
I realize this all sounds like a lot fiddling around for a set of rings but once you get past these issues they are a decent set of rings, not sure I would take them out banging around the woods hunting as I think a few good bumps could knock them out of alignment but for light duty backyard plinking and benchrest shooting and things of that sort they are fine.
As far as the Sun Optics adjustable mounts go I like the mounts for the most part its just unfortunate that they choose to use such chinsy screws.
For their airgun line of rings I used for the rings a 4mmx8mm metric button socket machine screw, I also replaced the base mount screws with M4-0.7x16mm socket(cap head style) and I also replaced the internal grub screws that interact with the gimbles(is it is the adjustable ones) with 4mmx10mm metric socket head set screws.
Two of these you will need to modify a bit, if you go with the button head then you will need to grind/mill down the outer edge of the head as it is a hair to wide for the recessed hole in the ring and it doesn't take much to get them to fit. For me I went with the button head as I liked the more flush look of that screw compared to the cap head which would stick out, if it doesn't matter to you then go with the cap head as it should fit fine.
The other is the gimble set screw, if you choose to replace them then you will need to grind the end to a point so the gimble can pivot on them. I found if while adjusting these screws that if you happend to have the gimbles move over to one side rather than more in the middle then it is possible for a set screw to be left with only a couple threads to grip in the base and be very easy to strip those aluminum threads with a steel screw, with a longer set screw that becomes less of an issue.
I realize this all sounds like a lot fiddling around for a set of rings but once you get past these issues they are a decent set of rings, not sure I would take them out banging around the woods hunting as I think a few good bumps could knock them out of alignment but for light duty backyard plinking and benchrest shooting and things of that sort they are fine.
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