The first frame of the trigger adjustment video in mcoulter's post, shows the 3 pins that must be pushed out to remove the entire trigger assembly. First push out the pin holding the trigger blade/rocker itself, then slowly lift that part out of the block. Next push out the middle pin. This middle pin is just used as a stop, so it doesn't really hold anything in place. The next pin, far right in the video pic, will release the hammer/sear piece. Pay attention to how the hammer/sear piece comes out so it can be put back in the same way. Those three pins and two trigger pieces are all there is to this trigger assembly.
Clean the hammer/sear piece and apply a combination lube of approximately 50% moly and 50% light synthetic grease to the areas where it looks like there is metal to metal contact. It is fairly obvious if you look closely. I experimented with different lubes and mixes and personally prefer a mixture of about 1/3 moly and 2/3 light synthetic grease. This mixture offers a smoother trigger action, but requires the trigger assembly be removed, cleaned and lubed more often. Also place the same lube mixture on the semi-circle cut-out section of the trigger blade/rocker. Place a small amount of grease in the holes where the trigger blade/rocker and hammer/sear pivots. Apply a thin amount of grease to the area on the trigger blade/rocker where the safety catch makes contact. Also a very sparse amount of grease where the spring makes contact. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. It can be a little tricky to get the hammer/sear back in place. One time I will fiddle with it for several minutes before it lines for the pin to go through, the next time it almost falls in place, so patience is a must. After assembly, do not be alarmed if the first time or two of trying to cock the rifle, the sear does not catch. After a couple of attempts it will catch and the trigger action will be much improved. If you are even moderately mechanically inclined, this trigger assembly should be no problem to work on. You will know when it is time to clean and lube the trigger again as it will tend to become catchy and cruder feeling, maybe even start to blow through the first stage entirely and firing prematurely. This is a sign things are getting dirty in there.
I do not believe this trigger design is meant to automatically return back to the set point if released from the first stage. Between my brother and myself we own three FX rifles with this type trigger and all 3 worked the same regarding the first stage return - meaning none of the triggers ever did return after being pulled through the first stage and then released. But this is OK once you know that is how it works. If I pull the trigger through the first stage and decide not to take the shot, I manually just push the trigger back to the original set point. After you shoot the rifle enough, it becomes second nature.
I also have read concerns about the FX triggers and from my own experience I cannot relate to any of it. I have owned and do own many PCP air rifles, from Marauders to FX, to Daystate Airwolfe MCT, and I can say with absolute certainty, when lubed and adjusted properly the trigger in my FX Royale is equal to or better than any trigger I have ever operated in ANY air rifle. And I have shot many rifles of different brands while attending FT competitions.
