Sampler pack +1! Also look into the "artillery hold." Springers are very hold sensitive, mostly due to the double recoil (rearward first, the forward, then the pellet leaves the muzzle). Consistency in your hold is the key to closing up those groups. Also watch out for "scope walk." This is when the recoil of your gun causes the scope mounts and scope to move, changing your zero. I mark my scopes with a permanent marker on both sides of the scope ring caps, as well as in front of and behind the scope ring bases. This makes it easier to see when the scope shifts. Try it, you might be surprised how much this equipment moves.
I suggest a one piece mount like this:
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/RWS_Lock_Down_1_Pc_Mount_w_1_Rings_11mm_Dovetail_Barrel_Droop_Compensation/2406
...or especially this (what I use on my NPs):
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/UTG_Drooper_Scope_Rail_11mm_to_Weaver_Adapter_Compensates_for_Droop_Stops_Scope_Shift/4191
Both solidly mount your scope, and have substantial "droop compensation," which really helps a lot.
And here is "the Godfather" with a few words about the Artillary hold:
sorry, forgot about the noise: most likely just excess lube burning off. It often takes several (sometimes 50 plus, usually a lot less) shots for a springer to stop burning lube (called dieseling). Also clean the barrel. Lower end guns often come with absolutely filthy barrels. The dirty barrel will most certainly cause accuracy issues (most say they know when to clean their airgun barrel when their accuracy starts to suffer). While the gun is still dieseling, it wouldn't hurt to run a patch thru the barrel every ten shots or so, just until the black, greasy residue stops coming out. Once the barrel doesn't foul, and the gun stops cracking, you'll know the excess lube is gone. When I rebuild a springer, I usually put twenty or so pellets thru it in my garage before it stops dieseling. After 100 plus shots, the gun will begin to settle down and break in. This is where groups will really start to tighten up. Don't give up, just keep shooting and practicing. Springers take a while to learn/master.
I suggest a one piece mount like this:
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/RWS_Lock_Down_1_Pc_Mount_w_1_Rings_11mm_Dovetail_Barrel_Droop_Compensation/2406
...or especially this (what I use on my NPs):
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/UTG_Drooper_Scope_Rail_11mm_to_Weaver_Adapter_Compensates_for_Droop_Stops_Scope_Shift/4191
Both solidly mount your scope, and have substantial "droop compensation," which really helps a lot.
And here is "the Godfather" with a few words about the Artillary hold:
sorry, forgot about the noise: most likely just excess lube burning off. It often takes several (sometimes 50 plus, usually a lot less) shots for a springer to stop burning lube (called dieseling). Also clean the barrel. Lower end guns often come with absolutely filthy barrels. The dirty barrel will most certainly cause accuracy issues (most say they know when to clean their airgun barrel when their accuracy starts to suffer). While the gun is still dieseling, it wouldn't hurt to run a patch thru the barrel every ten shots or so, just until the black, greasy residue stops coming out. Once the barrel doesn't foul, and the gun stops cracking, you'll know the excess lube is gone. When I rebuild a springer, I usually put twenty or so pellets thru it in my garage before it stops dieseling. After 100 plus shots, the gun will begin to settle down and break in. This is where groups will really start to tighten up. Don't give up, just keep shooting and practicing. Springers take a while to learn/master.
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