RAW 1000X LRT Chronograph Results
- Thread starter beeser
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Nice graph."beeser"Spent a little time today chronographing 80 consecutive shots out of my .25 RAW 1000X LRT. Initial fill pressure was 225 bar based on the Omega tank gauge. The final pressure shown on the RAW gauge was just over 100 bar. This is the first time I've chronographed anything. What if anything does the following graph of the results tell me? The chronograph was an Oehler 35P if it makes any difference.
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No graph. If you shot to 100 bar then several shots would be off the regulator. What was the first 50 average. 25.39 grain pellets?
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Image apparently got lost in the Cloud. I could see it from my end but apparently no one else could. It should be there now. Let me know if it isn't.
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The graph doesn't tell you anything on it's own, except that the current setting is probably not optimal with that pellet.
The point of recording the string is to see how consistent it is between shots and to identify the "sweet spot" for fill pressures and where you can shoot down to.
You could start by adjusting the HST a little up or down and trying another string to see if consistency improves.
If the gun is new, I would wait a while as new regulators sometimes need time to get broken in before performing at their best. If it was my gun, I wouldn't bother trying to adjust anything until it was broken in a little.
The string is not terrible as it is. I would just expect better from a regulated gun.
The point of recording the string is to see how consistent it is between shots and to identify the "sweet spot" for fill pressures and where you can shoot down to.
You could start by adjusting the HST a little up or down and trying another string to see if consistency improves.
If the gun is new, I would wait a while as new regulators sometimes need time to get broken in before performing at their best. If it was my gun, I wouldn't bother trying to adjust anything until it was broken in a little.
The string is not terrible as it is. I would just expect better from a regulated gun.
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The curve you show rises at the end. It should be flat at the end and drop off. That happens when the hammer spring tension is set two low, the valve return spring (if there is one in your system) is set too high, or the hammer itself is too light. The easiest thing to change in that situation is the spring tension on the hammer.
Starting at about shot forty it is apparent that the average velocity is climbing. If you adjust your hammer spring so that it strikes the valve a little harder you will cause your average velocity to start higher and stay higher in the earlier part of the string. That will flatten the curve at the later portion of the string. The end result is you will get the same number (or even more) shots at a higher average velocity than you are seeing in your first 40 as it is tuned right now. Just guessing but that gun with a very minimal bit of tweaking should be shooting (that pellet) 75 or 80 shots at an average velocity of 910 to 920 fps and an ES of about 15 to 20 fps.
You will achieve that by adding a bit of preload on the hammer spring tension.
Bob's your uncle: http://airgunguild.com/ask-bob/tuning-a-regulated-pcp/
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Beeser,
thanks for the info, its valuable for me as I am thinking about whether to get a 1000x in .22 or .25.
Noise and shotcount is important to me, as is weight and lenght.
Your data gave me insight in shotcount for .25.
what is the length of your barrel?
regards, Mike
thanks for the info, its valuable for me as I am thinking about whether to get a 1000x in .22 or .25.
Noise and shotcount is important to me, as is weight and lenght.
Your data gave me insight in shotcount for .25.
what is the length of your barrel?
regards, Mike
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Beeser..
With regards to shot count.. the 480cc bottles measure out much closer to 470cc. Does not sound like much but it accounts for several shots. The reduced velocity is more then likely due to the cooler weather and altitude. What I have seen over the last few years is that a loss of 15-20 fps is normal once it gets cold.
I also run an Oehler 35p and it not unusual to see a 5 to 10 fps difference in velocity from the factory setting. Keep in mind chronographs typically have a 0.5% accuracy of reading capability.. the Oehler 35p can do a bit better based on the distance you set the screens. (in this case you are talking about 4.6fps approx)...
Are you sorting your pellets?... Weight variance and head size also contribute to velicity spreed, and lastly.... Barrel cleanliness also plays a Big part in consistency....
Mark
RAW - Phx Office
With regards to shot count.. the 480cc bottles measure out much closer to 470cc. Does not sound like much but it accounts for several shots. The reduced velocity is more then likely due to the cooler weather and altitude. What I have seen over the last few years is that a loss of 15-20 fps is normal once it gets cold.
