raw 500 mk11

RAW sets up every rifle for optimum accuracy, but for those who want a power wheel there's already one at the rear end of the action. There's even a channel cut into the stock to access it. 
Most of the people who buy RAW buy it for its consistency in velocity and accuracy. When you receive a RAW rifle from the factory it comes tuned by the best in the world. 

chasdicapua/

RAW exposes their hammer spring adjuster. You can use that to turn up the power.

Buy the BM(comes with thimble),order which other stock u would like!

What do you want the rifle for? If you want it for BR shooting, go with the standard BM stock, want a hunting rifle get the LTR stock.

"aa_limited"the type of shooting i do is prone position for accuracy and groupings.
i do not do any formal benchrest compations

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Then the LRT stock and maybe add a bi-pod

aa_limited,

Since it is a dead calm day here, I'd be happy to answer that for you, and give you a few more hints on the poly barrel from RAW. I've been off working on another accuracy experiment with my gun, so it wasn't sighted in for "normal" pellets at 25 meters. I had to start from scratch with sighting back in JSB 13.4s on target #3. By the initial POI (highest) with my first 13.4, you ought to be able to guess what I was playing with I walked the 13.4s back down into the center of the target then shot 10 JSB 13.4s on #4. I added 1/8 MOA up then shot 10 13.4s on #5. I then added another 1/8 MOA up figuring I would be back on center.

Big hint #1 : I was not sorting pellets for this. These were pulled straight from the tin and just lubed. No weight sorting and no head size sorting up front. I know I could coax better accuracy out of the 10.3s, 8.4s, and 7s with a sort. I had the AZ air stripper / flip compensator on the gun for this test as it is more accurate than my moderator or naked barrel.

I started on the right of the paper on target #10 with 10 JSB 13.4s. They all went through the same hole (like 4 and 5). Big hint #2 is on the right of the target (my fps). I then moved to #9 and shot 10 JSB 10.3's, #8 is 10 AA 10.3s, #7 is 10 JSB 8.4s, #6 is 10 JSB 7.8s, #11 is 10 JSB 7.3s.



Big hint #3 is the 13's aren't the most accurate because of their weight. They are the most accurate because of their average head size which is .453 on average.

I am shooting the 13.4s in my poly at just under 18 fpe to get those single pellet hole groups. I did not adjust the power up or down for the other pellets. My rifle is shooting an extreme spread of 5fps over 10 shots, so you are seeing the speed, poi, and group size changes as a result of the head size and weight. The 7.8's shot really well, but they had an advantage over the other pellets - and you should be able to tell what that is. I'm betting I could get a single pellet hole out of 10 shots of the 7.8s - just like the 13.4s - by slowing them down. I'm guessing the 10 7.3s were a bit more open than the 7.8s due to speed. They should have shot closer to the 7.8s.

So now, I've told you my barrel length, lube, fps, what works best on end of barrel, and given you a really big hint (basically the answer) on the final piece to get serious accuracy from the RAW poly with other pellets. I'll take a +1 on accuracy for all that homework and sharing the info.

I'll give anyone a +1 if you are the first to tell everyone why the 8.7s shot the worst from my barrel. Another +1 if someone gives me the exact number

To answer about the barracudas, don't bother if you are chasing best accuracy from this barrel. I pitched my tin.

By the way, here is the results of the experiment. I was playing around with the 'boat tailed' H&N 21g .177 piledriver. This was about as good as I could get 10 shots of H&N piledriver vs my reference 10 shots of JSB 13.4s. The inside of the black circle is .190" vs a JSB 13.4 pellet being around 180.

"sharroff"By the way, here is the results of the experiment. I was playing around with the 'boat tailed' H&N 21g .177 piledriver. This was about as good as I could get 10 shots of H&N piledriver vs my reference 10 shots of JSB 13.4s. The inside of the black circle is .190" vs a JSB 13.4 pellet being around 180.

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Try them again in the mid 700s fps...

Percula,

26+ fpe, eh? If they stabilized from my gun, that would make a heck of a .177 hunting round, but I think that is too hot for FT or BR, right?

I figured this pellet would be a cylinder, but it is not. I'm measuring the heads around .1785 tapering down to .175 for the tail. Are their heads fitting your barrel even more tightly than 13.4s or do I have an odd tin?

They are fine for BR open and unlimited classes. 

Bull #2 is JSB 16gr at a power setting, bull #15 is JSB 16gr at a lower power setting, bull #19 is H&N Piledriver 21gr at 742fps -- all 5 shot groups at 50y on a calm day (those are 25m bulls)

Edit to add: I should say that I have since tuned the JSB 16gr to be tighter than is seen here. But I deleted the picture by mistake from my phone...

I don't understand how you can turn the power up and down if the gun is regulated. Doesn't the regulator regulate the pressure of air going into the barrel regardless of how heavy one turns up the hammer spring tension? I'm fairly new to this, so forgive me if this is obvious. 

Chas

Chasdicapua,

Typically, the regular sits between the full pressure of the bottle and a chamber in the gun. That chambers pressure is controlled by the regulator. That chamber is usually set at a lower pressure (say between 100 to 150 bar) versus the bottle's 200-250 bar. There is a spring that drives the firing mechanism into a valve that creates an opening between that chamber and the barrel. Depending on how that spring is compressed one can control how hard the valve is hit/how long it stays open. I could adjust the regulators, but it's way easier to turn the external cap that compresses the spring. 

I just read somewhere that adjusting the hammer spring doesn't have any effect on a regulated gun. But, proof is in the pudding. I'll check it out. If that is so, I'll be very happy. Thanks for explaining.