Springer Oil Recommendation

You shouldn't put pellgun oil into a springer-it will combust or 'diesel' when compressed. Most modern springers require little or no lube in the chamber. if you do lube, use silicone chamber oil, just a few drops every 1000 or so shots. I personally only use chamber lube if my gun has the old school leather piston seal. If your gun 'honks' when you cock it, you need to lube.
Pellgun oil is great for multi-pump guns and Co2.
 
crosman2016,

In 'modern' air guns, the cylinder/compression chamber should be essentially dry - mine run with moly/graphite powder burnished onto the cylinder/compression chamber, and on the seal. The piston is dry moly coated, with the tiniest wipes of 60% moly grease on any bearing surfaces.

A very small amount of Krytox GPL105 is wiped around the seal.

For my air guns that have leather piston seals, the seals are soaked in Krytox 105 oil.

Have fun & a good Sunday :)

Best regards

Russ
 
Don't know about "pumpers" but I stopped using any diesel prone lubes based on "dinosaur oil extracts" (petroleum based lubes) in my HW springers a couple years ago! I've been using only non-dieseling space station lubes called Dupont Krytox GPL205 for ALL lubing of my springers.

As far as "one drop through the transfer port goes", that's a throwback to the days of leather piston seals when the low powered (compared to modern springers) leather seals needed oil to function properly. Matter of fact, the famous Cardew experiments "proved" that the guns of that era got a major portion of their velocity from the dieseling oil in the seal. This "burnt off oil" needed to be replaced occasionally hence the advice to add a drop of oil every tin of pellets. As a side note........before using Krytox I shot my R9 with completely dry piston, receiver tube, and piston seal using only dry powdered graphite as a piston lube. Worked a treat and contrary to Cardew's experiments I only lost 10fps (.177 Crosman Premier from 910fps to 900fps) with my oring sealed piston cap. There was indeed about a 1% drop in velocity dry graphite vs molly paste but with my synthetic sealed R9 there was very little velocity gain when using "dinosaur based lubes mixed with molly"!

Since modern springers have synthetic piston seals and there is no need to keep them wet with oil. When I first bough a springer from Beeman decades ago the owners manual advised the "oil through the transfer port" lubing procedure. Beeman even sold some sort of concoction called "Compression Chamber Lube" for that purpose, however years later Beeman stopped selling the "Compression Chamber Lube" all together. The owners manual was changed to with a warning that "the warranty was void on guns damaged by excessive lubrication" (a rough paraphrase). Even when Beeman advised the use of "Compression Chamber Lube" the recommended procedure was a drop through the transfer port only when the piston seal honked with cocking. Not soon after these owner manual warnings Beeman stopped selling "Compression Chamber Lube" all together!

For my R9 and HW95 I completely degrease the internals and then relube everything sparingly with Krytox GPL205, then I don't mess with the internals at all unless there is some maintenance work to be done. I do have to admit however that I break down my springers once a year during the winter months for an inspection and then a relube!

If the shooter is unable (or unwilling) to break down his springer (voids the warranty) for a proper strip and relube, then "a drop of oil through the transfer port if the seal honks when cocking" is the only solution.
 
"A very small amount of Krytox GPL105 is wiped around the seal.
For my air guns that have leather piston seals, the seals are soaked in Krytox 105 oil."
The Krytox GPL105 oil is also good that I use it for cocking lever linkages that can't be easily disassembled!
I'm sure that it would also be great for "old school through the transfer port lubing" since it doesn't diesel, however I've found from personal experience that Krytox will leach "petro lubes" from surfaces, then mix with the Krytox to start dieseling. The Krytox won't diesel but the oil that's mixed with it will diesel so I really wonder how effective it would be to add Krytox directly to surfaces already lubed with "dinosaur butter"!
 
nced,

Yup - I always follow DuPont's advice about not mixing other lubes with Krytox, and I totally de-grease the internals before lubing up with Krytox.

I have found Krytox lubes to be superb for use in spring rifles & pistols - the only downside is that they are scalpingly priced in the UK - 30 mL of GPL105 & 4oz of GPL205 cost me ca. 160 USD.

Have fun & a good weekend :)

Best regards

Russ
 
My Diana 34 has been a little rough cocking lately. I checked velocity and it was around 690-700fps. This is a little lower than normal. I have had a recurring problem with this gun with galling in the upper rear part of the compression tube due to friction from the piston when cocking. This is what causes the roughness when cocking. The remedy has been to tear the gun down, sand, polish and lube the affected areas with moly which I did just today. I lube the rear part of the compression tube, the piston and the side of the piston seal. The cocking is now smooth as butter again and I am getting combustion again which has increased the velocity back to 730fps. There is no detonation. It is not loud and there is no smoke pouring out of the barrel. I do get the faint smell of combustion that I was getting before the lube became insufficient. There was no damage or carbon buildup on the piston seal. With 7000 pellets through this gun, I have done this procedure four times now. Is there supposed to be combustion? I believe so. According to Umarex, it is normal as long as you don't over lube and cause detonation which can be damaging.
 
4 ounces of GPL205 is 160USD....I agree.........."scalpingly priced"! The last tube of the stuff I bought in the US cost me about $144 plus shipping from this vendor but I don't know what that would cost in the UK.....
http://store.tmcindustries.com/Krytox-GPL-205-Grease-8-oz-tube_p_19.html



There is an Euro version of Krytox called Ultimox 226 and it's cheaper in the the US than Krytox, however I personally prefer the "plain 205" version of Krytox without the "wear/corrosion additive" so I spend the extra coin for the Krytox.......
http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Ultimox-226-Perfluoropolyether-PFPE-PTFE-Grease-Krytox-20-g.aspx
Perhaps the Euro version Ultimox is available cheaper in the UK. 

The great thing about Krytox is that very vittle is needed and it doesn't "outgas" and get thicker with time like the petro based molly paste I used for years.
 
It can even be found at Amazon and shipping is free if you order 2ox or more.......
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Krytox-GPL205-Grease-Additives/dp/B00NRPXDOK

There are other online vendors and it can even be found on Ebay, however it can be more costly depending on the price and shipping charges of the vendor......
http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=krytox+gpl+205&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=&rmvSB=true

In case you aren't aware of the Krytox "number code"......
First digit..............1xx=oil and 2xx=grease
Second digit.........Additive, x0x=none and x2x=wear/corrosion inhibitor + other additives such as x1x=molybdenum disulfide
Third digit............ISO grade of oil, xx5=150 and xx6=220 (I've used both xx5 and xx6 and prefer xx5 but either is fine}

Perhaps some useful info.......
http://store.tmcindustries.com/assets/images/pdf%20files/TDS%20-%20Chemours%20Krytox%20GPL%20Series.pdf
http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en_US/assets/downloads/krytox_gpl_106_206_216_226_K20067.pdf