I also run an Oehler 35p and it not unusual to see a 5 to 10 fps difference in velocity from the factory setting. Keep in mind chronographs typically have a 0.5% accuracy of reading capability.. the Oehler 35p can do a bit better based on the distance you set the screens. (in this case you are talking about 4.6fps approx)...
Are you sorting your pellets?... Weight variance and head size also contribute to velicity spreed, and lastly.... Barrel cleanliness also plays a Big part in consistency....
Mark
RAW - Phx Office
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Shot to shot is not good. Get back with the fellow who sold you the gun and ask for his recommendations. A trip back to Tennessee is always an option.
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Ok...
Generally when choreographing, I set my Oehler about a foot infront of the muzzle....
The typical barrel length on the these guns is 24"s unless it is specified differently by the original customer...
For barrel cleaning... Use a "Pull Through" to thread it past the moderator use a drinking straw for 25 cal either a McD's or Starbucks works the best...or just the basic clear one...
Start by using "Tight.... DRY.. Cotton Patches", I usually roll up 2 or 2 1/2 patch that are 1.75 inches square. Experiment with this, start loose, but what you are looking for is a good tight fit. It should take a significant amount of force to pull the patch through. In my experience the tight dry patch does the best job of grabbing the debris.
Follow this with one or two sets of patches "MOISTENED" with WD40... the key is "MOIST" just spritz a bit of WD40 ... DON'T Soak it... what I have found is when you get the patch tightness right, the moist patches will "squeak" when you pull them through the barrel.... Follow this up with a dry patches until they pull through "Smooth".... you will be able to feel when your barrel is clean.... Now here is the important part.... Don't clean until the patches come out White... this means you have "Too Clean" a barrel. What you are looking for if for your last patch to be a slight gray color.....It will take more shots for the barrel to settle back down if its too clean...... AND.... NEVER use any Firearms cleaning solvents... the liquid can get down into the transfer port and potential damage the seals..... Just keep you barrel cleaning "Simple".. also all barrels are different, the guys here in Phx use various combinations of this.... but this is what seems to work best "Most" of the time...
For weight sorting just get a decent "tobacco scale", you can usually find one for about $100.00 that will resolve to .02 grains...(sorting to 0.1 gr is more then sufficient) Head sizing, I use a air gauge. For the most part 25's are pretty consistent.
Mark
RAW - Phx Office
Generally when choreographing, I set my Oehler about a foot infront of the muzzle....
The typical barrel length on the these guns is 24"s unless it is specified differently by the original customer...
For barrel cleaning... Use a "Pull Through" to thread it past the moderator use a drinking straw for 25 cal either a McD's or Starbucks works the best...or just the basic clear one...
Start by using "Tight.... DRY.. Cotton Patches", I usually roll up 2 or 2 1/2 patch that are 1.75 inches square. Experiment with this, start loose, but what you are looking for is a good tight fit. It should take a significant amount of force to pull the patch through. In my experience the tight dry patch does the best job of grabbing the debris.
Follow this with one or two sets of patches "MOISTENED" with WD40... the key is "MOIST" just spritz a bit of WD40 ... DON'T Soak it... what I have found is when you get the patch tightness right, the moist patches will "squeak" when you pull them through the barrel.... Follow this up with a dry patches until they pull through "Smooth".... you will be able to feel when your barrel is clean.... Now here is the important part.... Don't clean until the patches come out White... this means you have "Too Clean" a barrel. What you are looking for if for your last patch to be a slight gray color.....It will take more shots for the barrel to settle back down if its too clean...... AND.... NEVER use any Firearms cleaning solvents... the liquid can get down into the transfer port and potential damage the seals..... Just keep you barrel cleaning "Simple".. also all barrels are different, the guys here in Phx use various combinations of this.... but this is what seems to work best "Most" of the time...
For weight sorting just get a decent "tobacco scale", you can usually find one for about $100.00 that will resolve to .02 grains...(sorting to 0.1 gr is more then sufficient) Head sizing, I use a air gauge. For the most part 25's are pretty consistent.
Mark
RAW - Phx Office
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I just did a search for "air gauge" as it has to do with pellets and this is what came up. Pleeeze tell me that this isn't required.
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